Dunlop III's -- how to measure wear - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-08-2006, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, you have all probably discussed this, but I'm relatively new to the forum......

On my first set of Dunlop III's, biased ply, for a GL 1500: how in the heck do you check for wear? The tire tread is kinda weird, and I don't know where to measure......

Also, the wear bars seem to be saying it's time for change, but I only have 12 grand on them. Long distance, heavily loaded miles it's true...... is that all I can expect to get?

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-08-2006, 02:55 PM
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I've got about the same mileage on my front EIII and it still looks pretty good. There's still about 1/16" or slightly more depth to the center line grooves. I intend to run it until the center line grooves start to disappear or until the cupping gets irritating.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2006, 04:00 PM
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I'm with Paul, I just watch the centre grooves as they are where most of the wear is anyway.

Ted Kelly.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2006, 06:09 PM
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12 to 14 thousand miles on a non radial tireis about normal.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 05:09 AM
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Cousin Jack wrote:
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Okay, you have all probably discussed this, but I'm relatively new to the forum......

On my first set of Dunlop III's, biased ply, for a GL 1500: how in the heck do you check for wear? The tire tread is kinda weird, and I don't know where to measure......

Also, the wear bars seem to be saying it's time for change, but I only have 12 grand on them. Long distance, heavily loaded miles it's true...... is that all I can expect to get?

Say it ain't so, brother!
Jack, that's a good question.. As you say those E-3's are different looking than the tires that came on the bike.. I have E-3's on my 1200 & with about 6K on them I am starting to see some pronounced sidetread wear on the front (very little cupping though)..

My suggestion would be to E-mail (or call) Dunlop & ask their opinion on how & where to measure the wear on the E-3's..

It looks like the front E-3 I'm presently using will still be fine on dry roads but both side tread sipes are starting to wear shallow enough to not funnel water away on deep water rain conditions.. I will probably run the present front tire until I notice a side slip problem on wet roads..

The good news for me is: so far these E-3's are wearing better than anything elseI have run so far as I never get this kind on mileage on a front tire on a GoldWing..

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 10:32 AM
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 12:52 PM
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Somehow I don't think wearing down the gooves will make a lot of difference in wet weather. There aren't all that many grooves to start with, lots of space between them so they really aren't pushing much water away. Add to that the small road contact area a motorcycle tire has on the road and hydroplane lifting isn't going to be very pronounced. An automobile tire with it's large full width contact patch can hydroplane a lot easier, a 2000lb car would have a lot lighter tire loading on the road than an 800lb 'Wing due to the fact that it weighs almost half as much and has a lot less than half as much rubber on the road. If you look at modern motorcycle tires compared to the older ones there's a lot less tread pattern in the new ones.

The above would only apply to highway type bike tires of course, not for dirt bikes or off road where traction on a soft surface is important.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 01:28 PM
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exavid wrote:
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Somehow I don't think wearing down the gooves will make a lot of difference in wet weather. There aren't all that many grooves to start with, lots of space between them so they really aren't pushing much water away. Add to that the small road contact area a motorcycle tire has on the road and hydroplane lifting isn't going to be very pronounced. An automobile tire with it's large full width contact patch can hydroplane a lot easier, a 2000lb car would have a lot lighter tire loading on the road than an 800lb 'Wing due to the fact that it weighs almost half as much and has a lot less than half as much rubber on the road. If you look at modern motorcycle tires compared to the older ones there's a lot less tread pattern in the new ones.

The above would only apply to highway type bike tires of course, not for dirt bikes or off road where traction on a soft surface is important.
exavid, actually I have found that decent side tread & deep side sipes make quite a difference on cornering side slip on water covered roads (at least for my riding style, or lack there of if you prefer).. All that nice pounds per square inch & contact patch kind of go out the window once the bike is laid over in a corner.. Most of the bikes weight is pushing at an angle & not straight down so that loads the tire at a slip angle.. It doesn't take much water between the contact patch & the road to allow the tire to run wide in a turn.. Couple that to the more it slips the less down pressure you have & that outer roadfog line comes up in a hurry.. If you lean it over fartherthe slip increases & if you stand it up you run wide.. Personally I can really tell the difference in the wet (I'm talking water covered roads not just damp) when the side tread starts wearing..



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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 03:18 PM
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I can't disagree with you Twisty, you have experience riding harder than I do. However I do think the higher contact pressure works in the bike's favor. I was thinking mostly of hydroplaning, tire adhesion is of course another story, but I'm not sure I can see that the minimal tread grooves on a motorcycle tire can push away much water, there's just too much ungrooved or siped rubber even on the sides.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 04:44 PM
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exavid wrote:
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I can't disagree with you Twisty, you have experience riding harder than I do. However I do think the higher contact pressure works in the bike's favor. I was thinking mostly of hydroplaning, tire adhesion is of course another story, but I'm not sure I can see that the minimal tread grooves on a motorcycle tire can push away much water, there's just too much ungrooved or siped rubber even on the sides.
Exavid, youare probably correct on a bike having more actual ground pressure per square inch than an automobile (straight up, not leaning) .. But there is way more to hydroplaning than just ground pressure.. A lot has to do with tire design, tread design, sipe design,tire rubber durometer, etc.. It is pretty well accepted in the bike world that anything over 55 mph can lead to a bike tire hydroplaning.. Adding air pressure can up thatslightly but even then 65 mph & up is apt to bring on hydroplaning in a heavy rain.. Remember bike tires use a fairly hard rubber & lots less multi directional water channels.. On the other hand I have had light cars hydroplane at as low as 45 mph with lots of water, wide tires, & tire wear.. Problem is: on a car, even if one tire comes up on the water you have 2-3 more doing something.. On a bike if one tire comes up on the water (especially the front) you have very little control if you need to corner or change your line.. Trust me on this, a little water induced tire slippage on a 4 wheel car at speed is hardly noticeable but a little water induced tire slippage on a bike at 70 MPH will put a pucker where you sit..

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