More carb. questions for GL-1100 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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I'm in the process of rebuilding another set of carbs. With all the help to my initial question/problem on my own carbs of a blocked passage, can I get some more advice? My question is this...

Under the "kidney shaped plastic cover", there's three openings, one with a brass jet in it, a dead end screw hole and the the third thatappears to go intoone of the standoff risers in the float area viaa runner tube, also with no jet in it. Dothese actually connectthrough a runner tube as it appears they should? I can't get airpressurethrough ANY of these 4 holes from either direction. I don't remember what the situation on my own carbs. were... maybe they're their still blocked as well...

Looking into the holes from either side, I can't see anythingthat would leadthrough into the runner tube but maybe there's a small holeinto the side of the tube that's notvisible.

In the Honda service manual, it labels theone with the brass jet in it as "air jet"anddoesn't label the other one at all. I'm thinking that it goes nowhere?

Any help would be much appreciated.

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 05:59 AM
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The brass one should connect to something. I got mine to open up by using Brake Cleaner and another trick I got from Randakk's site: I boiled the carb in distilled water for 20 about minutes - not tap water but distilled water. Then blow it out.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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I should clarify this some. I know where the one w/the brass jet in it goes andeach one of them isclean and clear on all four carbs. It's the other one, on the other side of the screw holethat I'm wondering about. Each one in all for carbs.seem to go nowhere even though they do have a runner.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 08:37 AM
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on any area of the carb that I was not 100% sure if it was clean because I could not see thru it, blow air thru it etc - last thing I would do for the night is tilt the carb in the appropriate manner and fill the orifice with seafoam. Next day I would then blow it out with compressed air.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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I've been doing justthat, letting carb. cleaner and alternating with Seafoam and sometimes lacquer thinner sit in these areas that I'm askingabout on all four carbs. since last Sat. morning.I let is sit in them overnight and thentry to blow 200 lbs. of air pressure through them in the morning and occasionally all day long after putting more stuff in the holes.

I would think thatone or two shouldstart to open up by now but nothing at all so far.

Even though they have runner tubes and certinly look like they wouldgo through from one side of the carb. to the other, I wondered if they actually do... Does anyone know for sure?

Looking from the float side of the carb. in this pic., the tube I'm talking about is the one on the far Rt. (or closest to the throat). It has a runner that looks likeitconnects to the hole I originally asked about..., which is on the topside of the carbs. and"underneath" the kidney shaped plastic cover and again, closest to the throat, the one W/OUT the brass jet in it.

If these go through, any ideas of getting them to open up, other than what I'm trying?

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 10:59 PM
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Of course I can't remember the name of the stuff and I no longer have a can of it in the garage as it eats through the cans rather quickly so I was forced to dispose of it years ago.

Anyway.

The stuff comes in a gallon size can (like a paint can). It is some type of parts cleaner that I got at a specialty parts house (that is out of business now.) I never found anything like it at a Kragen or Napa or other chain.

I have used it to eat out carbon / oil build up in two stroke exhaust line / pipes back in the '80s. Used it on a set ofcarbs back around '93 on a bike that had set for many years. It worked where normal cleaners didn't.

You might try checking a "local" parts house not a chain store for something. If I remember the name I'll post it. The stuff will disolve most everything non-metalrather quickly. The cans themselves where usually shot and starting to leak in about a year or two.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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After running of of patience, I was going tosoak the individual carbs in carb cleaner, the black stuff that we used to use on auto. carbs but decided instead to boil one of them in water as Randall Washington suggests (Randakk). I boiled onefor 50 minutes ata solid boil.After drying it all off, I tried to get some air pressure through the hole in question.. Absolutely NOTHING. I've come to the conclusion that those castings, even though they have a runner that looks like they go through..., are actually just blank castings and are dead ends from either direction.

It seems odd thatno one on here has any ideas about this or has ever ran into it on rebuilds of the early 1100 carbs.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 08:35 PM
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just my opinion - I would be pretty careful using lacquer thinner and stuff like that. I would imagine that it is not very float tip friendly and could see having to replace the floats. The float tips are just rubber.
Also could eat gaskets.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 08:43 PM
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don_berry wrote:
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just my opinion - I would be pretty careful using lacquer thinner and stuff like that. I would imagine that it is not very float tip friendly and could see having to replace the floats. The float tips are just rubber.
Also could eat gaskets.
That was / is the whole idea ... it will eat everything but the metal. I assumed that the person ie... me or anybody elsewho would use it would have the common sense to disassemble the carburator COMPLETELY first and not 'dip' such components.

But, thanks for pointing out what was obvious to me but maybe not to somebody else. Your might have saved somebody a headache. Bad things canhappen when assumptions are made.....

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 08:52 PM
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I don't think that this was necessarily the brand I used but should be similar. Usually onehour in this is fine. About 6 hours in this should clear out just about anything. As I had said before the old 2-stroke pipes would clog with carbon and oil causing a loss in performance. Filling them with this overnight would clean them up like new.


Incidentally, the stuffSTINKS really bad and so will the areayou use it in fora couple weeks.




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