gl1000 weak spark, no spark - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2008, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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I was looking through old threads to find an answer to the ignition problem I'm having ('77 gl no spark different coils) and found this post. Can anyone elaborate on what may have been going on here?

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Thanks,

Last night I took the coils loose from the mounting brackets and found a little rust build up between the coil and the bracket. I took some fine sandpaper to both sides and put it back together and it started right up. The [highlight= #88ffff]spark[/highlight] was very sporadic sometimes there would be a little [highlight= #88ffff]spark[/highlight] and other times there would be no [highlight= #88ffff]spark[/highlight].

Now there is plenty of [highlight= #88ffff]spark[/highlight]!!!! I'm looking forward to getting out and riding.


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2008, 11:55 PM
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I can't see what cleaning the connection to the coil frame and bracket could do. The primary winding of the spark coil has 12V applied to it at one end through the ballast resistor, ignition switch and kill switch and the other end of the coil is keyed on and off to ground with the ignition points. Neither the primary or secondary of the coil is connected to the coil's armature.

Check your ignition by turning on the ignition making sure your kill switch is in the run position and check if one side of each coil against ground has somewhat less than 12V present. If that checks out put the volt meter across the other terminal of the coil and and ground and crank the engine. You should see some voltage fluctuating on and off if the points are working.

You can also leave the ignition off and put an ohm meter on the wire from the points to the coil. You should see the resistance changing as the points open and close.



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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2008, 06:31 AM
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as exavid said the coils don't ground to work. The interor is completely isolated from grounding. the can just armor plates the wireing so to speak. I'd be inclined to think there was a bad connection overlooked but repaired in tear down and reassemble. check points carefully. Base must ground to - (neg) and when closed the moving half must also go to -(neg) and as opened break continuity. Any oil or dust on contact tips will prevent them from making contact. Your location not shown but if you have a $1 bill USA slipped and swiped between the carbide tips will clean them unless they are carbon burned. If carbon coated time for emory board or point file and then clean with $1 bill again. If points opening and closing correctlysuspect condensers may be at fault.

Shade tree explanation of ign.points,and coil, condensor working. (voltage to coil and points when open, points close, grounding condenser loading it with voltage,points open voltage stored in condenser flashes to coil. coil winding super charges voltage and spits it out to spark wire and spark plug.)

elementary way to gauge spark strength (Not recommended, maybe hazardous,but works) HOLD WIRE AND OPEN & CLOSE POINTS BY TURNING ENGINE OVER 1 REVELOTION OR LEVER POINTS OPEN GENTLY WITH SCREW DRIVER. GAGE STRENGTH OF SPARK BY REACTION--- hummmm NO SPARK---uuuew WEAK SPARK-- oooHHH STILL WEAK @#%#@^@#$&** GOOD SPARK. GRADUATED WAY (PREFERED) have someone else hold spark plug wire. Keno
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2008, 08:41 AM
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2008, 08:42 AM
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well, how about some what ifs. I'm still not running. I did have fire at both sets of points today. (temporarily) Someone told me that the points should have 4.5 v. Can you see 12 v. if both sets of points are open? Will the points not spark if the plugs are fouled? Hey I'm reaching out here. Thanks
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Well I think I have it half there. I just typed a lengthy explanation, either it went somewhere else on the board or to the Enterprise. Anyway condensed, Grounded set of points and wires from condenser to coils crossed. I'll elaborate later if my post got lost in space. THanks everyone.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 07:05 AM
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 08:34 AM
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just guessing - had bad wring and when he cleaned the ground he twisted the wires enough to give them better continuity

77 GL1000 - forever in your debt
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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I guess my post from this morning got lost.So here's what happened, and thanks to everyone again. I was able to go home this morning, and within a few minutes get things back like they were before I thumbed them all up. I have however learned a little about these ignition systems due to all this. First , and I know this isn't usually the case with these bikes that have set up for long periods, I created problems by not taking the time to systematically troubleshoot. Like if you swap 2 wires and nothing happens, put them back!! I had a miss before rebuilding the carbs I thought might be one of the plug caps. So i put new caps on the wires. When I put the carbs back on, no fire at 3/4. So i pull the whole coil assy. off. Ohmed it, Ok. Put the coils back on and either didn't hook up one of the primary supply wires, or it came unhookedwhen putting back together. Before finding that problem I had moved on to swapping the bl/y and y leads to the points, and forgot to swap them back. Now i put on new points and condenser, and somehow one set of points get grounded.Find the Blk/w wire unhooked , thanks to a poster here, still have coils swapped.

At this point all I'm getting is backfires and no ignition, not even 2 cyl's, like before, I know the carbs are good, so its definitely ignition. Timing I suspect. Go through the static timing ,setting points, still no voltage at grounded set, etc. etc.Read a few moreposts lastnight, went home, swapped the coils back, fired first time.rolled the engine around to open the dead points, pulled the points set, had 4.5 v. to thethem.What a cluster.So nowits going. Not sure what caused the points to ground, but Ishould add, they were off ebay, andnot the"double spring"design.Cheap. They are working for now, I'll be synching tomorrow.

Was my timing 180 out? Myvulcan mind finds that hard to comprehend. Anyway thanks everyone. Reading old threads and taking a little time to think made the difference.
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