After long downtime, what should I expect - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-08-2005, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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I'm new here. Just bought an '85 GL1200 from the 2nd owner. He had been a regular tour rider so ran up to 104k on the odometer, but kept it in he garage and kept it up until about 4 years ago when he parked it. No prep for storage, just parked it.

My own wrenching history is open: The last bike I had was a CB750 I rebuilt from the basket it came in, so I'm willing to tackle almost anything.....depending.

Okay. What I got was everything looking sharp. I have redone some of the light sockets that had rusted out, checked the wires etc. as suggested in other threads here for the stator safety (a new stator was put on about5 years ago -- call it 6,000 mi). It ran rough as a washing machine but it looks like pulling down the entire fuel system and cleaning/rebuilding/tuning may have solved that one (90% -- still has a hickup at 1500rpm).

I know I need to replace the timing belts, still need to change the oil and fluids etc.

BUT, Clymer and Honda talk about replacing all flex lines at 24, miles. These look solid but according to the PO have never been replaced. How serious a threat is that? Are they going to blow or leak soon as I replace the hydraulic fluid?

What else is liable to cause a headache (or worse) on a bike of this vintage with this history? I haven't the money or time to take it all the way down and restore, so I'm looking for triage to keep it rolling for about 6 months of commuting before I can get to the big pieces?

Oh, yeah. New battery, all lights work (finally!), tires are good -- just replaced about 5k miles ago and garaged (and they look it), shocks hold air at the rated pressures until I let it out, compression is about 145 with and without oil in the cylinders, timing is on the mark judging by static timing, no vibrations or etc. giving fits.





Appreciate any tips or suggestions.




Du Blue Buffalo
1985 GL1200i
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-08-2005, 07:59 PM
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Hi,

Well in my case my 83 1100 had been garaged for a few years as well. Definitely replace the brake fluid...as for the lines that seems to be a case-by-case call. My brakes seemed to work okay, but I replaced the pads, rebuilt the calipers, drained and bled the system...all to find out that the front right line was completely occluded. Of course, that was the only year on any bike that that specific line was used (the first year of the linked braking, IIRC), and I couldn't find a replacement and couldn't clear the clog. Not to mention the fact that the other two calipers didn't seem as "tight" as they should be, due to expansion of the rubber hoses when engaging the brakes. I found a stainless steel braided set for $100 and bit the bullet. In my opinion it isn't worthtrusting 20 year old rubber, especially when it's a life or death type part.

Speaking of rubber, please don't fall into the same sense of false security that I did. The PO told me that the tires were brand new when put on, and had just a few hundred miles on them. I looked at them, and sure enough, they looked great. I rode for two months along the back mountain roads of Gatlinburg, 60 miles one way to work, when one very brisk morning I had the front tire blow just as I entered a "cliff corner" at 40 miles an hour. I survived with very minor injuries, as did my Wing, but my friend at the local Honda shop informed me that the tire was just too old - it's rubber had lost its integrity.

I for one would not trust any tire on a cycle if it sat around for a few years, subjected to the weight of the bike, no motion to rejuvenate the rubber's integrity, and just plain age and dry rot. I truly think it's worth the $200 or so to avoid what COULD happen.

Other than that - oil, definitely the final drive fluid, and other such things.

Just my two cents -

Jack

1983 GL1100 Interstate

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-08-2005, 11:44 PM
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Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Internet Dave!

Glad to hear about your new ride, get her in shape and it'll be the best ride you've ever had if you like to pile the miles on. As for the brake lines, a lot depends on the weather they've been exposed to and the the condition of the rubber. If they look okay, haven't hardened up and don't show any checking and if they don't seem to balloon under pressure, I'd keep using them.

If you don't know when the timing belts have been changed, do it soon. A belt failure is expensive. You can get belts from NAPA for your bike it's a NAPA 250070. Much cheaper than Honda. Change all the fluids, brake, coolant (use only non-silicate antifreeze), and rear drive. Check battery fluid level.

Take a look at the connector with the three yellow wires that comes out of the stator housing, it's located just below the battery on the left. If there's any sign of heating, melting or metal discoloring, cut the connector out and splice the wires. There's lots of info on this on the forum, to a search in the box at the top of the page for 'yellow wires', 'stator',or 'splice' and you will find lots of stuff.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-09-2005, 12:18 AM
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second that on replacing the tires. also maybe change the fork oil. there are drains on the fork legs, I would use fork oil instead of atf. and what they said.

87 GL1200 Interstate(reborn
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-09-2005, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. I was forgetting the rear drive oil change, but that could be kinda a bit important, I bet, couldn't it?

Will definitely attend to the tires and other safety tips you've mentioned. Been too many years since I did any serious 2-wheelin, so I gotta get my brain back in gear!



Du Blue Buffalo
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-01-2005, 02:18 AM
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Dave, the biggest headache will be the fuel system. Probably gummed up carbs. A fules system cleaner might get it most of the way clean, as a last resort you will end up stripping the carbs.

Ted Kelly.
Current Wings; 2006 GL1800 & 1997 GL1500se.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-03-2005, 10:07 AM
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Probably bad gas by now, and definitely fork oil will be useless at this stage.


Lucky Eddie.
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