97,000 mile GL1100 top end rebuild? - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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I may have an opportunity to pick up a pretty nice GL1100 dirt cheap. runs good but has very high miles.

I would expect to go thru it and do normal vintage bike serice like brake fluids, carb clean and balance, fork seals, rear end lube, and on the wing timing belts.

would appreciate comments on the following:

1. how hard is it to do a top end rebuild?
- can you do it with the engine in the frame?
- any special tools or expertise req'd? (I have rebuilt in-line 4's before)

2. are the cranks a failure item on hi mileage 4's?

any other questions I should be asking?

thx in advance for any help or comments.

2003 GL1800, 05 FJR1300, 1998 TL1000R, 2003 1978 KZ750
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 08:36 AM
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97,000 miles is not a high mileage Goldwing. Just barely broke in.

I never recommend rebuilding 1/2 an engine. Either all or nothing, barring special circumstances. New top puts extra stress on old bottom or vice versa.



Clean her up. Change the fluids and timing belts. Ride'er till she bucks!

Sean, the Resident Redneck
1997 GL1500 Aspencade Limited Edition
1983 GL1100 Aspencade
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 10:31 AM
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I agree with SB in SC, do the usual, then test for compression, gasket seal and operation. The 1100 is rather robust and simple, so KISS it and enjoy.

All fluids changed
Check brakes, do M/C rebuild to your standards, all discs
Steering head
Drive shaft, lube


Drive her and verify all aspects of the bike: Does it stop properly, does it steer or pull and lean without your input, does it start and idle, does it rev and return to idle, then spend some time bringing the electrics into 21 st century...above all is it as safe as it was when new...enjoy!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 11:18 AM
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My 82 Asp has over 200,000 miles and the motor has never been out of the frame

The bike has been on the road all its life with no long stays in storage, my daily rider.



If a bike sits for long periods without use there may be a reason to remove the heads and clean the valve guides to keep a valve from hanging up but 90,000 on a Wing is a drop in the bucket


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 03:29 PM
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I agree with the others. I would run it a decent amount then run a compression test before making any decisions. 90k miles compression readings should be in the 155-165 range if she was maintained properly and not abused.

To rebuild the top end the engine has to come out and the cases have to be split to remove the pistons. Generally it is not considered worth the time and expense when there are hundreds of low mileage engines available.



Whiskerfish
2008 GL1800 Base

1978/9 Dressed daily rider 45k miles

1975 Nekid Noisy and Nasty
1975 Nekid in pieces parts
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 03:30 PM
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cldryder wrote:
Quote:
......

would appreciate comments on the following:

1. how hard is it to do a top end rebuild?
a - can you do it with the engine in the frame?
b - any special tools or expertise req'd? (I have rebuilt in-line 4's before)

2. are the cranks a failure item on hi mileage 4's?

3. any other questions I should be asking?
1- easy..basically just like any other overhead cam engine
1a- Yes, it can be done in the frame
1b- No special tools other than what you would use for metric cars.

2- No, never heard of a crank failure.. sometimes a rod, but not a crank.

3. Yes...
Why are you even considering rebuiding it? Normal life is maybe 250,000 miles?
Why not just service it (i.e. normal PM items) and ride it.

AKA "Jim"
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 03:43 PM
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My 1100 has just over 100,000 miles and and is rock solid. I did have to do a head gasket back in the summer and the cylenders looked great so I am not expecting any trouble for a very long time.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 05:21 PM
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161,000 here - Head's never off since I got it with 23,000 about 15 years ago. As long as it has strong, even compression and doesn't burn oil, you're good.

To better avoid ever pulling an engine - watch out for the stator wiring connector under LH side cover. It's not as common problem as 1200 but if it looks like it's been HOT, best to do a quality solder splice and waterproof insulation.

Past bikes in no particular order -

65 Yamaha 80
67 Yamaha 305 Scrambler
71 & 75 HD Sportster
75 HD FLH
72 Suzuki T500
74 Suzuki GT550
77 Suzuki GS750
72 & 81 BMW R75/5, R100RT
83 Yamaha XT200

Current bike:

81 Honda GL1100
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 10:22 PM
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Just agreeing with what's already been said. I wouldn't do anything to the engine unless there was something indicating a problem. If it will make you feel better do a compression check, and screw an oil pressure gauge onto the port to check idling oil pressure but odds are you won't find much to worry about especially since your bike has barely middling mileage. If it hasn't been abused it should be okay as is.

If your carbs are out of sync you may hear noises that sound a lot like rods knocking, this is common and will disappear with a good resynchronizing.

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None at present
Past 'Wings: GL1100, GL1200, GL1500, GL1800

Current BMW C650GT
Paul W.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 08:38 PM
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My 82' has 168k on it and was severly abused by PO. The engine knocks above 3000 rpm when hot, shows bearing material in the oil at each change, doesn't smoke or use oil but I am sure my main and rodbearings are toast.

Even so, it still starts right up and runs down the road! I have recently won an '83 motor on Ebay and will be swapping them out this winter.

1982 GL1100 Standard with Hondaline quick release bags

1981 Suzuki GN400

Started on a friends Suzuki 125 enduro!
Gerry
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