GL 1500 Alternator - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 11:09 AM
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My wing is not keeping a charge. I have been told that it is most likely the alternator. I do my own work on my bike & have not tackled this big of a job yet. I have been told that I may be able to use a regular GM alternator. Does anyone know if this is true? How big of a job is this going to be? I would appreciate any help I can get. I do have a Clymer book, but any help is good. Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 11:20 AM
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Guessing it's for the 1500 on your profile. You should get a Compufire alt, of if you don't want to shell out major bucks(about 3 bills), just take your alt to a rebuild shop and they'll probably charge about a buck fifty or so.

To my knowledge, the GM alt that you asked about is for a 1200 modification to replace the stator, not for your 1500.

Anyway, just disconnect the battery, and pop off the leftside lower cover(by your foot, the trapezoid shaped one). And pop off the alt, couple of bolts and the plug/harness line.

Good luck.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 11:23 AM
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The GM alternator that you heard about is a conversion for the 1200 wings, and won't work on your bike. I seen a couple of 1500 alternators on e-bay last night, and it is pretty easy to remove your alternator and just take it to a alternator shop and have it repaired. But if your bike "is not keeping a charge" first, I would have the battery checked. To see if the alternator is charging, take a digital voltmeter and set to 20VDC, put the red lead on the positive post and the black lead to the negitive post of the battery. Record the voltage. Start the bike, and with the voltmeter attached, if the voltmeter reads between 13.6 volts and 14.7 volts with the engine running at 3,000 rpm, then your alternator is working fine. If the battery is not holding a charge, then you either have a electrical drain on the system, or a bad battery. to check for a electrical drain, the easiest would be charge up the battery real good, unhook the battery from the negetive cable and let set overnight. If the next day the battery still has 98% of the voltage that it had when you unhooked it (batteries will sometimes read a hair lower a day after a charge) and starts the bike ok, then it means you have to find out what is draining the battery when it is hooked up. By the way, welcome to the forum!


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 11:25 AM
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Before you go popping off your alt... get yourself a meter and check your battery while it's running.

If it's charging good, thenpull the battery and get it charged, and test it on your bench for a day or two to see if it's holding it's charge. If it's not holding it's charge on your bench, then replace your battery. If it is holding a charge, then theremight be an electrical draw on the battery that this doing this would show.

And welcome aboard.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 11:28 AM
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You need to first find out just what your alt is or is not doing using a volt meter connect to battery engine running it should show approx 14.4 volts when reving 12v is no good alt faulty if it is showing 14v then battery is the next suspect and if its over two years old change it.
If you need to remove the alt.Left/ right side panels off disconect battery (neg) alt is behind the left panel three 12mm wrench size bolts and a small bracket with one 10mm wrench size bolt this needs to be removed to gain access to the alt, once you have the three bolts out alt should move back and out of the frame then disconect the two wires off the back replace the rubber drive blocks (4) replace in reverse order its a very easy job to do but looks harder than it is
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 06:57 PM
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Welcome to a great site for info and camaraderie, lady-wingrider !

Good advice from the 3 posters above, who were all on the same track and madly pounding the keyboard at the same time.

Just take your time and you'll do fine.


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 08:27 PM
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If you can swing it, go ahead and get the compufire if you find your alternator is at fault. I tried to have my stock alternator rebuilt and after the third try, I went with the compufire. It is a good move. The compufire charges at idle and has a much higher output than stock. Even rebuilt, stock may be iffy and still will not charge at idle which can leave you with a discharged battery even while the motor is running.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-31-2008, 12:26 PM
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Ok i had the same problem with my wing and after chatting with others here on the forum they informed me of this guy who rebuilds 1500 1800 and comp-u-fire alternators.
Here is his web site:
His name is Ken Heming...Ph# (219) (74-4038)
I got a rebuilt one from him and so far it's working great.

Safe Riding All

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 01:26 PM
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Changed my alt. this past week after it went out in nowhere N.M. on a Sunday. Went with the Compufire being thatthe bike has add on lighting,etc. If you have a maintenance free battery already its a little cheaper. Compufire will not work with liquid acid batteries. If you do go with Compufire the directions for install aregood Pay attention to the sentence of " Does not require allot of force to install" basically telling you its going to take some. Small solid tubing runsat back end along the frame will need to be pushed back a bit to get the alt to rotate into position. At first glancethought no way is this going in there. The old one was tight getting out, with the new one larger in size.Just a little sweat and in it went, 95 degrees outside made the sweat.

95 Aspencade
04 Rubicon - AJE / SAJE
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