Changing timing belts - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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It seems to me that we need some kind of write up on timing belt changing or at least some permanent warning on the subject. There have been at least three folks on the forum who've damaged their bikes with the belt change, and probably scared off several others who would have done thier own but took it to a shop. The job isn't complicated or difficult but the price of error is high. What do you think, should some one write up the process and submit it to Wingnut for possible inclusion into the Goldwing Tips page or some such so that we could just refer anyone to that instead of recommending a search on the subject or have to re-type the whole process each time?

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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 12:54 PM
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Sounds like a good idea to me. I think that my 86 Aspy with 90,000+ miles is due.

I amsomewhat mechanically inclined and have done some minor repairs to this point but after reading some of the posts I had felt that maybe I would be better off to take it to the shop.

If there was a post with detailed instructions I might attempt it over the winter.

Peter
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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 01:37 PM
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I think that's a great idea. One of the first questions new old wingers have is about their timing belts. A tutorial would be most helpful. It could include a few members tips and some reassurance to not freak out when that right hand pulley moves after the old belt is removed. I think that scares alot of people away from attempting the job themselves. Their afraid that they won't line up the pulley correctly. My own tip is to mark the pulley to the engine case with an indelible magic marker before disassembly. That way you can be sure your not a tooth off. I'm sure other members have other tips that they'd be willing to share. The trick to putting it on the Tips section would be to keep it clear and concise.

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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 01:59 PM
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Good idea! It would definitely add to the comfort level of the first timer.

I changed mine a couple of months ago (worried the whole time). I printed out all of the relevent info that I found on this site before starting, and still came back and asked questions before firing back up.

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 02:04 PM
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I too, would fall in that camp. I consider myself fairly mechanically inclined, but after reading some of the horror stories, am planning on taking my 86 in to a shop for the belts, this winter.


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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 03:00 PM
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It's really not that difficult guys. Don't be in a hurry, have the right tools and a good working environment with good light.
All the marks are clearly visible on the cam, crank and flywheel. Once you remove the old belts you install the new ones in reverse order. Just make sure you put the inside (closest to engine) on first. It’s sort of like rebuilding the carbs, the first time you wrestle them out, mess with them and wrestle them back in. By the third time you don’t even think about it.

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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 04:20 PM
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gkiesel wrote:
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I think that's a great idea. One of the first questions new old wingers have is about their timing belts. A tutorial would be most helpful. It could include a few members tips and some reassurance to not freak out when that right hand pulley moves after the old belt is removed. I think that scares alot of people away from attempting the job themselves. Their afraid that they won't line up the pulley correctly. My own tip is to mark the pulley to the engine case with an indelible magic marker before disassembly. That way you can be sure your not a tooth off. I'm sure other members have other tips that they'd be willing to share. The trick to putting it on the Tips section would be to keep it clear and concise.
I know that when that right hand gear jumped it got my attention. Being somewhat mechanically inclined, I was able to overcome the problem but to those who don't really know the mechanics of an internal combustion engine, it could scare you.

I did get a whole lot of information while scanning the forum, though. Great information on here.

David (Pappy) Young
1993 GL 1500 SE
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 05:35 PM
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Here is a start at listing the points of importance. When this is complete, then all someone needs to do is write it up in a user friendly format: Feel free to add or omit things that you deem necessary:

Belt change--at each?????? distance ???????? time interval. If you are unsure of the last belt change, do it.

Orientation---while sitting on the bike, left is port side, right is starboard side. That never changes, no matter from where you view the engine.

The timing cover is at rear center top of the engine and looks like a big silvercoin with a slot in it.

Easier done if the coolent is drained and the rad removed or moved foward at the bottom.

Remove both belt covers--good time to polish them if they need it.

Remove the spark plugs

Rotate the engine CCW(moving the top of the crankshaft bolttoward the port side) until the T-1 mark in the viewing hole is aligned with the reference mark, and the two cam pulleys are aligned with their marks on the outboard of thehousing, and the "UP" marks on the pulleys is pointing up. If it all aligns, then the old belts were installed correctly.

Do not move the crank or cam pulleys again until you are completed.

Loosen the tensioner bolts and remove both tensioners and springs.

Spin the tensioner pulleys and listen for any noise and feel for any roughness. Noise or roughness means a bad pulley-replace it.

The stbd. cam willwant to rotate about 20 degrees when you remove that belt. Expect it but do not worry aboutit now.

Remove both belts

I gotta go for awhile so am going to post this uncompleted--I will edit complete it or if anyone else wants to chime in--feel free as we should include all ideas and tips in the final version.I would volunteer to write it up if we get a reasonable concensus as to its content, and it is agreeable with Exavid, and ultimately,the Wingnut.



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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 08:38 PM
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One thing I'd be sure to include are pictures of the timing marks on the cam gears. On my 83 1100 there are 2 other marks on the right cam gear which could be easily confused with the correct marks.
On this replacement 81 1100 the marks look all together different than the 83.
For this reason I'd say the most important step without fail would be to mark the gears and case with a sharpie before removing them like mentioned after the crank is at TDC 1.

My next tip would be to replace radiator hoses if age isnt known.
I like to remove the lower front water pump housing instead of trying to muscle the hose off of it and taking a chance damaging the fragile radiator fitting.

Heck, while at it might as well pull the radiator all together, makes the belt job easier, hose replacement easier and the thermostat will never be any more accessible so replace that too.

1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 08:56 PM
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Octane is one of our resident Guru's on the Naked baord and he has a excellent pictorial with instructions posted here: http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/forum/...pic.php?t=3544



Only problem is that you have to be a member of the board to see the pics

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