Synthetic Oil and Gear Oil - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2005, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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With 70,000 miles on my 1986 GW1200 Aspencade do I dare change to Synthetic's any commemts appriciated.. Larry

86GL1200A Two tone Blue
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2005, 07:03 AM
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I don't know what lubricants were used for the first 42,000 miles on my 85 Wing.

However, I use Shell Rotella 5W-40 synthetic, and everything is fine.

TOJ

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2005, 07:23 AM
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Do a search on this site for "synthetic oil".. There are about 6 pages of good info regarding comments on what oil to use.. The rear differential takes any standard 80/90 gear lube, but there are many many discussions on engine oil..

I don't use synthetic oil in my 86 Aspy, however, it's a matter of personal preference.. I believe you can safely change over to synthetic from fossil, but there is concern about whether you can go back to fossil once using synthetic.. When these bikes were built, there was no synthetic oil readily available, and Honda had it's own recommended fossil type. I believe all oils are fossil based, but the additives and manufacturing process makes them "synthetic".

Good luck and do plenty of reading on this very touchy subject...

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2005, 07:25 AM
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After owning over 50 bikes and being part of nearly as many forums and participating in about as many oil threads I promised myself I'd never weigh in again. Oh well. My engineering experience has allowed ME to come to this conclusion about oil for bikes.

Change oil/filter at or more often than owners manual indicates
Use a brand name oil in recommended weight range (make sure to avoid the "energy conserving" oils usually only available in the lighter weights anyway). I usually recommend the old SG rated oils if you can find them. I think valvoline sells a reasonably priced SG bike oil.
Use the OEM or equiv filter

Anything better than the above (high grade filters, more often changes, synth blends or full synth) will Probably extend the life of your engine and/or transmission, by who knows how much.

What do I do?

Mobil 1 (or more recently the Shell Rotella T 5w/40), automotive filter equivalent, changes about every 4K.

Each to his own - that's part of what makes this so much fun!





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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2005, 08:29 AM
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Hi folks,

I have een using synthetic oil,(Mobil1) since it came out. I used Mobil1 in a1989 1500 wing when it had about 40,000 miles on it.

I use Mobil1 in a Dodge Caravan since it had 1,000 miles on it. I bought a Ford F150 with 148,000 miles on it, and switched over to Mobil 1. I also used it in a '93 4 cyl. jeep that I bought when it had 77,000 miles . I sold it when it had 130,000 miles.

The reason I use Shell Rotella in my Goldwing are mainly to see how it would be any different than Mobil1, and many Goldwing owners use and recomend it.

TOJ

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2005, 10:45 PM
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There was dino oil in my 1200 when I got it. I wanted to try Amsoil so I had that in the bike for three oil changes when I decided the stuff was too expensive and went back to DELO 400. Never had any problems or leaks.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2005, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Amsoil is what i have been using in my cars and lawnmowers for the past 25 years. That is what I will put in my 86GWA when i change.. Larry

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2005, 11:30 AM
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leolarry wrote:
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Amsoil is what i have been using in my cars and lawnmowers for the past 25 years. That is what I will put in my 86GWA when i change.. Larry
I think it's good stuff, just a bit rich for my budget.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2005, 01:27 PM
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leolarry wrote:
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Amsoil is what i have been using in my cars and lawnmowers for the past 25 years. That is what I will put in my 86GWA when i change.. Larry
leolarry, the Amsoil will work just fine in your Wing.. They make a couple of very fine motorcycle oils in both 10W40 & 20W50.. If the weather is fairly mild & you don't ride when the temp gets much below 30°F the 20W50 will give you a quieter engine for a longer time than 10W40 & will definitely be quieter than the Dino oils after 1500 miles of use.. (most Dino 10W40 oils will shear down to 10W20 or even lower by 1500-2000 miles)

At the moment I use that 20W50 Amsoil in mine since Mobil 1 changed their 15W50 formula about 10 months ago. (have had real good results with Mobil 1 15W50 prior the change but can't get all the tec data on the new formula so lacking data I made the change to Amsoil)

I run the synthetics all year (About 10,000-15,000 miles March-December) & when tested at 4000 miles the 20W50 Amsoil showed a 20W40 viscosity with little degradation of the oil. I personally like to change when the viscosity shears down to 20W35 so have a test sample out for testing at the moment at a little over 8500 miles.. I usually change the oil filter at about 3000 miles but the last one I cut open at 3100 miles using the 20W50 Amsoil showed almost no metal particles (from trans shifting) so will probably go to 4000 on the next filter. It's looking like the current 8500 miles might be a safe limit on the Amsoil so that would be 2 changes per summer. I'm waiting on the oil testing results but will probably drop the oil & filter anyhow. I ALWAYS install fresh oil before winter storage (no engine start-up, just crank up oil pressure after the new oil is installed) so it's looking like 2 changes per riding season will work for me. Probably could do without the oil testing, when I start hearing the valve lifters clattering the oil has probably sheared to under 10W25 weight hot so should be replaced even if the additive package is still holding up..

Twisty

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2005, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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I have been a dealer for about 25 years so i do get a break on it..

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