Bike Won't Crank - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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I have a GL 1100 interstate it just clicks at the starter relay I tried shorting the two posts togeather and nothing. I heard a popping noise at the relay before it would'nt start is my relay bad or what I have a fully charged battery and have power.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 09:23 AM
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Dont know much about the 1100 but I just had a similar prob with my '89 1500 turned out to be the reverse switch which I dont think you have.Start with the most obvious check with your starter button make sure the connections are clean and good and the kill switch is not shorting then work your way back along the circuit check the connections along the way check the fuses and relays until you get to the starter.Try wiring the starter directly to see if its spinning up put a jumper cable between the positive terminal on the battery and the starter. You can also just try rocking the bike back and forward when its in gear starting motor might just be stuck.This used to happen a lot with old cars. It is a lot of guess work and trial and error (as I found out) but someone out there will sort you out. Try get hold of a manual if you dont already have one there is probably one on this site to download.
Good luck

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 09:23 AM
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What model year is it?

Here's the starting schematic, you'll need to check for power at all points leading to the starter relay.







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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys it is a 1981 by the way will try your suggestions and see what happens
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 11:21 AM
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I had a similar problem on my GL1000. I eventually connected the starter directly to the battery (using jump cables) and still got nothing, sothat ensured methat the starter itselfwas wrong. It turned out that the brushes were badly worn. I replaced them and that solved the problem.

"There is no replacement for displacement"
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 12:07 PM
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1 Check battery condition, use a volt meter and Hydrometer to verify each cell. Charged and OK VDC 12.5-13.xx after sitting a couple of hours, S.G. at 1.2+. Voltage reading at 12.xx and higher does not = good battery, the cell condition must be checked because you can have voltage but no amps

2 Check the condition of the big wires and connections, any failing connection and that includes wires = too much resistance = too little push of current

3 Check the condition of the main and auxillary contacts on the starter relay. The contact must be good and complete, the whole contact is used to carry the large amperage at starting. Anything less than good contact = no start, poor conductivity, the starter draws 100A to torque over motor in cold condition. Minimum voltage during start up is 10.xx volts

4 Check grounds and main cables along with stud connection at starter, any failure = start problems

Before rippng apart verify the above, tools needed: Good volt ohm meter and the ability to understand the readings. A $10 hydrometer and knowledge how it works. Your senses to feel smell and see and knowledge to differentiate the input.

If the things listed in above are OK, then diagnostics to verify that each component works and in the proper order ie. kill switch, starter switch, in neutral, neutral switch.

Still problems and you are positive everything above checks out now look at the starter motor.

Take motor out, but remove battery + and - connections, check to FAQ for how to. The motor is a DC series wound so running it under no load does no good. In general is it clean if not clean it out, check brushes for length and if they are stuck, check commutator for segment spacing undercuts, check the ground connection, could be burnt from years of use.

Motor field coils should be cleaned and all copper checked for scrapes nicks, cuts, the com may have to be machined round. Bearings checked and spacers verified.

Check overall condition annd check for voltage leaks with a megger or a good DVM. To test run the shaft must be hooked to a load, a motor shop, any good rewind shop can test for you. It is a simple motor but strong by design.

If everything checks out electrically you may have a mechanical problem!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 10:14 PM
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I am having the same problem.. I don't thiink the solenoid will click unless the clutch switch Kill Switch and neutral switch are working.. All lights are working on mine also. So I will try the Starter motor jump with the sparkplugs out.. I suspect it is the brushes even though we don't have reverse. I understand we can take the starter off without removing the engine from the frame . the book says no , but it is not right a lot of times.. can we do this?

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2009, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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I agree that all the switches are good or you would not even get the clicking noise I heard a popping noise at my relay right before it stopped creanking. The starter can be pulled without pulling the engine although it is not easy I am trying everything but pulling starter at this point. I am thinking of replacing the relay as they are not real pricey. Will then go to starter if that does not do the trick.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2009, 03:05 PM
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. I am thinking of replacing the relay as they are not real pricey. Will then go to starter if that does not do the trick.
------------------
Before pulling the relay, jump the large contacts with large wire or piece of copper or steel and see if starter motor works as it should to verify. Try pulling solenoid (relay) off and inspecting the contacts, wire connections. Check all wire joints, do a ohmage test on all contacts, should read "0" ohms when closed.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info it turned out that the battery was low, charged it and the bike started up fine I was trying to make it a bigger problem than it was
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