GL 1200A odometer motor - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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After a year of riding with a broken odometer, I'm taking a rainy weekend to address this issue.

I ride an '87 Aspencade with the digital dash. All other gauges and items work perfectly. The tach, the trip meters, turn signal cancellation, speedometer are all fine.

I have the dash disassembled and have visually checked connections as they came apart. All connections were clean & snug when taken apart. I have the odometer disassembled and the gears spin freely, the numbers move when I spin the worm gear, and the shaft from the motor spins. When the unit is reassembled, nothing spins freely. I'm thinking that this is normal since it works off an electrical current.

Am I correct in my assumption? The motor is marked "Stepper Motor SM30-2001T", and "Fuji Electrochemical Co."

I need some guidance with this problem. Could the motor be defective & if so can it be replaced or do I need to look for another complete odometer?

Thanks,

Jim



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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 02:36 PM
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Hi Jim,
If the motor is part of the dash/guage pod, I think you're going to have to buy an entire unit. You should be able to get one on e-bay.
Honda parts lists the odometer as "odometer-total" but the diagram shows no motor. And it looks like it's part of the pod.
I've had to buy a three of those pods over the years. (Interstate model) nobody will part them.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 06:41 PM
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We had to buy the whole assy for my Dads 84 1200. Got it off ebay for 149.00. They can go a little lower, to over 250.00!



Good luck on it!

Served 823rd RED HORSE Unit \'83-\'88 USAF
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1981 GL1100 Standard
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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FOLLOW UP---
After tinkering with the odometer and using 1 small drop of WD-40, I reassembled everything, using dielectric grease on all electrical connections and made sure they were tight.
After installing a new Tulsa windshield, I finished up the project.
I took the bike for a test ride and to my pleasant surprise, the odometer now works!!
I'm guessing that either something was stuck in the odometer itself, or I had a bad connection.
I'm just glad the Goldwing Gods smiled on me!!

Thanks for the responses!!

This just goes to show that help is as close as your computer!

Cruisin' in Carolina!
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 07:05 PM
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Hmm, may try that on the extra unit I have here, glad I didn't toss it

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2009, 07:39 PM
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SCWinger wrote:
Quote:
FOLLOW UP---
After tinkering with the odometer and using 1 small drop of WD-40, I reassembled everything, using dielectric grease on all electrical connections and made sure they were tight.
After installing a new Tulsa windshield, I finished up the project.
I took the bike for a test ride and to my pleasant surprise, the odometer now works!!
I'm guessing that either something was stuck in the odometer itself, or I had a bad connection.
I'm just glad the Goldwing Gods smiled on me!!

Thanks for the responses!!

This just goes to show that help is as close as your computer!
Whatever made it work for you, Im glad it did

If you\'re lucky enough to be in the mountains, you\'re lucky enough.

Charlie
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 12:07 PM
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SCWinger: I'm having the same problem. Any advice on taking the odometer apart?

\'83 Wineberry Aspencade
owning and riding since \'62

You know you\'re getting old when your children insist that you report in during the course of your rides.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Gido,
The most time is spent actually getting to the odometer. On mine, I just followed the manual on how to remove the instrument cluster. Once you have the cluster out, you have to take off the lens,(4 screws) and remove the 2 screws on the rear that hold the odometer in place. Then, disconnect the 2 electrical connectors from the back of the cluster. Just for ease of access, I removed the digital cluster from the housing in order to reach the plug for the odometer. Once the odometer is free, there are 2 small screws that attach the motor to the rest of the assembly. Remove these 2 screws and the motor will separate from the housing.
You should now be able to spin the worm gear to make the odometer numbers move. Check the two gears for wear. If the worm gear doesn't spin the numbers, then you may be able to CAREFULLY work with them to free them up. The shaft on the motor should also spin freely.I used a drop of WD-40 on the shaft and spun it several times to work it down inside the motor.
It's just a slow process and takes a little patience.
Assembly is just a matter of reversing the process. I also used dielectric grease on all electrical connectors.
I hope this helps!!

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 03:40 PM
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Can you go back through the process and post pictures?

































Boy I can't wait for this answer!!!!:che eky1:

Served 823rd RED HORSE Unit \'83-\'88 USAF
\'Semper Ducimus\'
Red Knights Alabama Chapter 2
"Loyal to our Duty"
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1985 GL1200 LTD

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Absolutley------------The next time!!!!!!!

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