vacuum lines - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-07-2006, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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I have asked lots of forum members why my bike is running like crap and the consensus seems to be leaking vacuum lines. Rain is predicted and I want to take a few days off and get this baby back to the performance that I fell in love with! If I have a leak due to rotting rubber it makes sense to replace all of the lines - right? Question is how many feet of each size tubing should I buy to have on hand for the job - is it "special" or would most any tubing due? What would the ID and OD be for these lines? How many lines are there? Any help you guys can give would be very much appreciated - Thanks in advance.

1989 1500

32,000 miles

Symptoms - roughish idle, unable to hold a steady RPM at speed, hesitation as I open the throttle and loss of power pretty much across the band.



Mike

youth is wasted on the young

2007 midnight blue GL 1800
1976 Kawasaki KZ900 - my baby
1989 1500 goldwing
1986 Honda Rebel - wife\'s bike
2011 Can Am Spyder RT = wife's other bike
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-07-2006, 09:00 PM
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When I replaced the vacuum lines on my 1200 this last winter I found that I need .5mm (ID) and 1.5mm (ID) lines and I just picked up 3 feet of each. I ended up with some left over, but is was cheap, like maybe .60 per foot??? Got it at the local parts store.

A suggestion, do one line at a time, cut new one to length and reinstall. Takes all the confusion out of it.

1984 1200I Candy Cobalt Blue over Bright Silver Metallic w/ Black & Silver Marbling. Poorboy alternator. Progressive springs and a comfy gel seat.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-07-2006, 09:28 PM
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OK, based on what did people suggest change of vacuum hoses?

There is a substantial difference between hoses on a 1200 and a 1500.
Many many many more in number and length.

To change some of them you need to dismantle the carb, almost all the plastics and so on.

I would strongly advise that you USE a proper Honda Shop Manual and take a very careful look at all the pages that show these hoses.
They are spread all over the book.

I would also strongly advise that you run the tests advised in Hondas Shop Manual before you take on this MAJOR task.

Also most of them are specially bent to fit certain very tight openings. I would not use any hose to replace on my 1500. Well I tried but it did not work properly since some of the bends are very sharp and the vacuum collapses the hose.

You also need to have a 3-5 year olds fingers to reach. Then you need to undo the clamps and remove the hose. Then come the fun and hard part. Replacing the hose and the clamp.

There are few hoses that are not shown in the book so you need to be very careful in marking them all so you know where the came from and where they end up.

That is why I am asking you the same question again: Based on what were you advised to change the hoses???

The symptoms you have written could be due to lot of other reasons.

A general and thorough service is what I would recommend to start with before you start removing vacuum hoses.
How about all the elctronics on the 1500 related to the ignition and so on.???


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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-07-2006, 10:33 PM
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Hi mjohnson, GL1500SE is right about a rat's nest of hose. There are lots of them and it's a complicated arrangement. When they are all hooked up right the engine is an amazing symphony, but screw it up and the music isn't going to be sweet.

Just because it's aging doesn't meant the hoses are rotten. Inspecting them without removing any is a good first job. Using an unlit propane torch or WD40 sprayed around the hoses can locate leaks (I prefer propane 'cause it doesn't leave a mess). There indeed as our fellow member down under mentioned many other causes of your problem. If I remember right there was a recall on some of the early 1500s with driveability problems like you mention. A search on the forum should find some info on that for you. Or maybe some of the guys can remember better than I the details. If you do decide to replace hoses, do it one at a time so you can't mix them up. Many of them can be replaced with bulk hose, a few need to be molded due to short radius bends. In a pinch you can often insert a spring inside a hose to hold the bend open but original molded hoses are better.

Before you get too deep in the job, put in some new spark plugs, check the ignition timing, fuel flow from the pump, fuel and air filter conditions and all the maintenance items that can also cause problems. There are a lot of electrical connection to the relays and solenoids that control the carburetors. These carbs are electrically controlled to a large part so check all the wiring and connections. It's important that the sensors on these engine are working so you ought to do the tests on them too. My philosophy is to do the easy, cheap stuff first. You gotta have a service manual to get to first base on this bike, it's sophisticated, complex, and difficult to work on if you don't understand what's going on.

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