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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-21-2006, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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After searching the archives on headlights for the 1200 I see that most guys are going for the +30% lights. I would like alot more light out front. Is the +30 light the best thing I can do or should I add a couple of driving lights too? And if so, what wattage so that I don'tovertax my charging system.

I find that my Voltmeter shows about 13.7 volts until my fan comes on and then even at about 2500 + rpm will drop to around 12.2, is this typical?

Thanks in advance

RR

1985 Goldwing LTD
1971 Norton Commando
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 12:12 AM
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Nope... isn't typical. My LTD shows about 13.8 or so most of the time. It does drop when I am stopped and my brakes are on. It can go below 12 volts if my idle drops too low and my brakes are on. Found it to be a regulator problem on mine when it wasnt charging. The regulator for the LTD and SE-i are expensive. I was hopeing it was a problem with the yellow wires but I wasnt that lucky.



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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 04:49 AM
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Hey Uncledeadly, I too did not like or want to drive at night on my 1100. I start to go with a 100/60 headlight but choose instead to go with a set of 55 watt driving lights on a light bar. The 55 watt bulbs in the driving lights were H3 and I wanted 35 watt. One of the members pointed me to a vendor that had H3 35 watts so I changed them out. I've posted the thread with the diagram of the install. Now I have no problem driving at night and I can turn them on or off as needed. Hope this helps.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...Driving+Lights

~teacher~~~

PS: If you need vendor names of 35 watt H3 bulbs or the driving lights Post and I'll look them up in the files and post or pm.

~Butch~~~
1983 GL1100A,Wineberry
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 05:20 AM
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I added 55W driving lights, and that made a huge difference in my ability to see at night, as well as improving the ability of others to see me. I'd recommend them to anyone.

2002 GL1800
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 05:34 AM
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Uncledeadly wrote:
Quote:
After searching the archives on headlights for the 1200 I see that most guys are going for the +30% lights. I would like alot more light out front. Is the +30 light the best thing I can do or should I add a couple of driving lights too? And if so, what wattage so that I don'tovertax my charging system.

I find that my Voltmeter shows about 13.7 volts until my fan comes on and then even at about 2500 + rpm will drop to around 12.2, is this typical?

Thanks in advance

RR
RR, 13.7 volts at over 4000 RPM's is on the low side.. The spec is 14-15 volts at 3000 RPM's or over.. The system operating (& charging) voltage can be effected by many things-- like number of accessories operating, engine RPM, wire & terminal connection integrity, condition of your alternator stator, condition & grounding of your voltage regulator, battery condition,etc..

First off you need to monitor your system voltage AT THE BATTERY POSTS.. If you are relying on a voltmeter wired into the bike's fuse box or other wiring harness connection it is probably not showing actual system voltage.. If you are using a mounted biketype voltmeter it might not be accurate either.. Use a KNOWN ACCURATE voltmeter on the battery posts to verify EXACTLY what your charging voltage is.. If still below 14 volts at 4000 RPM's orabove you have a possible charging problem..

Now on your headlight output? While you have your voltmeter out, check the operating voltage at the headlight hi & lo beam wire at the actual headlight socket.. Then check for a voltage drop in the headlight ground wire circuit.. (my personal 1200 Wing was operating the headlight at a lower voltage than battery voltage).. I added a headlight relay to substantially increase the headlight operating voltage..

I think you will find that adding any of those +30 type headlight bulbs will add very little to the actual light output.. Just adding ANY new headlight bulb will improve light output a little as headlight bulbs do degrade after years of usage... Some of those wonder bulbs dogive the illusion of more frontal light but mostof that is due to a different light temperature. In most 3rd party impartial light output tests there is very little actual difference inusable light output (55 watts is 55 watts any way you measure it)..

One of the big factorsin the older Wing headlight outputs is the antique headlight lens.. That lens, even when new, robbed a lot of usable light & as they turn older & a little foggy & gray they rob even more usable light.. It would be nice to find a clear lens rear reflector headlight for the older wings as that wouldmake a very large difference in usable light out the front..

If you want more frontal lighting on that old Wing go to a couple of 35 watt driving lights.. That alone can make that bike comfortable to ride the twisty's& back roadsat80+ MPHat night..



Twisty




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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 07:37 AM
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Dont know if this will help you at all as my ride is a Interstate but here is my voltage readings.

Ok Running and tested at the battery

1000 rpm's

Idle 14.85v

Brake on 14.14v

High beam 14.88v

Fan on14.94v

Acc term14.66v

running at 3000rpm's

3000 rpm 14.89v

Brake on 15.11v?

Highbeam 14.91v

Fan on 14.90v

Acc term. 14.66v


86 GL1200I 11,617 when bought now it\'s 17,606

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Twisty, thank-you , you are a wealth of information. I went out and sprung for a digital multimeter ( couldn't figure out how to read my dad's analog, and he passed away last year so can't pick his brain anymore, auto electrics was his field of expertise. Man I wished i had payed more attention when he was around!)

Anyways back to topic, I connected the DVM across the batt term. and found that the dash mounted guage in my LTD is reading low. My output is actually 14.15 V @3000. With the key off my amp draw is .01A , I guess because of the clock and travel comp.

At operating temp and at idle it produces 13V but dives when fan comes on I brought the engine speed to 3000 with fan on and it was still -producing13.3V.

Before these tests I disconnnected and reconnnected the plug to the main 30A fuse. I'm wondering if the terminals were corroded and causing some resistance there. When I get home from work I'm going to clean them properly and put some grease on. I've heard that Vaseline is good for this, what do you recommend to use?

Lighting issue: You mentioned that you wire dyour light direct to the batt. Where did you install the relay? I think I'm going to take your advice and do the relay thing and some driving lights 35W *2 should be OK?

Thanks again for your help

RR

1985 Goldwing LTD
1971 Norton Commando
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 01:40 PM
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The charging system has failed, and that failure is also the source of dim headlights. It must charge at 14.5 or so at idle or any speed. DO NOT use Vaseline grease or anything similar on connectors, youll destroy them permanently. Ive seen so many stator connectors burned to a crisp because of this bad info from Honda.


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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OK Dave, you've got my attention. Does the problem I'm describing sound like more is wrong with my charging system than the connnectors. What should I check next in order to be sure that buying your harness will cure the ailment?

Thanks RR

1985 Goldwing LTD
1971 Norton Commando
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 04:03 PM
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Uncledeadly wrote:
Quote:
Twisty, thank-you , you are a wealth of information. I went out and sprung for a digital multimeter ( couldn't figure out how to read my dad's analog, and he passed away last year so can't pick his brain anymore, auto electrics was his field of expertise. Man I wished i had payed more attention when he was around!)

Anyways back to topic, I connected the DVM across the batt term. and found that the dash mounted guage in my LTD is reading low. My output is actually 14.15 V @3000. With the key off my amp draw is .01A , I guess because of the clock and travel comp.

At operating temp and at idle it produces 13V but dives when fan comes on I brought the engine speed to 3000 with fan on and it was still -producing13.3V.

Before these tests I disconnnected and reconnnected the plug to the main 30A fuse. I'm wondering if the terminals were corroded and causing some resistance there. When I get home from work I'm going to clean them properly and put some grease on. I've heard that Vaseline is good for this, what do you recommend to use?

Lighting issue: You mentioned that you wire dyour light direct to the batt. Where did you install the relay? I think I'm going to take your advice and do the relay thing and some driving lights 35W *2 should be OK?

Thanks again for your help

RR
RR, you ask..
Quote:
Anyways back to topic, I connected the DVM across the batt term. and found that the dash mounted guage in my LTD is reading low. My output is actually 14.15 V @3000. With the key off my amp draw is .01A , I guess because of the clock and travel comp
At 3000 RPM's 14.15 volts would be about normal.. As far as the bike's voltmeter reading low that also seems to be about normal..It could also mean you have resistance in some of the wiring or wire connectors, or an ignition switch starting to fail.. It could also point to a resistance in the internal junction or red wire connection just behind the main fuse at the starter relay.. You should use your newly acquired voltmeter & measure the voltage on the (+) & (-) accessory screws at the top of the upper fuse box (under the false tank covertool tray)..If the voltage there is close to battery voltage under the same operating conditions it is a problem with your bike's voltmeter..

Quote:
At operating temp and at idle it produces 13V but dives when fan comes on I brought the engine speed to 3000 with fan on and it was still -producing13.3V.
That could mean a problem or might not.. Bring the RPM up for about 15-20 seconds & re-measure.. It takes a long few seconds for the charging rate to come back up.. A battery low on water, or bad battery, or old sulfated battery will also cause the voltage to stay low for a while on initial throttle up.. Hook the voltmeter to the battery & ride the bike..If the voltage stays above 14 volts while riding, your charging system is probably OK.. That 13 volts at idle could be normal, it really depends on what is running (like fan, brake lights, radio, fuel pump etc).. Engine idle speed also plays a big part in base idle charging voltage..



Quote:
Before these tests I disconnnected and reconnnected the plug to the main 30A fuse. I'm wondering if the terminals were corroded and causing some resistance there. When I get home from work I'm going to clean them properly and put some grease on. I've heard that Vaseline is good for this, what do you recommend to use?

That is a very big problem area on the older Wings (a big corrosion & high resistance area). I would cutboth red wires entering the starter relay,, solder them together,, then install a (large gauge wire) sealed blade type 30 ampautomotive fuse holder between those soldered red wires & the battery's (+) post.. That is a sure cure & will eliminate ANY future problems with that 30 amp fuse & the interconnection at the starter relay..Do not use Vaseline or other dielectric grease as that can make the connection get worse (use a sealed fuse holder)..



Quote:
Lighting issue: You mentioned that you wire dyour light direct to the batt. Where did you install the relay? I think I'm going to take your advice and do the relay thing and some driving lights 35W *2 should be OK?

I ran a fused 14 gauge wire up to the headlight area & used that (through a relay in the upper fairing) to power thehigh beam of the headlight.. I left thelow beam on the factory fuse & wiring as that is a good fail safe if the relay or high beam part of the system ever acted up.. That gives a redundant light system so if one or the other of the hi/lo beam systems fails it's quick switch flip to go to a completely different light power source..



Twisty

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