Broken Bolt - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-27-2008, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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I'm tearing down the GL1000 engine to get it running after 17 years. When I was removing the thermostat housing I could not get the rearscrew to move.When it would not budge with a screw driver I tried the impact driver which just strippedout the Phillips head. Then I clamped the vise-grips on the outside of the screw head and thought it was working until it broke.

See the Yellow circle in picture.

My next step will be to drill it and try a screw extractor.


I am open to suggestions?


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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-27-2008, 09:54 PM
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you might have enough there to weld a nut on it. jb

2003 yamaha vstar 1100 classic 2004 honda rebel 250 {2}1983 aspencades + 83 Interstate 82 Aspencade <2>77 gl 1000 1981 Interstate <2> 75gl1000s 76 Gl1000
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 01:11 AM
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If that was in there so hard you sheared the head off trying the first time, i'd guess you'll be unlikely to get it with a screw extractor. Most styles have a reverse helical shape which applies some outward pressure to begin with if it's in there good you'll just be fighting yourself more and more. Best bet is as suggested try welding a nut on there, not much for a second shot so do a good job the first time. Soak the bejeebers out of it with a good penetrant like kroil or some such, not that wd40 crap. You also might try heating the base, tricky, maybe boiling water might give you enough temp difference and some dry ice on the bolt just before you try twisting it out. You might be able to just use a propane torch on the bolt itself when the nuts welded to it, and use some sheet metal to protect the block and then hit the bolt with dry ice, and apply force. Have to be fairly quick with the switching heats or it just transfers losing the shrinking advantage. I just sheared the front intake bolt myself clean at the surface but lucky for me it's small enough for me to pop the left head off and just throw it up on a knee mill and clean it out proper like. Be careful applying heat around there with a torch, it'd be easy to screw it up worse than where you're sitting now. I just bought an 83 so am in the same boat as you with most of the fasteners. I plan on taking everything off and out and applying a nickel base never seize
to all new bolting. It is critical you don't use a copper based so you don't promote galvanic corrosion Which is what we are encountering. Also keep in mind, you have to account for it being a lubricant with your torque values. And keep in mind if you do any of this, all these tips are worth exactly what ya' paid for 'em, your mileage may vary. ;p Best of luck.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 04:31 AM
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Before you weld the nut on top the remaining Stud. Give it a couple of sharp raps with a medium size hammer.

A bolt works by holding force between the head of the bolt and the threads.

So picture your threads are now frozen in place with the same pulling force.

Now that the head of the bolt is broke away. If you give it a sharp hit with a hammer you have in effect reduced the holding force. The threads would now be in a neutral space in the thread pitch. (Minus any locking compound)

Now if there is enough of a shaft remaining out, Try your Vice Grips and try to remove the shaft of the bolt.

BUT...... Don't try so hard you chew up the remaining length of stud.

Another trick is to saw a slot in the remaining Shaft with a hacksaw or Dremel.

Now try your Impact screw driver to remove.

If that don't work.

Weld the nut to the shaft.

But have things ready before you weld.

If you use dry ice, Chip some up or even shave some.

Have your Socket ready to fit the nut you are welding to the shaft.

After welding nut on and you fill up the center of the nut flush with Weld.

Watch the color of weld. When it goes from Orange Red to dark Red and then to Blue. Wait just a moment more. The heat is being transferred to the casing surrounding the bolt shaft.

Be sure and wear thick gloves, Especially if your use Liquid Nitrogen instead of Dry Ice.

Now put the socket on the nut and fill the interior of the socket with dry Ice Chips or shavings. Pack it in good with a punch or screwdriver and even use the breaker bar to plug in and force the ice down to the bolt, the ice will be melting as fast as you can put it in but the cold is being transferred to the bolt shaft making it smaller.

You may even hear it snap or crack and that's the release. I have been able to remove bolts with my fingers without the need of a wrench with this treatment.

Now put your breaker bar on the socket and give it a try.

Liquid Nitrogen works best for this but it's not readily available in small quantities.

Good Luck to you,


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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 06:40 AM
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thinking about it overnight. I got the Idea to cut a slot in it with my dremel and then try my air impact wrench with a flat screwdriver bit in it on the low setting.

This might knock it loose. Or maybe try the weld the nut on and use the impact wrench.

Problem being I don't have a welder immediately available at this location although
I have been looking for an excuse to buy onefor use in the garage or I could load the bike onto the trailer and go use my friends welder at his shop.


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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 07:25 AM
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I like the smack with the hammer, add solvent and hit it the surrounding area with a torch approach. Snap some large vise grips on it and have at it.
Might need to repeat the process a few times.


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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 08:23 AM
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I normally drill mine out then insert a Helicoil to provide a new thread.

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 03:55 PM
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I use this oil called "kroil". they say it creeps into the threads it works for me. I also would heat up the block part after letting the oil work overnight and pull that puppy out.,,,

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 04:16 PM
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Bit too late for this particular scenario,but for future reference and working a little bit on Mowhawk's principle,if you encounter tight threads, here is an old engineers trick.... before trying to undo bolts or screws,first turn them in the clockwise or tightening direction. If really tight,use an impact driver with a light tap,before undoing.You will be amazed how easily some come out that you found to be really tight.


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