GL1200 fuel pump RELAY test - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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newby- just bought 84 1200 driving home(100miles) maxed at 68mph. worked through fuel filter(new)air filter(new) plugs(new) plugs checked and are firing nice blue spark. did pump test cold and warm 800+ml. still no power on road and a bit of backfiring but not excessive. i checked the relay per the forum research but there is continuity from the white wire to ground with the sw. off and on(with the relay plugged in and not plugged in). with the engine idling there is pulsing continuity. with the relay disconnected there is still continuity from white to ground. if this is a test of the relay and i already have continuity from the wht. wire to groundhow does plugging the relay into the circuit test it? i'm not a good mechanic and this is my first large bike. i hope to figure this out without taking it in for service. carbs rebuilt 08' by previous owner. new plug wires last yr.



btw is an off the shelf relay available? or just go honda?

"the clock talks loud".
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 12:19 PM
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You might try this thread https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/88348.html it ended up being the diaphragms put in the carbs the wrong way. My guess is you are pumping fuel or you would never get to 68mph. There may be some question to how much fuel you are pumping. My guess is the relay is fine.

03 Honda XR650L
84 GL1200 Aspencade

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 12:39 PM
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As you've probably noticed, the pump only works with the engine cranking on the starter or actually running. If it is giving a good output from the pump it sounds further into the carbs.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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thanks, the prev. owner rebuilt carbs 08' and was driving it since then. he is coming by on sat. i may wait to see what he says before pulling the carbs. still wondering why i have continuity on that wht. lead of the relay?



what about the backfire? carbs still?

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 03:44 PM
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I don't have the wiring diagram handy, if you can post a link or the information to what you are using for your testing it may help. I found this in the maintenance manual.

Turn the ignition switch off. Disconnect the fuel
pump relay from the coupler.
Short the white and black wire terminals at the fuel
pump relay coupler with a jumper wire.
Disconnect the fuel pump out let line at the 3-way
joint and hold a graduated beaker under the tube.
Turn the ignition switch on and let fuel flow into
the beaker for 5 seconds, then turn the ignition
switch off. Multiply the amount in the beaker by
12 to determine the fuel pump flow capacity per
minute.

FUEL PUMP FLOW CAPACITY:
500 cml (16.9 US OZ, 17.6 Imp ezl/minute
minimum
4-

backfiring is probably form the carb setup too. Although the air cut off valve can cause backfire on deceleration.

03 Honda XR650L
84 GL1200 Aspencade

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 04:21 PM
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Generic relay test, whether contact arrangements are N.O. normally open or N.C. normally closed. The normally condition usually refers to when there is no power to the relay, when the relay sits there doing nothing.

Relays have a component that enables them to operate and use springs or gravity to make them go back to their normal state. If power is required to operate them both ways the relay has two coil assemblies in then 1 to close the armature, 2 to open the armature, but usual relays operate with power on an armature coil to magnetically pull the relay in to operate the contact.

Contact arrangement is built in so that a N.C. contact opens and a N.O. contact closes. Some relays operate their prospective contacts all at the same time or make some contacts change their state early while others change state later.

Some relays are built to operate with time, so some are on-delay and some are off -delay.

On delay---A delay takes place upon the relay activation at some future time.
Off delay---Relay is energized or de-energized and at a future time the off set of contacts work.

With all this in mind the testing and verifying of a relay requires that you the operator knows what type of relay you have. But with electric coil type relays the coil becomes an electromagnet and needs a ferrous metal to magnetize;the magnetic properties cause the attraction of metal to the electromagnet and then the contacts move from one position to the other.

Contacts must be in good shape, not welded shut, not blown apart.
The relay must be able to freely move the movable parts to the fixed part.
The contacts cannot touch each other, nor should the attached wires
Wired contacts need to be secure, frayed wires are no good
Plug in style relays must make good contact to their matching plugs
Covered relays must not interfere with relay operation
Relays draw 3x the current to draw in and settle down upon magnetically sealing
Some relays are wired with holding contacts so when they are energized they remain in, these types have a stop button to de-energize them.
Relays can be powered from the same source or from a secondary source
Relays can operate large currents or small currents

These are electro-mechanical devices that have their counterparts in electronic devices that wok similarly but are considered solid state because they do not have moving parts but they do have moving electrons.

Hope this helps with troubleshooting those pesky relays

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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i was going by a post here on the forum stating that the relay white wire should not have continuity to ground but it does and with the key on it has continuity but at idle it has a pulsing continuity. there was also a diagram showing the test. i appriciate all the info but being mechanically challenged i didn't follow all of it. i don't know if the relay is n.o. or n.c.

i did the fuel pump flow test and it was good.

"the clock talks loud".
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 05:46 PM
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Really, all that matters here is that with the engine running (or cranking) you get a good flow of fuel out of the pump. The rest is nice to know but not need to know. If you are getting a good strong supply of fuel then the problem must lie within the carbs I would say.

Steve W
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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thats where i'm headed next! maybe i should take a ride on a useable bike(vstar) oh, did i say that?

"the clock talks loud".
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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well i pulled the slides and diaphrams they were all intact. the covers on 2 of them were somewhat loose. when i reinstalled them and tightened them the engine ran slightly better. while removing the intake tubes prior to carb removal i found 1 bolt loose and it looked like the o-ring was slightly damaged. i have the carbs out and did not find any disconnected hoses. next step is to go through the carbs.

"the clock talks loud".
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