GL1000/1100/1200 Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel 32DFT Progressive Runs Excellent - Page 6 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #51 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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I noticed that while riding on my Rock driveway, it has a good amount of rock it is a about a 200ft long drive way, I need to be very cautious with the throttle, with this new Single carb. conversion, as it is torquey.

It had no problem getting the rear tire loose.

Some pics
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File Type: jpg P1020004 1 comp 100k.jpg (44.7 KB, 145 views)
File Type: jpg P1020005 1 comp 77k.jpg (47.3 KB, 159 views)
File Type: jpg P1020009 1 comp77k.jpg (46.2 KB, 153 views)
File Type: jpg P1020010 1 comp77k.jpg (41.9 KB, 151 views)
File Type: jpg P1020011 1 comp 77k.jpg (48.1 KB, 161 views)
File Type: jpg P1020012 1 Comp 77k.jpg (49.7 KB, 160 views)

Current Bikes,
1983 GL1100 72K 32DFT Single 2-bbl Progressive Carb, and Runs Excellent,
1984 GL1200A 55K Reverse Trike Project, Single 2bbl. Progressive carb
1986 GL1200 Interstate, Now Naked, She just turned 43K
1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey 2-bbl SCC Trike Mustang GT Rearend, Rear Disc Brakes, HD Mufflers
2005 Burgman 650 20K
07' M109R 1855 miles 130hp 120ft lb torque Reverse Trike 99' Miata front suspension
2013 Honda NC700X 4k, AVG 77.68mpg
2015 Valkyrie, 4K miles Hot rod, Excellent bike
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post #52 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 02:44 AM
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West, I just want to clarify exactly what our 32DFT is.

It is a: Weber 32 DFTA-1

The DFT is all but USA.
The DFTA designates it as a USA-specific carburetor (A as in America)
The DFTA-1 designates it as a FORD-specific carburetor (-1 as in Motorcraft)

Ford requires it as a Motorcraft product because it is not manufactured by them.
Motorcraft gives it the model designation - 740

It was manufactured by Carter under Webers patent rights (and partial ownership) using their 32DFT patent, specifically for Ford and their vehicles and has a additional vacuum port because of it, for a total of three vac ports.
Additional bolt-ons make up the difference between the DFT and the DFTA or DFTA-1.

Any and All WEBER 32DFT literature is applicable to this Motorcraft 740 carburetor.

Haynes "Weber Carburetors" lists the carburetor in chapter 10 which includes the 32 DFT, DFTA and DFTA-1 (aka: our Motorcraft 740)
I have it in .pdf for D/L

Carter has no designation for the carburetor. Carter was a partnered company during this era, hence "Carter/Weber" amongst others.

The throat entrances of both venturi's are 32mm (as you've accurately measured)
The chokes of both venturi's are 22mm (as embossed on the carburetor body pic'd below)
The circled 1 says it's a DFTA-1 (also below)

This small 22mm choke size makes this carburetor perform as it does.
_____________________

FWIW - Page 22 of the manual shows where to block off the chokes base plate signal. Block that port opening and you'll have to do nothing up at the opening between the three screws where the choke housing use to be.
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post #53 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Hey CM85

That is some good info.

you say you have the Haynes "Weber Carburetors" lists the carburetor in chapter 10 which includes the 32 DFT, DFTA and DFTA-1 (aka: our Motorcraft 740)
I have it in .pdf for D/L

I would like to down load this info.

to be able to see Page 22 of the manual that shows where to block off the chokes base plate signal. Block that port opening so I'll have to do nothing up at the opening between the three screws where the choke housing use to be.

Current Bikes,
1983 GL1100 72K 32DFT Single 2-bbl Progressive Carb, and Runs Excellent,
1984 GL1200A 55K Reverse Trike Project, Single 2bbl. Progressive carb
1986 GL1200 Interstate, Now Naked, She just turned 43K
1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey 2-bbl SCC Trike Mustang GT Rearend, Rear Disc Brakes, HD Mufflers
2005 Burgman 650 20K
07' M109R 1855 miles 130hp 120ft lb torque Reverse Trike 99' Miata front suspension
2013 Honda NC700X 4k, AVG 77.68mpg
2015 Valkyrie, 4K miles Hot rod, Excellent bike
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post #54 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 08:41 AM
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All I did for that opening behind the electric choke was run a screw back in there and my carb s working perfect.
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post #55 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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I built a block off plate, for mine.

The screw idea sounds, good, i did not know that hole was threaded.

I checked mine for vacuum leaks when i got it started, a couple of times,

on all parts of the new system and also this vacuum port area,

by spraying starting fluid at every part including new Hose connections, base of carb, to see if there was any engine RPM speed up or slow down in engine RPM's.

There are no leaks.

But Knowledge is good, since this carb is on my bike, And I like it.

I would like to know as much as possible, about it, it may help me some day.

Current Bikes,
1983 GL1100 72K 32DFT Single 2-bbl Progressive Carb, and Runs Excellent,
1984 GL1200A 55K Reverse Trike Project, Single 2bbl. Progressive carb
1986 GL1200 Interstate, Now Naked, She just turned 43K
1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey 2-bbl SCC Trike Mustang GT Rearend, Rear Disc Brakes, HD Mufflers
2005 Burgman 650 20K
07' M109R 1855 miles 130hp 120ft lb torque Reverse Trike 99' Miata front suspension
2013 Honda NC700X 4k, AVG 77.68mpg
2015 Valkyrie, 4K miles Hot rod, Excellent bike
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post #56 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel in Tank, was approx. 4-6 months Old, and was Not fresh gas.

I did have some Stabil in the gas, But I am not sure how good of a job that does, and i dont like to rely on that.

I also had about 4 ounces of ATF in the gas, I trust AFT more than Stabil for keeping gas fresh

another Really good gas stabilizer is the blue stuff,

I like this one the best, out of store bought stuff,
Star brite® Star Tron® - Enzyme Fuel Treatment

I think this is better than Stabil, just my Opinion though

I ran out of the "Star brite® Star Tron® - Enzyme Fuel Treatment" and had to use what i had.

I think I am down to a half tank

I will fill it up with some fresh Premium gas, this morning.

It Ran really good yesterday even though the gas was not fresh

Current Bikes,
1983 GL1100 72K 32DFT Single 2-bbl Progressive Carb, and Runs Excellent,
1984 GL1200A 55K Reverse Trike Project, Single 2bbl. Progressive carb
1986 GL1200 Interstate, Now Naked, She just turned 43K
1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey 2-bbl SCC Trike Mustang GT Rearend, Rear Disc Brakes, HD Mufflers
2005 Burgman 650 20K
07' M109R 1855 miles 130hp 120ft lb torque Reverse Trike 99' Miata front suspension
2013 Honda NC700X 4k, AVG 77.68mpg
2015 Valkyrie, 4K miles Hot rod, Excellent bike
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post #57 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 10:56 AM
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I'll have to put chapter 10 of the Haynes manual on my Google drive.
I've taken down my web pages, so this is how I'll be shuffling manuals until I get my new site up and running.

The Ford manual (page 22) shows where to plug the base port opening. The choke vacuum is tested at the bottom of the base and is shown on that page. It doesn't matter how the vacuum is stopped. Any of the ways we're doing seem to work. A lead plug there would keep fabricating labor to a minimum. Rob's screw approach is even simpler. I went with the o-ring and bracket for the manual choke conversion. As you are finding out, actually choking the carb for a easy start is not necessary anyway. Who would believe it? ...so I made the mount.

I'll try and get the relevant Haynes chapter up soon and post the link to it as before.

As for the icing issue I experience, I'm fairly certain you'll have to wait for colder weather to experience it yourself. You'll know it is happening when stumbling and hesitation rears its ugly head. As I've tried to explain, heating the manifold does little, if any, good in preventing it. It is not a manifold issue. A heated manifold tract helps greatly in trying to defeat the effects of it though. The small choke size is the physical contributor.
Heating the carburetor body, heating the inlet air or heating the fuel attempts to prevent the icing. I heat the intake air and will be heating the fuel before winter hits.
If you won't be riding in near-freezing temps, then you may not find much issue with it. My experience with the icing was consistent. On the road, ...it would happen under high vacuum conditions such as sitting at a red light. Upon take-off it would stumble bad. If cruising with low RPM it would form as vacuum would stabilize to the higher side when load would go to a minimum and hesitation would happen when throttled up.
Wide Open Throttle (hitting the secondary momentarily) would clear the ice enough to get drivability back ...temporarily.
Some form of carburetor, NOT manifold, heat is required supplemental to manifold heat to combat the icing issue THAT I HAVE. You guys may have a different experience based on where you live. Southern latitudes may not see much at all. Northwest from the center of the Country and northern latitudes may see it frequently and consistently.
I don't know how else to describe the icing issue. If experienced it is an easy fix to add radiator waste heat to the carb through a air filter housing and some simple ducting. It doesn't take a lot of heat, but it does take whatever it takes for the worst conditions you plan to experience after whatever initial experience presents itself.
Again, stumbling and hesitation are the giveaways that ice is forming, ...not carburetor malfunction.

You guys are doing great. Keep up the work and pass it along as best you can. Teamwork is not my strong-point.
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post #58 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 11:38 AM
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Depending on your rides are designed and if feasible to bring heated header air up via ducting.

You can do like what every carb equipped car had and that was a vacuum operated hot air door closed to draw up header heat, which the 1500 has.

Bi metal spring vacuum switch in air cleaner housing.

J.D.

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post #59 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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That is what i was thinking.

Currently I have Removed the steel Radiator Heat shield cover,

That is in between the Radiator and the Engine,

Installed the upper motor mounts Braces & cross brace only.

This allows the Heat from the radiator a straight shot to the carb intake.

I have put a switch on the Radiator fan, If i run into a freeze situation,

flip a toggle switch to turn the fan on ride with fan on for the short cold mornings runs.

But some exhaust header heat, would be a good way to do it.
Like VW and 914 Porsche do.

Current Bikes,
1983 GL1100 72K 32DFT Single 2-bbl Progressive Carb, and Runs Excellent,
1984 GL1200A 55K Reverse Trike Project, Single 2bbl. Progressive carb
1986 GL1200 Interstate, Now Naked, She just turned 43K
1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey 2-bbl SCC Trike Mustang GT Rearend, Rear Disc Brakes, HD Mufflers
2005 Burgman 650 20K
07' M109R 1855 miles 130hp 120ft lb torque Reverse Trike 99' Miata front suspension
2013 Honda NC700X 4k, AVG 77.68mpg
2015 Valkyrie, 4K miles Hot rod, Excellent bike
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post #60 of 1299 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverRider View Post
Depending on your rides are designed and if feasible to bring heated header air up via ducting.

You can do like what every carb equipped car had and that was a vacuum operated hot air door closed to draw up header heat, which the 1500 has.

Bi metal spring vacuum switch in air cleaner housing.
I've based my current intake air pre-heating loosely on VW's scheme, which is what you've mentioned.
VW/Porsche haves a diverter/flapper box that I'm also using for reference.
Exhaust heat is a good source but not easily piped to a intake once my fairing lowers are in place. There's a nice "cool" factor in its looks, just not easily done. I've found it easier to get it from the radiator.

I'm now (as time permits) experimenting with a remote oil cooler whose sole purpose would be to heat the intake air. Once I get all of the correct parts I will go this route permanently.

Lots of options in getting it done. Some snowmobile manufacturers heat the carb bodies via coolant. Not much we can do with that, but I know why they do it...
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