VW Type IV Manifold and Tom's Carter/Weber 32DFT... - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Southern California
Model: 79 GL1000
Posts: 9
VW Type IV Manifold and Tom's Carter/Weber 32DFT...

I figured I'd start my own thread as I didn't want to confuse myself, or anyone else, by posting in the monster thread...

I have a '79 GL1000, and the commensurate carby problems. I am going to convert my bike into a "single carb" bike. I think I know I want the 32DFT and the Type IV VW manifold (source for the carb here: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/sto...uct/id=1222026 , and for the manifold here: http://www.jbugs.com/product/3241.ht...kage-manifolds ).

I'd like some advice as to what to use for the runners. I want to use WestGL's original plan of rubber or silicone runners in order to keep the conversion as simple as possible, and I do not want to modify the stock runners... So hopefully I can get WestGL to chime in

I'll also need to do something about the throttle linkage, though it seems like a very basic bracket on the right side of the bike might work.

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1979 GL1000, White, Exhaust, Dyna S Ignition
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 03:05 PM
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Arvada, Colorado, USA
Model: 83 Aspencade
Posts: 111
RhinoWing, I'll be watching your thread closely. I'm working on the same process, 1983 Gl1100A. On the runners, I think Capt. Midnight has tested quite a few different scenarios, and he advocates the 1in steel runners. I'm going to start with that. On the throttle linkage, it appears to me that a lot of guys have opted for the Uni-link, so I went ahead and ordered one.

The big challenge, as far as I can see, is adding the heat properly, as advocated by Tom Langdon. I'm working on a couple of adaptors that would fit into the water system, adding hot water to an exchanger welded to the bottom of the manifold. To build these fittings and the heat exchanger, I bought two four-foot sections of aluminum pipe from Online Metals, and a spare set of water pipes and stock connections that fit on top of the motor. My plan is to adapt the piece directly behind the thermostat, either through welding or through drilling and tapping it, and fitting a hose to that connector. That hose will then feed the input side of the welded heat exchanger, followed by an output to the standard connector (appropriately modified) that sits between the spark plugs. Capt Midnight has a few photos of his solution, and I'm going to copy it, with the exception of the bent pipe (I don't have a bender), and I'm going to push water through the heat exchanger, not balance it as Capt Midnight did. We'll see if I can figure out the welding side of this whole equation. Post pictures as you go, I'd like to learn from others experience, rather than reinvent the wheel, so to speak. Thx!!

1983 Goldwing Aspencade (completed restoration, daily rider)
2001 Shadow Tourer VT1100T (sold it, very sad day)
1982 Goldwing interstate (completed restoration, sold)
1998 Valkyrie Standard (sold, so sad)
1982 Goldwing Aspencade (completed restoration, sold)
1987 Goldwing Aspencade (completed restoration, sold)
2002 Shadow Spirit VT1100
1998 Shadow Spirit VT1100
1986 Magna V65
1885 Saber V65
1978 CB750
1972 Yamaha TX650
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-07-2015, 08:00 AM
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Silo'd in SD, USA
Posts: 12,287
I use runner tubing that is the same size as the factory's throttle bore.
The factory throttle valves fit within my runners perfectly.
That is the size that I use.

Heat is mandatory with any manifold using a plenum.
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