Water Pump seal replacement issue - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-01-2006, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, so I thought replacing my water pump and all seals on my 83 GL1100 sounded straight forward enough and wouldn't 'flumox' me, but little did Iknow the previous owner was a BIG believer in gasket sealent... I mean, this guy must have owned stock in the company!

Can someone suggest a way of pulling off the front engine cover that is stuck that doesn't require gouging up into the gaskets with a pry bar?

I have tried to nudge it with a rubber mallet, have used a small Xacto knife to very carefully trim some of the gasket out of the way, and I've also tried to leverage the cover off by using a screw driver as a pry bar against the flange that is on the lower left side of the case (sitting on the bike left side).....but no luck on any of it. Its an hour later and one beer down and so I thought I would see if anyone else has encountered this.

Any ideas anyone?

Cheers!

Todd

EDIT: if there is any confusion, not only is the water pump housing cover gasket sealed into place, but also the front engine cover that needs to be removed in order to get to the waterpump seals. page 120 of the clymers...


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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-01-2006, 07:43 PM
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Whoa...I'm in the middle of the water pump thing myself; '87 GL1200. 1st, are you sure all the bolts are out. I read some posts here before I started, and there really is at least one that a guy could miss easy enough.
Then I gave up pretty quick on the smaller pump cover, thinking I could get it better when the tranny cover was off; I finally called something right! Yes, I tapped on the two lower flanges and the pry-bar thing. Then I got out the dusty old heat gun and warmed the case up pretty good. Seemed to help, but I know the history of this bike so I know this is the 1st time the cover has been off. Who knows what kind of super glue combos are on there on your putt.
Mine was leaking oil through the tell-tale hole, which is why I went in at all. I found that the o-ring in the oil pump face was out of its groove for about 30 degrrees, and pinched between the mating faces. I'll never figure out why that factory screw-up decided to leak now, after more than 19 years! I have always been lucky that way, you know?
Good Luck!

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-01-2006, 08:00 PM
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I used a putty knife beveled at a 45 degree angle worked pretty good
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-01-2006, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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FenderHead,

I thought about the bolts, so I counted the ones on clymers manual page and then what I took off and they added up .. 9 bolts total on the face of the engine cover, not counting everything else I took off to get to that point, so I'm hoping that I didn't miss one. But since I know its easy to do, I'll check again tomorrow just to be sure.

That's a good idea on the heat gun, not sure if it will help, but it certainly couldn't hurt to try!

ExtraWrinkle,

Good thinking. I'll have to go and buy a smaller putty knife and try that in combo with the heat gun idea. All of my putty knives are plastic, but I think a metal one would work better, so I'll have to hit a store and then I'll let you guys know how it goes!

Thanks!

Todd

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-01-2006, 11:46 PM
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Are you certain that it is from a sealant???? There are little hollow ring insert/guides that hold things together...... sometimes there is corosion that builds up between the aluminum engine covers and the steel inserts that really seal things up tight.

I would be very afraid to pry on the engine covers with anything. I would not want to damage the faces thatare necessary for a good seal. Try to stick with the rubber mallet to jar the corrosion free. Hit side to side on the case,trying to work it forward.... slowly but surely there will be a gap and eventually it will suddenly work free.

Focus on the main front cover and worry about the other two after you get the large one off.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, unfortunately, I'm sure there is a sealant. When I picked up the bike the guy told me the waterpump leaked, so he took it apart a few months prior to my buying it, put on new gaskets and then used a blue gasket sealant goop to try and keep it from leaking again...but instead of just using a small bead here and there, you can tell he used it all over the seal.

Unfortunately, it started leaking right after he buttoned it back up. If you look at the gasket now, the blue goop is oozing out in a fine beed all around the engine case.

Thanks!

Todd

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 11:22 AM
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Oohhhh, extrawrinkle's idea really is a good one! I can't believe I didn't remember it for my cover. I've used a thin, flexible putty knife many times over the years. Works great and no damage that can't be easily filed out. Usually more damage removing old gasket than anything else. Just tap it into the seam slowly & gently, alternately working the 3 sides accessible.
I've seen way too many cases where the owner(s) & shops globbed-on the silicone sealant, only to have the excess (inside) soften up, separate, and thoroughly contaminate everything, plugging holes and filters. Not good at all. Hope yours is still intact inside there so you can recover it all!
Aluminum expands from heat at a rate slightly more than double that of steel. In the case of the trans. cover, it is insulated from the engine cases by the gasket, and the engine acts as a greater heat sink than the cover, so the act of expanding the cover did help to free the gasket bond somewhat. I know it finally came off, when it wouldn't budge before.
Yup, those little hollow dowels can be a problem, one of the two in my water pump cover was exactly rusted and expanded to a press-fit as described earlier by lil pete.


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 08:39 PM
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Yes I've used the putty knife trick on several occasions. All you want to do it get under it enough to loosen it up... them use the "force" of the hands to release the rest. As far as removing the old blue glue...Acetone on a rag works..But DON't get it on a painted surface....


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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 09:15 PM
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Acetone on a rag will also remove the engine paint so be careful. Working a thin blade putty knife with a chisel likesharpened end around the joint as the guys mentioned works well. Usually you won't have to go all the way 'round before it starts to give up. I use a small ball pein hammer on the end of my putty knife to tap it into the edge of the gasket.With luck, the guy used a RTV based sealant and not good old Permatex #1. If you use that you don't even need the bolts.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 09:31 PM
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Hi Aquilius, I think you may still have a few bolts to go. take a look at the picture. I count twelve bolt holes around the case perimeter. I hope you made a diagram of where those bolts go back. There are at lease four different lengths to get back into the right holes.
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