Changed Points, now won't start - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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While redoing the wiring on the fried conector, I also cleaned a few other connections, and changed out my points. after I set the point gap (or so I think), I went to start it and got nothing and had one big back fire (surprised the MP's didn't show up). Not sure what to do, I tried to check the timing like the book says, but can't figure it out.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 09:24 PM
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It stands to reason if it ran before you changed the points that the problem is in the points. If you got them gapped right and connected right and they make contact when closed it should run. Try sliding a dollar bill between the contacts to clean them.
There may be some residue on the contacts preventing continuity.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 10:16 PM
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No real experience with the early wings, but on most point ignitions the points mounton "TWO"movable back-plates. The outer plate is adjusted for point gap, and the inner is rotated for dwell/timing. Also be sure that the pointcam is still free to rotate,(should be spring loaded),for proper timing advance.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2008, 11:03 AM
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what gap did you set the points at?reset to .016 and try it again. points must be clean, don't wipe them with any thing that may leave a oily residue,etc. when you repaired that burnt molex plug you may have inadvertently loosened the point lead connection that is beside it. two wires with a yellow band on one and a green band on the other. make sure they are firmly and properly plugged in to there color matched sockets. check every thing that you fixed prior to the no start.

PS next time, fix one thing at a time. check your work after ea. fix. if things go bad, re fix the last thing fixed.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2008, 11:07 AM
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On my GL1000 point gap was ultra critical.

If you put an ohm meter (low ohms scale) across the points while the key is off and slowly rotate the cam, you can see the points in action electrically.






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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2008, 11:19 AM
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i know nothing about the ignition on the 1000, but if its a car it would have a condenser nearby, does the 1000 have one, or what controls the spark at the points

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2008, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well got her running, doesn't seem to be running as well, had shut it off and tried to restart, couldn't keep it running, I guess I have some more work to do to it.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2008, 10:40 PM
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Make sure that when you gap the points,they are on the high spot of the cam.I think there is a punch mark that indicates where this is.Also be sure that the wires going to the points are firmlyattached by the small nut and not shorting out against the point housing.Set the timing on the left set first by rotating the point plate.The other set is on a slotted base that allows you to slide the points a bit to set the timing.I use a timing light to set the points while the engine is running.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-27-2008, 05:00 AM
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Points are no big deal if done carefully - like has already been said, check all other parts that you fixed around the same time. Have you got all the wires correct on the "new" connectors.

To set the points - turn engine until heal of points is on a high part of the cam. Adjust point gap to the correct size.

To set manual part of timing - turn engine till the timing marks line up, turn distributor body or internal plate until you feel pressure trying to open the points. Try it a couple of times to get the feel of it and then tighten it all up.

Check that it runs

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