GL1000 SCC tuning issues - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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GL1000 SCC tuning issues

I would love some advice from you guys on my 1000 SCC. I have the manifold off ebay with the square tubing plenum and a Chinese 34 pict 3 carb. I have been trying to tune it correctly to no avail. It has a 127 and 55 jet. The bike will crank with a slight coaxing of the throttle and will idle a little but surges and generally, once the fast idle cam goes off, it will die after a few seconds of idle and only crank back up with the throttle cracked open. The bypass screw, which I've read is the idle control, has no affect on the idle at all. I read through ob1quixote's post about tuning and tried to use that method but the bypass not doing anything really throws me off. also, the volume screw seems pretty loose at 2 1/2 turns out. Thanks in advance for any help!


P.S. My friend wants me to trade him for a 1500 he just acquired that has 130k on it and runs good but a little rough on idle. Not sure I want to, just because it not a pretty bike at all with its faded maroon paint and my 1000 is beautiful with wrapped cobra pipes, diamond stitched seat, and cherry red paint, but I could at least ride it. 45k on my bike but havent ever really ridden it because of the carb issues its always had. The 15 looks pretty good in the pic but the plastics on the other side are faded to pink. Any opinions on that?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 05:47 PM
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Trade and don't look back.
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Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 06:47 PM
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Question: When you installed that Vetter fairing and removed the original turn signals, did you move the front turn signals to the rear....?? So you could have amber running lights on the rear of the bike. That would considerably increase your visibility on the rear....!

Go for the GL1500, don't be concerned about the 130k miles. I have 222k on a GL1500 that runs GREAT...!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkWing Duck View Post
I would love some advice from you guys on my 1000 SCC. I have the manifold off ebay with the square tubing plenum and a Chinese 34 pict 3 carb. I have been trying to tune it correctly to no avail. It has a 127 and 55 jet. The bike will crank with a slight coaxing of the throttle and will idle a little but surges and generally, once the fast idle cam goes off, it will die after a few seconds of idle and only crank back up with the throttle cracked open. The bypass screw, which I've read is the idle control, has no affect on the idle at all. I read through ob1quixote's post about tuning and tried to use that method but the bypass not doing anything really throws me off. also, the volume screw seems pretty loose at 2 1/2 turns out. Thanks in advance for any help!


P.S. My friend wants me to trade him for a 1500 he just acquired that has 130k on it and runs good but a little rough on idle. Not sure I want to, just because it not a pretty bike at all with its faded maroon paint and my 1000 is beautiful with wrapped cobra pipes, diamond stitched seat, and cherry red paint, but I could at least ride it. 45k on my bike but havent ever really ridden it because of the carb issues its always had. The 15 looks pretty good in the pic but the plastics on the other side are faded to pink. Any opinions on that?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBohrer View Post
Question: When you installed that Vetter fairing and removed the original turn signals, did you move the front turn signals to the rear....?? So you could have amber running lights on the rear of the bike. That would considerably increase your visibility on the rear....!

Go for the GL1500, don't be concerned about the 130k miles. I have 222k on a GL1500 that runs GREAT...!!

The fairing was already on it when I got it along with vetter bags(both broken) and trunk. I took the bags and trunk off.


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 04:47 PM
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The idle problem sound like the throttle plate may not be set correctly. Also, those eBay carbs are hit or miss. I got lucky and got one that works.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 04:55 PM
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I would have traded before he had a chance to back out.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
Trade and don't look back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBohrer View Post
Go for the GL1500, don't be concerned about the 130k miles. I have 222k on a GL1500 that runs GREAT...!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveO430 View Post
I would have traded before he had a chance to back out.

Alright folks, since I didn't get any real info on what my problem could be, I agreed to do the trade! I'll be the proud owner of an ugly 1500 tomorrow. He threw a few extras in with the deal that sweetened it up. One being a 185s Three wheeler. Gotta love an old Honda!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 01:45 AM
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you got the best end of the deal.

after one long ride, you won't even remember 'the ugly' at all.
it will shine with new pride in your ride.

worst case, spray the plastics with Rhino Liner for a nice overall textured surface.

~ John


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 04:53 PM
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I am at a 132.5 main jet and a 50 idle jet. Electric choke disconnected and adjusted to be completely open at all times.

Once fully warm, I get a nice idle just a touch over 1Krpm.


I am also running heated manifolds thermostatic controlled to turn off at 90 degrees, and insulated them including the coolant crossover tube to take advantage of the free heat and turn off the manifold heaters {2 pair of grip warmers}


Will be checking mpg this weekend. Was at a solid 35mpg in local highway, city and secondary roads {no interstate}



Next will be to mess with the WOT circuit jet, come to a final decision on the main jet size, install a manual choke to help out with the warming up phase.


Running like a rocketship.


I could give you exact screw turns, applicable for sea level.


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