I am looking for some advise on a problem I am having with my stereo\intercom
headset. Since I installed the Clarion II in my 1100 I have had a nagging static noise in my headset that increases with the RPMs of the engine. It will almost go away when I flip the switch that completes the ground to my engine fan but come right back if I switch it off.
I have added some lights and things and when I installed the stereo I replaced the entire wiring harness. I did find a relay in the old harness but did not install it in the new setup. I have some of the lights grounded to the chassis.
This problem became really acute when I added a hook up for my iPhone that plugs in to the passenger's headset plug. The phone works great when sitiing still idling but the noise is there. It gets so bad when I begin running taht the person I am talking to cannot hear me over the noise. I just purchased a specially designed hookup for the iPhone that is an FM modulator that plugs in to the antenna line.
Now for the questions.
Where is the noise coming from?
Would adding the relay help?
Where would it go?
Will the FM modulator help?
Should the grounded lights be grounded somewhere other than the chassis?
It is regulator rectifier noise.. the larger the load (like with the fan) the less the noise.. Make sure you have all the filters that the CII was supposed to have.. I haven't done it, but I understand there are "a bunch".. Hoepfully someone who has actually done it will chime in soon..
I've never seen or found any mention in the install instructions of any filters to install for the Clarion 2 systems.
Now a days I run my driving lights all the time as they add enough load to offset the noise about 95%. Even with resistor style plug wires and caps I also have a little ignition noise once in a while.
Since most of the audio components are grounded through the frame as is the reg/rectifier I'm thinking of running a grounding block up into the fairing straight from the neg post of the battery and ground all the audio that way to see if it would help with the noise.
That is as soon as I find a decent, compact grounding block.
I've never seen or found any mention in the install instructions of any filters to install for the Clarion 2 systems.
Now a days I run my driving lights all the time as they add enough load to offset the noise about 95%. Even with resistor style plug wires and caps I also have a little ignition noise once in a while.
Since most of the audio components are grounded through the frame as is the reg/rectifier I'm thinking of running a grounding block up into the fairing straight from the neg post of the battery and ground all the audio that way to see if it would help with the noise.
That is as soon as I find a decent, compact grounding block.
There is a significant difference (several ohms) between the ACC terminal ground and the ground used by the audio system (at least on my bike). This was a major cause of noise when I was implementing my bluetooth phone interface. When I finally abandoned the ACC terminal sourced ground and grounded my interface directly to the chassis of the component terminal, the noise went away.
So I suspect running a good ground from neg battery terminal to component terminal chassis, to rectifier ground, to frame, and anywhere else you can think of, might help a little bit.
Where did you get this hookup? I'm researching how to integrate my iPhone into my GL1200A, and it would be nice if I didn't have to create adapters (like I'm planning).
If I can use my phone on the bike I'd have my GPS, mp3 player, and phone in one device. I'm sure I'll have some whining problems when i get there, so maybe then I'll have an answer for ya.
How do I get rid of ignition noise in my CB?
We always recommend grounding the unit to the frame and powering the 12v from the tail light. This has proven to be the quietest setup. The most important thing is the ground wire to the frame.
How do I get rid of rectifier noise in my headsets on my GL-1100 or GL-1200? Rectifier noise is a constant "buzz" that is either reduced or eliminated by applying the brakes. We no longer offer a filter for this but the filter was basically a grounding harness that took the 2 green wires from the rectifier and tied them to the frame at the rectifier ran to the negative accessory terminal, wing nut on air filter, frame bolt on seat brace, and then to negative terminal of battery. Honda offers what we refer to as a "white band" replacement rectifier that is $170 that will help but not totally eliminate the "buzz"
Don't know why I haven't posted this before since I found this over a month ago, just haven't tried it yet. Right off the Sierra Electronics website.
How do I get rid of rectifier noise in my headsets on my GL-1100 or GL-1200?
Rectifier noise is a constant "buzz" that is either reduced or eliminated by applying the brakes. We no longer offer a filter for this but the filter was basically a grounding harness that took the 2 green wires from the rectifier and tied them to the frame at the rectifier ran to the negative accessory terminal, wing nut on air filter, frame bolt on seat brace, and then to negative terminal of battery. Honda offers what we refer to as a "white band" replacement rectifier that is $170 that will help but not totally eliminate the "buzz"
The first suspect in head set noises is GROUNDS. If they are bad anywhere on the bike the noise can wind up in your headset. I had a lot of noise in my headset and painstakingly examined and clean ALL connections and it got a little better. Sierra Electronics used to sell a kit that would help. It was basically a kit that provided additional ground wires for the R/R and from the air cleaner threaded post. You may be able to find something about it on their website. I added additional grounds to the R/R and it helped a little. Coincidentally I just finished replacing a bad coil on my 1100. THE HEADSET NOISE IS GONE.
There are many places on any vehicle that can cause disturbance. The disturbance can come from a rogue current or a bad connection. If you don't have good grounds then the current that leaves a circuit that doesn't havea good ground will wander into other circuits like your headset. Mine was primarily from the poor continuity in the coil. Since the coil creates a high voltage current when a connection inside it goes bad the current will arc across the bad connection and cause some kind offield that gets into the audio wires and causes static. This field or surge will normally be found in a device that handles higher current flows. The R/R, Coils, Plug Wires, Plugs andStator are the usual suspects.
Try disconnecting the R/R and see if she still has noise. If its still there run resistance test from the plug boots #1to #4 and then#2to #3. On an 80 - 81 you should get around 32K ohms on an 82 - 83 you should get around 27K ohms.
Sierra no longer sells that adapter kit but I did post their instructions on how to make your own.
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