Anti-dive - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, exactly what happens if the anti-dive doesn't work or is disconnected ?

Bob
\'99 GL1500 SE w/CSC Trike
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 01:48 PM
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klaxon horns go off.... with the message DIVE DIVE DIVE

sorry, couldn't help myself
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 03:06 PM
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If it fails te forks often get stiff as a result. Why would you want to disconnect it anyway?

Martin Egan.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 03:11 PM
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tntriker wrote:
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Ok, exactly what happens if the anti-dive doesn't work or is disconnected ?

Tntriker, the anti-dive keeps the front forks from diving on a hard or even a moderate stop.. When you stop your motorcycle the weight transfers to the front end causing it to drop orwhat is called dive (the bike pitches lower on the font & then therear or the bike tries to raise up)..

When it quits working the front end usually goes fairly low on hard braking..

The anti-dive is a device usually hooked mechanically or electrically to the front brake system that stops or slows the front forks from dropping on front brake application.. In most cases it just slows the flow of fork fluid through the fork valving & that causes a controlled hydraulic lock that allows the forks to settle out slowly.. Some bikes use electric controlled valving to do the same thing, & other bikes like my BMW RT use front suspension control arm angle to cause a natural anti-dive just by the proper placement of the ball joint & control arm pivots (most automobiles use a similar anti-dive geometry built right in the front suspension)..



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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 06:53 PM
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Just to add a bit to what Twisty said. The mechanical anti dive unit is a very ingenous little contraption. The brake calipers are designed to pivot or rotate a bit when the brakes are applied( the rotating rotars supply the force as the pucks make contact) This then forces a caliper pin against a plunger at the bottom of the forks which in turn restricts the flow of oil in the fork and prevents their rapid collapse upon hard braking. I sort of figured that out when I was replacing the rubber seals around the unit.

Hawker22(Ken)
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1997 GL1500SE--White Cloud
2001 GL1800----Blue Yonder
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 08:12 PM
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I wondered exactly how the anti-dive worked...thanks for the explanation!

Jack

1983 GL1100 Interstate

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 09:41 PM
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The screwdriver adjustment on each fork lower on the anti dive sets the restriction rate of the oil passage for more or less anti dive action.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2006, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys

Bob
\'99 GL1500 SE w/CSC Trike
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2006, 10:13 PM
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The only thing that leaves me wondering about this setup is that the forks are'nt really linked together. Thefoot brake applies one front and one rear caliper and the hand brake only one front caliper. So if your into a hard stop with only one brake, you are only activating one forkanti dive unit, thereby leaving the other fork compressing normally. Not that I only use one brake,butthere are times that I do. This makes only one fork stiffen up and the other soft. You would need equal pressure applied from eachfront caliperto get full functionof the anti dive. I do sometimes notice astick sensation in the forkssometimes on realease of the brakewhen only thefoot brake is applied, but notice it less when using both hand and foot brake. Just my thoughts.

Jerry

1985 GL1200 Aspencade
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2006, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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On a bike, this is true. However, on a trike, the hand lever applies both calipers on front and foot brake works both rear.

Bob
\'99 GL1500 SE w/CSC Trike
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