Question about clutch slippage and neutral light. - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Took my '77 GL1000 out for about a 50 mile ride just cruising out in the country yesterday afternoon. At one point I was running about 3000 rpms in 4th gear just easing around the country roads and all of a sudden my rpms start climbing with no change in speed, almost like it went into neutral or slipped out of gear. I shifted into 5th and continued on. It never did it again, even when riding in 4th. Would this be the clutch slippingor is it possible to get hung between gears? I do think my clutch needs adjustment because it seems to release immediately upon pulling the lever, hardly any play at all. Also, I do have a small amount of MMO in the crankcase, about 1/2 pint.Bikehas a little over 38k miles on it.



I've also got the problem with the neutral light not going off when in gear. I know its a well documented problem, just wondered if anyone has a simple solution (other than taping over the light) or adding MMO to the crankcase to clean the contacts on the neutral switch which I've already done (see above).




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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 12:56 PM
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If I remember right, the '77s have a clutch cable. I would adjust for some free-play; a tight cable is not good. I don't know what's in that MMO, never used it. If it has anything like molybdenum, graphite, or teflon in it, that's not good for clutches at all.

If you know for sure that the front engine cover has never been off, I would suspect a faulty switch, or the positive wire may have rubbed thru the insulation and is grounding out to the block, neg. wire, or frame. The wires (2) exit thru the top of the engine cover, just right of center. Have someone watch the light with key on and tranny in some gear other than neutral, while you reach those wires and wiggle/tug on them. If the light goes out at all, you have a short. There is a retainer on the cover up there, too, right where wires exit. You may have to bend it to free the wires enough for the test. Lots of road grime builds up there, too. Prepare to get dirty!

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 01:26 PM
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Check your cable for binding, maybe in the turn the clutch cable was being pulled which pulled the clutch in ever so slightly? Would be even more likely to do that with little or no play in it from the start.
Or maybe the tranny wasnt fully into fourth or between 4-5 (something I've never done)
Actually, I mis shift often if I'm lazy about pulling the shifter up fully. I've found neutral between every gear. I guess I have one of those special trannys :P

I believe the 1000 has only one wire from the neutral switch which ground's to activate the light.
There should be a plug around the horn area which leads to the neutral switch. Try unplugging that for a place to start.

IMO, get that MMO out of there, the cleaning agents in todays oils make MMO worthless. More frequent oil/filter changes are more better for the engine and clutch.

1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 01:30 PM
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Sounds like it may have indeed slipped into a false nuetral. Bike transmissions will do that if they are not fully in gear. I would think that if your clutch was slipping it would slip every time. I would NOT run MMO in the oil all the time. A small amount a few miles before an oil change is ok but that stuff makes your oil as thin as water when hot. There is a procedure to burn the carbon off the nuetral switch by applying 12 volts to it. It is documented somewhere. Maybe on Randakks site??

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If it ain\'t broke, fix it till it is!

Life is ten percent what you make it, and ninety percent how you take it!


79 GL1000 46K
86 R80RT
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 01:49 PM
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One other thing on the clutch:

I dont know if this is the case on the 1000 but the 81 1100 engine has another adjuster accessible thru the rear cover.
The reason for this adjuster is because the clutch arm that connects to the cable has a stop inside the cover which prevents it from moving past a certain point, uh...downward at the cable end. If the arm is against this stop, the free play in the cable could be mis leading as a proper adjustment because there may still be pressure being applied to the clutch's release pin.
I found that the clutch on mine would slip with only a slight pressure on the lever even though It had the recommended 5/8" play, it turned out backing that internal adjuster out solved the problem.

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1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 03:46 PM
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There is a "neutral" between all gears. It's possible to pop out of one gear and not into the next. The neutral light will not detect this.

John
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Past bikes
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 04:09 PM
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Hey Dan pilipi..Where did the picture go? I clicked on it and got a window showing it downloading to a temporary folder. Can't find a temporary folder...

Bob..KF4GP
If it ain\'t broke, fix it till it is!

Life is ten percent what you make it, and ninety percent how you take it!


79 GL1000 46K
86 R80RT
90 K75RT
Garage won\'t hold any more!
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 04:58 PM
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Try adding the file extension such as it ends as tif instead of blank (or jpg).

Try this link: link

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 05:13 PM
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wingmaster wrote:
Quote:
Try adding the file extension such as it ends as tif instead of blank (or jpg).
Sorry about that, html stuff on this forum isnt very Mac friendly, or the Mac isnt very forum friendly.

I fixed it here

1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 06:19 PM
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It's very possible you're bike did slip out of gear. If the shift into fourth wasn't quite completed it can slip out of gear, especially if you open and close the throttle, taking the load off and then putting it back on the engine, and especially when in fourth gear. I wouldn't worry about it unless it happens fairly often. Just make sure you get the shift into fourth snapped in all the way.

Neutral light problem could be a chafed and grounded wire, very dirty or failed switch. I'd disconnect the wire at the engine end and disconnect the connector nearest the bulb and check for continuity to ground. You could also use an ohmmeter to see if the switch itself is open when the bike's not in neutral, if there's continuity to ground when the bike is in gear you'e got a switch problem.

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