1984 gl1200 clutch slipping - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-31-2006, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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hope someone can help

i have an 84 gl1200a. slips when warm...changed fibers and steels,rebuilt master cylinder...replaced slave cylinder...bledd system many times...flushed system

driving me nuts....any ideas as to why it still slips
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-31-2006, 06:36 AM
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gwrider wrote:
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hope someone can help

i have an 84 gl1200a. slips when warm...changed fibers and steels,rebuilt master cylinder...replaced slave cylinder...bledd system many times...flushed system

driving me nuts....any ideas as to why it still slips
Gwrider, when does your clutch slip?.. All gears?.. Under full power only?.. At high speeds only?.. You say warm, does that mean it doesn't slip when cold?

It could be anything in your clutch system from a worn clutch basket (notches in the basket sides),, to a weak spring (did you check that when apart?),, to pressure build-up in the master/slave cylinder system..

With your slipping problem only happening warm (hot) that usually points to pressure build up in the clutch hydraulic system.. You could have a master cylinder not allowing the take up port to uncover when hot, clutch lever or push rod not correct or not allowing the master cylinder piston to return fully.. Could be a problem in the clutch itself (probably should slip cold also if a problem there but you never know)..

Have you tried riding the bike until hot & the clutch slips,, then opening the lower slave cylinder bleeder & seeing if excess pressure/fluid comes out.. If so then ride the bike again without using the clutch & seeing if it still slips?

While I haven't ever seen it happen with a hydraulic clutch I have seen a brake hose internal liner problem that would allow the inner liner of the brake hose to trap brake fluid pressure & cause a brake to drag hot.. (long shot but possible)..

If you could remove your clutch bleed screw,, then obtain another bleeder screw & drill a small hole in the slave side end (to allow fluid to pass).. Then braze on a pipe thread fitting you could then hook a pressure gauge to your slave cylinder & see if your system is trapping fluid pressure when hot.. That would at least tell you if your problem is clutch plate/basket related or hydraulic pressure related..

Twisty

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-31-2006, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for replying...

yes when it starts to slip...any gear any speed....i crack the bleeder,then it works perfect...and yes when i did the clutch also replaced the spring.sure its not the actual clutch...must me a pressure build up like you said.....will also check the hose. thank you for responding...any other advice would be great

thanks again....gwrider
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-31-2006, 08:16 AM
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gwrider wrote:
Quote:
thanks for replying...

yes when it starts to slip...any gear any speed....i crack the bleeder,then it works perfect...and yes when i did the clutch also replaced the spring.sure its not the actual clutch...must me a pressure build up like you said.....will also check the hose. thank you for responding...any other advice would be great

thanks again....gwrider
Gwrider, OK, it sounds likea pressure build problem.. Make sure the clutch lever is correct for the bike & that the master cylinder piston if fully retracting out to the stop.. There is a take-up port in the master cylinder that MUST become open when the clutch lever is fully released or pressure build will occur..

That take-up port is small & drilled through the floor of the fluid reservoir into the rear top of the master cylinder piston bore.. (you can see it with the fluid removed).. If you were able to bleed the clutch it was at least open at that time.



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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-31-2006, 04:21 PM
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Sure sounds like a master cylinderthat's not venting the fluid back into the reservoir to me. Probably the best bet would to take it apart install a kit. If the clutch was old enough to need work it wouldn't hurt to take care of the other end. I don't know if the clutch master has the two small holes between the reservoir and the cylinder bore like the brake does becausesmaller of the two holes is very small on the front brake master and can plug up easily.

One other possibility is to loosen the reservoir lid and see if that makes a difference. The reservoir has to vent to the atmosphere to make room for the fluid coming back up the hose from the clutch slave. It has the diaphragm between the fluid and the atmospheric air but the top side of the diaphragm under the cap has to be vented. If that didn't happen it's possible to build up pressure in the reservoir which might be enough to hold the clutch in a bit.



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Past 'Wings: GL1100, GL1200, GL1500, GL1800

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2006, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply

i think i found a clogged pot in the clutch master cyl.....it was a little port in front of

the main port on bottim of cyl...it was full of sludge...poked it through with a pin and some brake clean....will test ride tommorrow...will let you know

thanks for help
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2006, 11:59 PM
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I have the same problem with my left front brake on the 84, course the bike sat for 9 years before I got it so I suspect I will find lots of nice grunge tucked away, I did flush it lots but the return port must be plugged, sometimes disassembly is the only real cure

Rejuvenated 1984 Interstate
Newly Acquired sad looking 1984 Aspencade
1983 Honda CM250C
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-02-2006, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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yes, i had to rebuild all my cylindes also...didnot notice clog...my bad...heres a tip though, if your inspection glass on your master cyliners is cracked or leaking, you can pop them out... an 18mm shallow freeze plug fits perfectly in the hole....paint the black...looks very sanitary....
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