Broken Bolt - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-27-2008, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Peterbylt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tampa, Florida, USA
Posts: 819
Post imported post

I'm tearing down the GL1000 engine to get it running after 17 years. When I was removing the thermostat housing I could not get the rearscrew to move.When it would not budge with a screw driver I tried the impact driver which just strippedout the Phillips head. Then I clamped the vise-grips on the outside of the screw head and thought it was working until it broke.

See the Yellow circle in picture.

My next step will be to drill it and try a screw extractor.

Or

I am open to suggestions?





Peter


75 GL1000
81 GL1100
85 GL1200A
75 550F
Peterbylt is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-27-2008, 09:54 PM
JBz
Senior Member
 
JBz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dayton, Nevada, USA
Posts: 2,003
Post imported post

you might have enough there to weld a nut on it. jb

2003 yamaha vstar 1100 classic 2004 honda rebel 250 {2}1983 aspencades + 83 Interstate 82 Aspencade <2>77 gl 1000 1981 Interstate <2> 75gl1000s 76 Gl1000
JBz is offline  
post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 01:11 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Monroe, Michigan, USA
Posts: 166
Post imported post

If that was in there so hard you sheared the head off trying the first time, i'd guess you'll be unlikely to get it with a screw extractor. Most styles have a reverse helical shape which applies some outward pressure to begin with if it's in there good you'll just be fighting yourself more and more. Best bet is as suggested try welding a nut on there, not much for a second shot so do a good job the first time. Soak the bejeebers out of it with a good penetrant like kroil or some such, not that wd40 crap. You also might try heating the base, tricky, maybe boiling water might give you enough temp difference and some dry ice on the bolt just before you try twisting it out. You might be able to just use a propane torch on the bolt itself when the nuts welded to it, and use some sheet metal to protect the block and then hit the bolt with dry ice, and apply force. Have to be fairly quick with the switching heats or it just transfers losing the shrinking advantage. I just sheared the front intake bolt myself clean at the surface but lucky for me it's small enough for me to pop the left head off and just throw it up on a knee mill and clean it out proper like. Be careful applying heat around there with a torch, it'd be easy to screw it up worse than where you're sitting now. I just bought an 83 so am in the same boat as you with most of the fasteners. I plan on taking everything off and out and applying a nickel base never seize
http://www.bostik-us.com/TDS/TDSFiles/NSPureNiSpec.pdf
to all new bolting. It is critical you don't use a copper based so you don't promote galvanic corrosion Which is what we are encountering. Also keep in mind, you have to account for it being a lubricant with your torque values. And keep in mind if you do any of this, all these tips are worth exactly what ya' paid for 'em, your mileage may vary. ;p Best of luck.
dhrith is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 04:31 AM
Passed On, R.I.P.
 
Mohawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Baldwinsville, Just Outside of Syracuse, New York, USA
Model: 09 Gl1800
Posts: 2,129
Post imported post

Before you weld the nut on top the remaining Stud. Give it a couple of sharp raps with a medium size hammer.

A bolt works by holding force between the head of the bolt and the threads.

So picture your threads are now frozen in place with the same pulling force.

Now that the head of the bolt is broke away. If you give it a sharp hit with a hammer you have in effect reduced the holding force. The threads would now be in a neutral space in the thread pitch. (Minus any locking compound)

Now if there is enough of a shaft remaining out, Try your Vice Grips and try to remove the shaft of the bolt.

BUT...... Don't try so hard you chew up the remaining length of stud.

Another trick is to saw a slot in the remaining Shaft with a hacksaw or Dremel.

Now try your Impact screw driver to remove.

If that don't work.

Weld the nut to the shaft.

But have things ready before you weld.

If you use dry ice, Chip some up or even shave some.

Have your Socket ready to fit the nut you are welding to the shaft.

After welding nut on and you fill up the center of the nut flush with Weld.

Watch the color of weld. When it goes from Orange Red to dark Red and then to Blue. Wait just a moment more. The heat is being transferred to the casing surrounding the bolt shaft.

Be sure and wear thick gloves, Especially if your use Liquid Nitrogen instead of Dry Ice.

Now put the socket on the nut and fill the interior of the socket with dry Ice Chips or shavings. Pack it in good with a punch or screwdriver and even use the breaker bar to plug in and force the ice down to the bolt, the ice will be melting as fast as you can put it in but the cold is being transferred to the bolt shaft making it smaller.

You may even hear it snap or crack and that's the release. I have been able to remove bolts with my fingers without the need of a wrench with this treatment.

Now put your breaker bar on the socket and give it a try.

Liquid Nitrogen works best for this but it's not readily available in small quantities.

Good Luck to you,

Mohawk



95 Aspencade, Dressed to the Nines
Live to Ride - Ride to Live
My 4th Wing with 43 Years in the Wind Now
I have owned over 50 bikes now, This is the longest I have owned only one bike.

Prior USMC Sgt. and Vietnam Vet - Platoon Sgt. and D.I.
PGR Member since 2006 - Serving Those Who Served For Us.

The Native Americans found out what happens when you don't control immigration.
Mohawk is offline  
post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 06:40 AM
RB
Senior Member
 
RB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SCOTTSDALE, Arizona, USA
Posts: 4,328
Send a message via AIM to RB
Post imported post

YOU MIGTH TRY A LEFT HAND DRILL BIT..DRILLS A HOLE FOR A EASY OUT BUT IT MAY BACK OUT THE BOLT IN THE PROCESS...oops sorry about the caps.

1981 GL1100I Sold her..so sad!
1976 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow sold
1976 GL1000 RED rebuilt SOLD
1979 GL1000 parting out PM if you\'re looking for something
1975 sold
1978 sold
1981 sold
1982 sold
1982 sold
1983 A sold
1997 1500 SE SOLD
1999 1500 SE SOLD
1998 1500 SE..RIDING
FAIR WINDS,
RB
RB is offline  
post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Peterbylt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tampa, Florida, USA
Posts: 819
Post imported post

Thinking about it overnight. I got the Idea to cut a slot in it with my dremel and then try my air impact wrench with a flat screwdriver bit in it on the low setting.

This might knock it loose. Or maybe try the weld the nut on and use the impact wrench.

Problem being I don't have a welder immediately available at this location although
I have been looking for an excuse to buy onefor use in the garage or I could load the bike onto the trailer and go use my friends welder at his shop.

Peter

75 GL1000
81 GL1100
85 GL1200A
75 550F
Peterbylt is offline  
post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 07:25 AM
Monkey with a Football
 
Rudy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: With VPN, anywhere
Model: Linux, Firewalls & VPNs
Posts: 19,229
Garage
Post imported post

I like the smack with the hammer, add solvent and hit it the surrounding area with a torch approach. Snap some large vise grips on it and have at it.
Might need to repeat the process a few times.




Rudy

“...and the rabid dog they gave me
wasn't too much fun”
Rudy is offline  
post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 08:23 AM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 177
Post imported post

I normally drill mine out then insert a Helicoil to provide a new thread.

2006 Suzuki Burgman 400
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
oldgoat is offline  
post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 03:55 PM
Senior Member
 
Big Cahuna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: roselle, new jersey, , USA
Posts: 1,299
Post imported post

I use this oil called "kroil". they say it creeps into the threads it works for me. I also would heat up the block part after letting the oil work overnight and pull that puppy out.,,,

Bikes Ive owned, \'69 Norton,\'48 Harley panhead, \'71 Bsa, \'76 gl1000,\'93 Harley ultra,\'03 Harley ultra,\'05 Sportster, \'82 GW 1100.\'96 Police road king very used. "I tried thinking once, but nothing happened" .,,,
Big Cahuna is offline  
post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 04:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Silverfox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Croydon, England, United Kingdom
Model: GL1800 '06 GL1200 SEi '86
Posts: 21,185
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to Silverfox
Post imported post

Bit too late for this particular scenario,but for future reference and working a little bit on Mowhawk's principle,if you encounter tight threads, here is an old engineers trick.... before trying to undo bolts or screws,first turn them in the clockwise or tightening direction. If really tight,use an impact driver with a light tap,before undoing.You will be amazed how easily some come out that you found to be really tight.

Pete




To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'06 GL1800
'86 GL1200SEi
'98 ST1100 Pan European, formerly owned by the Late Motorcycle Pete, Member and good friend of many on this site. Available for use by visitors from the USA and Canada.
Silverfox is offline  
Closed Thread

  Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums > Forums > Goldwing Technical Forum

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Broken starter bolt smokincrow Goldwing Technical Forum 14 05-26-2011 06:37 PM
Broken Timing cover bolt bagelboy Goldwing Technical Forum 13 02-06-2010 05:10 PM
Got broken Bolt out, GL1100! Nightrider1 Goldwing Technical Forum 3 08-16-2009 01:43 PM
Fork axle bolt broken, what to do? ereid Goldwing Technical Forum 18 09-16-2008 01:34 AM
Rear Absorber Bolt Broken!!! William_86 Goldwing Technical Forum 12 09-01-2007 09:13 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome