Best way to clean rust from 1100 fuel tank and which carb to clean? - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-27-2009, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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I am ready to start working on my Goldwing and have alot of rust in gas tank. I have been reading some of the better ways to do this...what do you guys think? Should I find a tank that is free of rust on ebay, do the BB in tank thing, white vinager or the electrolisis? I am looking for the best easiest way to do this, if there is such a thing. Also going to do the carbs, however they were just gone through about a year ago and the wing idles great but when riding it misses and is not running good at all. Now, the right exhaust (when sitting on bike) will pop every now and then when idling until it warms up and then dissapears. Does this mean that I need only to go through a certain carb or all of them?

Thank you
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-27-2009, 12:15 PM
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After rebuilding my carbs, on the '76, I chased similar problems. Carbs r & r 5 times after rebuild. I was instructed to switch plug wires and found the problem. The plug wire on #1 cyc had burnt and was arcing. Mine was easier to diagnose the miss due to having HD twin mufflers installed w/o crossover. Follow Randakk's tech tip and get everything else top condition before rebuilding the carbs.

I also removed, cleaned, and had tank lined. I used salt water and a DC current for rust removal. I removed petcock and sender unit and taped up the holes with duct tape. I believe the positive applied to the tank itself. Negative applied to a sacrificial rod inserted into salt water. The instructions I had, said to use 10 amp charge. My battery charger would only put out 2 amp for about 2 and 1/2 minutes before the thermal coupler would break and about 3 minutes later it would reset and cycle again. Two hours later I dumped the saltwater and took the tank to a radiator shop for lining. The operator stated that he had never lined a tank the looked that good.

While the tank was in the shop, only about 20 hours, I "opened" the fuel sending unit and cleaned it. I spent about 20 minutes doing the cleaning and made the non-op sender work like a new unit. Use caution and don't break anything. I scraped the build-up from the hard metal portions and used break cleaner on the windings.

Be sure to flush the fuel system and replace the fuel filter before restarting the engine. Remove the the fuel line from the pump to the carb and crank it over for a few revolutions. If chasing the other possible problems solves your miss, your carbs will not be plugged by rust in the fuel system. Sorry for the long post, and yes I can talk all day! Good luck. Keep us informed.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:36 PM
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Very good post Terry.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:57 PM
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Get clean tank on ebay.....

Had to on my 1200 glad I went that route. 3hrs and was done.

Don't want a deal with alot of flibiddy-flab or mumbo-jumbo...........

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 03:03 AM
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I used saltwater electrolosis too.Very simple if you have a 10 amp battery charger.Cheap to do.Or the best of the best may be Rustelco.Expensive!!!!! but really did a marvelous job.The tank looked like new.

Electrolosis works great but sure bubbles up a mess of rust onto the driveway.Both ways are convenient because you can leave the tank in.A wet/dry vac is a must if your tanks drain plug is rusted on.

Some have used white vineagar such as myself.Its rather slow to dissolve the rust.I became impatient and went with the electolosis.CLR is another of many rust cleaners.I just wanted to avoid taking the tank out of the bike.

To coin EX-LAX'S catch phrase,"thorough but gentle"are words to live by when working with caustic chemicals and painted surfaces.


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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 05:22 AM
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If you decide to just replace the tank let me know. I have one sitting in my basement you can have for $25 + shipping.

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