"creaking" sound from rear wheel - GL1500 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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I just got an '88 on the road. Put (my) first 100+ miles on it today, and notice a wheel-timed "creaking" sound - like a slow-moving doorwith tight hinges, coming from the rear wheel. It's especially noticeable at a slow roll, but you can hear it speed up with the wheel until the wind and engine noise drowns it out.

No noise if the bike is off the ground, and the wheel is rolled. The caliper isn't dragging, and it doesn't sound like a gear. There is no axial, or lateral play in the rear wheel. It doesn't "sing" like a bad bearing. There's no excessive heat at the diff., or atypical appearance/smell of gear-lube. The tire looks completely normal, andis not contacting the swingarm or anything else that I can see.

The sound doesn't change at all whether under power, braking, or coasting in neutral. Ithasn't gottenany worse/louder in 100 miles, and there are no associated vibrations.

I pushed the bike, while a friend creeper-surfed alongside listening - the sound is definitely coming from the rear wheel area. I'm gonna flip the luggage up for a look around back there tomorrow, but I was curious if anyone else has run into this one ?? It's weird.

6'-2", 210, old Geezer Glide and a big dumb grin.

Goldwings. . . if you're gonna have something between your legs, it might as well be enormous and smooth.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 12:29 AM
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Yup...I had the same noise. There is a drive coupler between the third member and the wheel. That coupler when dry will creak at a very consistent pace. It is not an issue unless the noise bothers you. If it is important enough, take the rear wheel apart. Pull the pinned hub out of the wheel and clean and lube the pins with moly lube. Also when you put the wheel back on do the same with the coupler. Don't be afraid to be a little generous with the moly lube. That should fix it.
Another option is to tolerate it until the next tire change. It's up to you. Good luck.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 04:42 AM
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Yes its the rear hub spines as redwing52 has said , I would remove the rear wheel and lube them now.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 08:06 AM
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If it is a 5 pin flange, the book says "Do not lubricate the pins" The inserts in the rubber dampers are made of aluminum, and the steel on aluminum provides all the lubrication necessary. Apparently a lubricant-such as moly 60 willslowly break down the aluminum. This is more than likely what has happened.



Now if it is a 6 pin flange-set in steel inserts--lubricate away. This has been covered in the archives as well.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Guys. I didn't think it sounded life-threatening. Don't want any unnecessary wear on the drive splines, though. I was hoping someone else had heard this goofy sound.

Makes perfect sense, as I've found many signs of neglect, and douchebaggery on this project, since dragging her home. Someone probably "cleaned up" the splines and hub, then put it together dry - or left the old dried-up moly paste in there.

My wheel balancing equipment should arrive this week. I'll break it down then, and check the rear wheel balance while I've got it apart. Thanks again, fellers.

6'-2", 210, old Geezer Glide and a big dumb grin.

Goldwings. . . if you're gonna have something between your legs, it might as well be enormous and smooth.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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AAAGGHHHH !!! It's back !! It won't leave me alooooone !!!



I've had both wheels off, and balancedsince - bearings, brakes, everything isfine. Completely sanitized the drive coupling, diff splines and wheel, and treated the splines, pins, and bushing sleevesto some nice, fresh Moly 60. Changed the diff oil, just for grins - nothing remarkable there, either. Just got it on the road tonite, after a fork overhaul - and the noise is back !!



I don't get it - what's left ?? It's not a violent sound - but not RIGHT either. I like my 'Wings nice and quiet, the way God intended.



6'-2", 210, old Geezer Glide and a big dumb grin.

Goldwings. . . if you're gonna have something between your legs, it might as well be enormous and smooth.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 10:29 PM
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It could be dry splines at the front end of the drive shaft.When the bike's on it's wheels the shaft is pushed onto the front spline just a bit more than when the swing arm is unloaded. That might be enough to make the noise when the bike is on the ground but not when jacked up. You can pry back the swing arm boot and work some Moly Paste onto the outputshaft splines.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 11:09 PM
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could it be something silly like the tire "itching" on the wheel in the bead area? maybe deflate tire and spray some wd around bead and re-inflate to see what happens.



Does it occur once per tire revolution or several times? once would be someting with tire/wheel where several would indicate driveline items
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2009, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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It is definitely timed with the rotation of the wheel, not the driveshaft. That's why the dry drive coupling pins made perfect sense to me. I'm not pulling that wheel again 'till tire time.



The rear tire has maybe 5-7k miles left on it - looks like I'll just ride it out.

6'-2", 210, old Geezer Glide and a big dumb grin.

Goldwings. . . if you're gonna have something between your legs, it might as well be enormous and smooth.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2009, 07:31 PM
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I have also been experiencing an intermittent sound that seems to be coming from the rear also. I wouldn't exactly call it a 'creaking' sound as it is more 'metal to metal'or 'scraping'and it is really difficult to describe both the sound and where it is coming from? At first I thought it was a brake sound but I replaced the pads, changed rear end fluid greased the spines on the hub with Moly and put the thing back together.I thought this had fixed the problem but it has reappeared? Now I have replaced timing belts and both tensioners as they were a little rough.This had no effect and the sound was still there. Asthe original poster stated, I have been unable to create the sound when the bike is on the centerstand; even running the engine through all gears, hitting both brakes, etc.Clutching the engine and backing off throttlehas no effect on the sound so I don't believe the problem is the engine. Just recently however I added some air pressure to the rear, which would affect the distance the splines extend into the coupler, and I believe the sound is not as frequent so I think your suggestion of 'pulling back the boot' and greasing the driveshaft splines is my next optionHow do you go about 'Pulling back the Boot" to get some Moly on the splines?
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