Difference between: "Must do" & "Should do" - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
Sly
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Thanks OWaP --> I hadven't heard about preloading. It sounds a bit strange to me, a bit like clutchless shifting. However, I'm here to learn so I'll give it a try.

You're right about shortening my trip a bit so as to have time to change the timing belt and check the charging system.

It's not what I wanted to hear, but what I needed to hear. Thanks

\'86 GL - Interstate


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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 10:37 PM
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Again welcome to the greatest forum on the planet.

I second the timing belt change, If that belt lets go while going down the road you could be in serious trouble; mechanically and physically.

Safe riding and letus know how the trip goes.

Another member in the great state of NC!

It\'s all about the RIDE!
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 11:19 AM
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Welcome to the board.

I would think twice about that long of a trip on an un-tested and as you stated un-documented machine. You say it smokes after being on the center stand? Is it an oily smell or does it smell like anti-freeze? Either could indicate engine problems that could worsen with mileage.

If you insist on going the timing belts would be a must. Not only because of the potential for catastrophic engine failure but if the motor locks up while you're tooling down the road, the rear wheel stops suddenly and down you go unless you're quick on the the clutch.

I can understand your eagerness in wanting to ride your new "toy" but if you have a bad enough break-down on the road you're going to have to figure how to: 1.Find someone to work on it, not knowing their track record and how much they're going to charge you to fix it. This would scare me as you would be open to being taken advantage of by an crooked mechanic/shop Not only that, but from what I've read, most Honda dealerships refuse to work on that old of a bike. Plus, getting parts is also part of this equation.
2.Ship it back home for a sizeable fee and the hassle of finding a shipping company that would do this. 3. Leave it home and use another mode of transportation.

I know this isn't what you wanted to hear but I'd like you to be able to enjoy your wing down the road,sort to speak.

Whatever your final decision, I wish you good luck and great riding experiences.

Regards,

Hobie

Mark
Wineberry 1983 Interstate
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 12:56 PM
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Hey Sly, I bought a 1985 interstate 1200. The loser that had it before me said he always maintained it. yeah right. I flushed all the fluid brakes, clutch. and antifreeze. they looked like chocolate puding at the bottom of the resevoirs. bled the heck out fo the bleeders to make sure it was really clean. change the oil and filter. Mine smoked like crazy too until I change the engine oil to full synthetic oil. ( sorry I dont mean to start the oil war again). The other thing i changed was the secondary air cut off valve under the car manifold. pretty easy job for a $20. part. check the yellow wires to make sure they have been fixed and you should be trouble free for a long time. Oh yeah, check the brass bushing in the clutch handle, mine had 40,000 mile on it and the push rod for the piston in the master cylinder wore a hole right through it. $15. later the clutch was like new. the othr thing to ckeck is the timing belts, like everyone says here, if they break, kiss that engine good bye. enjoy your ride be safe.

Don
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Don - Thanks man. That's a good list of stuff. I'm scared about messing with the clutch as I have a serious bit of corrosion on my old V-Max from a few drops of stay Dot 3. I'll be careful and replace that bushing. Transmissions aren't fond of 7k rpm clutchless shifting after losing clutch pressure.

The manual says to run a solvent through the radiator and then flush twice with water before refilling. I've never done that to my cars, is a simple drain and fill ok if the fluid isn't too bad?

I'll check the stator wires and do the timing belt.

Thanks everybody.

\'86 GL - Interstate


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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 01:31 PM
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that should be fine, check the old fluid for dirt, if its brown, or pieces of rust, that would indicate a more thorough inspection. when I put the 10w40 synthetic oil in my bike it really did make a difference and it seems to shift better. I try not to put too many miles on her before changing oil no matter what kind i use. make sure you use the dot 4 for the brake and clutch though. solder the yellow wires together right by the battery if it hasn't been done yet. you will never find more usefull info than on this site, good luck.

PS: just don't ask which oil is best to use
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