GL1500 hard to start! Except after a hard start...? - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-29-2009, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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I will try my best to explain without writing a book.



I searched and found simular problems but not exactly like my problem. When I go to start my 1988 GL1500 in the morning or after a day or so of sitting it wont start. I put the key in, switch it on, choke it, hit the starter switch and I hear the starter enguage and then umph! the whole system locks up. I then try again and the same thing. I can say that the solenoid is working and the Batter is charged and showing 12.6 - 13.2 volts. If I keep bumping the switch it might finally crank up...maybe. I have noticed that the wiring to the solenoid will get hot if I try too many times. Also the starter motor does NOT spin freely during this. In other words the starter cluch is working properly as far as I can tell. It is almost like compression is stopping the engine from turning over. I am not sure but maybe the starter is weak. However.. After I finally get it started I can turn it off and then after the problem start I can crank the bike all day long with a fast strong assertive start without problems. It is just the initial start sequence that is trouble. Weird.



Ask me questions, I will try to answer with my limited abilities.



Thanks,

Roger

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post #2 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-29-2009, 10:46 PM
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i guess shes hydrolocking
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post #3 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-29-2009, 10:47 PM
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If, you left it parked on the side stand.....
There is a possiblity that a carb leaked fuel into the lower cylinders. Prove this right or wrong by pulling plugs from the lower bank and hit the start button. Fuel sprays out, yes. No fuel, then fuel lock on compression is not the problem.

Next, I would take a voltmeter. Even do this first....

Measure the voltage at the starter terminal while cranking with the throttle wide open. should be a minimum of 10.5, more is better. this is a test of how much voltage loss there is between the battery terminals and the starter terminal.

If the volts are way low, then move the voltmeter prod to the starter solenoid and measure on each side of it. how much voltage drop across the solenoid? Tiny bit? it is ok. A lot? it is bad.

Divide the wiring into sections and measure the voltage at each point. that way you can divide your problem into smaller chunks.

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post #4 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-29-2009, 10:50 PM
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let it sit for the duration you describe and pull the plugs out the next time you try to start it and see if fuel spurts out...if it does your carbs need cleaning or need to come out to be gone over...do not try this again or you could bend a rod if you haven't already....provided the starter is working ok....and it will get hot trying to overcome the hydlolic lock
P.S.....after you clear the cylinders that is why it has no more issues for the day

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post #5 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-29-2009, 10:51 PM
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The Help Index is a good place to look for hints also.

Click on this Index link name: Starting problem solved on GL1500


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum4/65075.html


~ John
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post #6 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-29-2009, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your input. I will try all these things. The last 2 links of your post AZgl1500 seem to be dead but I will look in the help index also.

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post #7 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-30-2009, 02:27 AM
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Starters can get to a point were they draw too many amps(brushes worn down,inner bushings need greased) also causing the starter solinoid to get warm drawing alot of amps through it. Causing a lock-up or non-movement within. Once warmed up seem to work better. Almost like grease inside starts to melt and run into the areas that need more lubrication.

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post #8 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-30-2009, 09:09 AM
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mzandmywing wrote:
Quote:
Starters can get to a point were they draw too many amps(brushes worn down,inner bushings need greased) also causing the starter solinoid to get warm drawing alot of amps through it. Causing a lock-up or non-movement within. Once warmed up seem to work better. Almost like grease inside starts to melt and run into the areas that need more lubrication.
+1....
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post #9 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-30-2009, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will add this to my list of checks. I wont be able to mess with it until at least Weds. so It will have plenty of time to set, LOL. You guys are why I love this site so much. Great information shared freely! Thanks!

If you have other ideas I will accept them and add them to my list.

Roger

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post #10 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-30-2009, 10:08 AM
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I may be mistaken...... someone can correct me if I am. Isn't it true a cold engine will have greater compression than it does after it has been running? I think the starter is getting boarderline on strength. After you run your bike the starter can spin it ok....... just the first cold start gives if fits. Fuel leaking by is a very strong possibility, resulting in a hydrolock. But you should also notice diminished fuel level on your tank guage, and/or evidence of fuel in the crankcase oil. How long has the starter been in service......... a good lube, cleaning, and brushes may be in order.

Best of luck to you.

Don't want a deal with alot of flibiddy-flab or mumbo-jumbo...........

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