1990 GL1500 changing rear tire/front soon - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-20-2006, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys! New to the forum and goldwing crowd. My dad left me his goldwing that he was going to fix,he rode it once before he died. He was extremely happy to have it . Now I have it and I'm triying to fix it up for his burial in 3 weeks, on a budget. If don't make it on the goldwing that's ok too, but I figure I'll try. Anywho, I'm trying to change the tire myself and have the dealer balence it, or have them install the tire and balance it while I do the grunt work. I'm doing pretty good just by the owners manual but, does anyone have any diagrams they could send me that could help me out? Any advice? thanks!

Shawn D.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-21-2006, 02:13 AM
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Do a search on rear tire change. You do not have to pull the bags off just unbolt andflip up onto seat to remove the back tire. #1 thing to remember is the bike will roll off the kick stand and fall over.Get a friend to help put bags back in place to help hold while getting bolts back in.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-21-2006, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Got any bookmarks? Searching for "Rear tire", "rear tire change", or "tire change" didn't do it for me. That might help, I'm at the part where you lousen the exhaust, I've already got the bags off, to prevent theft.

sd
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-21-2006, 12:34 PM
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-21-2006, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks for the info!
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 03:52 AM
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Hey Shawn, what model Goldwing is it? Also, you might be able to ask some of your local GWRRA members to turn up at your dads funeral for escort duty. Goldwing owners are usually very obliging in these matters.

GL1800 SatNav, red 2006
GL1500 Aspencade, blue 1999
GL1200 Aspencade, blue 1986
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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That would be cool, do I have to join to find a list of local chapters in mn?
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-23-2006, 05:03 AM
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Here's the EASY way to get the rear wheel off of a 1500. It takes about 10 minutes (15 if you're not a mechanic). And you can do it on the side of the road if you need to. You don't have to remove trunks or lights. No electrical connectors to take loose. You can even leave your hitch on!
  1. Put the bike on the center stand. You don't need any jacks or blocks. Empty the trunks if you've got much weight in them.
  2. Remove the seat (two allen-head bolts on each side in the handles).
  3. Remove the shields at the fronts of the mufflers (two bolts on each side).
  4. Loosen (do not remove) the exhaust pipe/muffler clamps (total of four bolts, two at the front of each muffler).
  5. Remove the muffler bolts under the trunks (one each side), and rotate the mufflers down.
  6. Support the rear assembly with a jack or block (taking precautions to protect the rear body work). Open the side trunks. On the inside wall of each trunk, near the front, is a rubber plug (on the SE/Aspencade, the air hose passes through this plug in the right trunk). Remove the plugs and REMOVE the bolt behind each plug (one each side).
  7. Where the seat was, near the back, and just behind the shock mounts, are two bolts, one on each side of the frame, holding the rear frame to the main frame. Loosen (do not remove) these two bolts.
  8. Step around to the back of the bike, take hold of the trunks underneath, and lift. The whole rear end (trunks, lights, hitch and all) will lift up and pivot on the two upper frame bolts, exposing the rear wheel and axle! Raise it up until the antennas touch the handlebars, and secure it in place. I looped a rope around the handlebars and tied it to the trunk rack to hold it up.
  9. Loosen the bottom left shock bolt. Pull the axle and the brake caliper (lay the caliper on the crash bar). Slide the wheel left and it's out!
    The reason for the change in step 6 above is that when you lower the rear end back into position for reassembly, the two lower bolts will prevent you from putting it back down if they are not completely removed.
  10. Reassembly is in reverse order of assembly. YOU MAY NEED A SECOND PERSON to help you lower the trunk pack back into position. This is because it may be necessary to pull out on the fronts of the side trunks while lowering them, so they will pass over the top mounts of the rear crash bars.
  11. With support under the back end of the trunk pack, use a small mirror to look through the access holes in the side trunks. Line up the bolt holes in the rear crash bars with the holes in the frame. Start the bolts, then lower the trunk pack into position and tighten the bolts.
    The whole rear assembly is held on by the two top bolts, the bolts at the tops of the rear crash bars (the ones behind the rubber plugs) and the muffler bolts.
    The frame pieces behind the trunks do not have holes for the bolts, just slots. When you reassemble the trunk pack to the frame, you can support the back of the trunk pack so the slots are just above the bolts. Start the bolts through the crash bars into the frame, then when you lower the pack into position, the slots will engage the bolts. Then you can tighten them down.
    If you're on the side of the road, you can lower the rear assembly back down, put the seat back on, and lock your parts in the trunk while you get your tire repaired. This gives you access to the swing arm and shocks, too. You can service the whole rear end, replace shocks, etc., without disassembling the trunks.
Dave "Renegade" Haggard
Chaplain, God's Road Warriors
Christian Motorcyclists Association
'96 Aspencade -- Blue Beauty
http://www.newcovenant.com

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-23-2006, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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The bolt on the right side of the wheel when removed allows the axle bolt to slide out from the left right? I'm having a problem removing the nut, I'll have to purchase a socket, other than that it's ready to come out
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2006, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I just finished the rear wheel, and I must say it was much faster than I thought to take apart and reinstall. It took longer to find time and have the tire installed than anything. I've just ordered a new front tire off ebay, and I'll start on that next. Any advice on the fronts? Should I do new springs, oil? Also, it seems to run OK, but it stumbles when I engage the clutch and I have to goose it, it gets a little better warmed up. I may have to do a carb overhaul this winter. I saw on a site to change the oil fast to drill holes in the caps, link below. The clutch is rattly too, which I saw someone else on this forum say is normal?

http://www.wingtechtips.com/index.htm
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