brake bleed problem on 95 gl1500SE - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2007, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Help guys...my boss just got a 95 GL1500 to replace the 1200 he sold me. I went over to help him bleed the rear brakes and could not get them to pump up. Bled the front and then the rear. It pushed fluid with no bubbles but after the bleeder was closed the brakes would not firm up. What's the deal?...

2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500FI
1978 Yamaha XS750SE "Special"
1984 Honda GL1200 Goldwing Aspencade
1979 Yamaha XS750SF "Special"
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2007, 07:10 PM
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Still have some air trapped. Since the brake line to the front brake goes through an upside down 'U' to get up and over the steering head, it's easy to get air trapped in the top of the loop. It can take a lot of bleeding to get that pushed out. Air can get trapped in the banjo bolts too, try cracking them like you do with the bleed screws.

One other source of bleeding difficulties is the small port in the master cylinder getting plugged. There are two small holes or ports between the master cylinder bore and the reservoir. One of them looks like a deadended hole. At the bottom of the 'deadended' hole is a very small hole. If that hole becomes plugged it can be near impossible to bleed the sysem. It's easy to clean the hole out with a fine piece of stiff wire, I use a whisker from a wire wheel or brush held in a small vise grip. The hitch is on the rear master cylinder you just about have to removeit from the bike to be able to get at the port.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 03:47 AM
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The gl1500 can be a pig to bleed. I use the syringe method described in other threads here and it works and works faster as well.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 10:11 PM
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I have a hand vacume pump that I use for bleeding brakes on any vehicle and I love it. If you can get your hands on one with having to buy it at $35-$40 it should do the trick for you. Unless there is an issue of a hole being plugged.

Another trick is to open the bleeders and let it drip for a while (maybe 1-3 hours) give or take. Just need to take precations on catching the oil so NOT to let it get on any paint or plastic.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-07-2007, 03:53 PM
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I too,had a problem earlier with my 95 aspencade this past October. I purchased the hand vacuum/bleeder from AutoZone ($20 I think). Worked okay but somewhere on another thread here I read something about locking the pedal and brake levers in the full on position overnight. I don't know exactly why that works but it DID seem to make front and rear much more solid (feel-wise, anyway).

Greg

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-07-2007, 07:30 PM
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Do it the easy way, less than $20 and works well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474


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Past 'Wings: GL1100, GL1200, GL1500, GL1800

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-07-2007, 07:38 PM
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Figures,,,,,,,I got mine back in '99 when I bought my 77 GL1000 and Harbor Freight wasn't near me then. Got mine at Auto Zone for around $35 then. Still one of the best tools I've purchased. Cuts down on my CURSING

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-07-2007, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah we wound up buying the mityvac and it worked fine..Only problem was that the supplied plastic hose was a bit larger than his bleeders and it wasn't easy getting a good vacumn...

2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500FI
1978 Yamaha XS750SE "Special"
1984 Honda GL1200 Goldwing Aspencade
1979 Yamaha XS750SF "Special"
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-08-2007, 02:45 AM
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im not sure if im right, but a vacum pump would help you a lot i am trying to get one myself to do my brakes ;p
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-08-2007, 04:37 AM
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Hi all, the mitvac is a good bit of kit and does the job, but so does a syringe at a fraction of the cost, I use the syringe method now as I find it quicker and easier.

Nick

Welsh Winger

1982 1100DC 38,000 miles

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Nick Duffy (Welsh Winger) is no longer with us. He passed away in mid-September 2012, joining his wife Julie in Paradise.
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