FORK DRAIN PLUG THREADS STRIPPED - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Recently purchased GL1100, '82 Interstate/

Whenever bumps or depressions in roadway encountered, front end would bottom out.

Discovered almost no oil in right fork,and recommended air pressure in forks would not hold.

Threads on drain plug on right fork appear to be partially stripped, plug cannot be tightened enough to prevent leaks.

Any advice on a fix would be appreciated..

Thanks.

Polkwing
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 12:13 PM
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There will likely be several opinions on how to best fix this, but you will likely have your own comfort zone. A few options here; Heli-Coil, threaded plug called "Keen-Serts" or something, or tapping a little oversize are a few of them.

Since the repair must contain slippery oil under variable pressures, you need to maintain the sealing face. I haven't had this problem yet, so I never paid attention to the fork drain screws' design. Are there O-rings involved, or just little sealing flat washers?

Without seeing the feature 1st-hand, I think I would research the current size thread size, and compare the closest "next size" between both metric and english, to take the screw a little oversize while still retaining the original sealing surface, then re-thread. Make sure you have a suitable replacement screw in-hand before you make the committment, though.

The HeliCoil would be my personal next choice, as they have always worked well for me in salvaging spark plug holes, but I don't know how small the thread sizes are available. I think I have one kit here that is a 6mm, but not sure...might be 10mm (memory is the 1st thing to go, don't'cha know?)

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 01:03 PM
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. Drain plug ( screw or whatever) has a thin copper washer.

Neighbor suggested cleaning screw threads and interior of the hole with acetone to remove oil residue, then wrap the screw with as much teflon as possible and try that.

I did, tightened the plug screw hand-tight but applied no pressure with a wrench.

Not sure this will work and won't know until fluid is in., fork cap back on ans air psi up to recommended. If that doesn't do it will try one of your suggestions. This old dog looks good but..bought it with odometer reading 40 K.Hoiwever plenty of evidence this is second time around. Either that or previous owners didn't know anything about maintenance. Otherwise, cycle is in pretty good shape.

Thanks for the come-back.

Polkwing
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 03:47 PM
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There's a fair amount of meat around the drain hole, shouldn't be too hard to drill and tap a bit larger. That wouldn't require as large a hole as a Helicoil. I wouldn't want to use teflon tape or anything like that, there could be fairly high shock pressure on the oil when the bike hits a bump. It won't do any good for handling if you've got a different response on each side of the fork every time you hit a bump.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Larger hole and plug to fit makes sense. I don't have tools to do that...think I will leave it to my cycle repair shop.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Polkwing
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 09:55 AM
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I was going to tap for an oversize bolt but as a temporary measure degreased damaged thread in my 82Gl1100 and glued drain plug back with loctite been running ok for two years now with upto 21psi in front forks.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 09:56 AM
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POLKWING wrote:
Quote:
Recently purchased GL1100, '82 Interstate/

Whenever bumps or depressions in roadway encountered, front end would bottom out.

Discovered almost no oil in right fork,and recommended air pressure in forks would not hold.

Threads on drain plug on right fork appear to be partially stripped, plug cannot be tightened enough to prevent leaks.

Any advice on a fix would be appreciated..

Thanks.

Polkwing
POLKWING, try the easy things first like a slightly longer screw (it's a standard metric thread) Takethe old one to any local metric motorcycle dealer & they can probably fix you right up with a longer screw.. The sealing surface will allow most any screw head design to work with the originalseal ring..



If the longer screw inthe above won't hold then the easy thing to do is go up one thread size on screw (bolt) size (try the next upsize up in an American screw as that will require a smaller hole).. To get access to the hole to tap it to the next size you will have to remove the anti-dive valve from the fork lower (simple to do just pull the screws out & pull it off)..



Twisty




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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Cutting new threads and putting in an oversized bolt seemed to be the most oft recommended by others. That procedure is beyond me and nearest cycle repair shop is 20miles away.

Your advice relieves my anxiety so will give it a try. Took me mega effort and time to get the fork caps back on after putting in new fluid. Following your suggestion will mean going thru all that again but if it works, beats hauling the old cycle to the shop and paying shop time for the labor.

This website is great; just logged on over the weekend and am impressed with the number and content of helpful suggestions.

Have a "gooder" and thanks for your advice.

Polkwing

PS: After-thot: what did you use to degrease the bolt and hole threads?. I tried acetone but kept getting evidence of old oil on the cotton swabs.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-03-2006, 03:08 PM
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Polkwing:

You sure It's losing 1 lb. a day??? Every time you use pressure gauge you'll lose about a lb. That little pssssst you hear is air escaping. Pump it up to where you want it, then don't check it for a wk. or so. Hopefully you'll be surprised.
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