how to compression test an 1100 motor, properly ? - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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I would like to have some straight info on how to do a proper compression test. I have the opportunity to get an 1100 engine from a friend of mine and I would like to know how to test the motor right.

This engine has sat for awhile and when it was compression tested after testing to see if it would even turn over. The results where 130 to 140 approx. This was not done at operating temperature and not done with putting oil down the cylinders. I do not know how the carbs are set at all.

To me putting oil in the cylinders does not give a proper reading. So what is the proper thing to do here on an engine that has been sitting for a year or so, to find out what is really going on? Could the compression go up with the engine being used again full time?

Thanks
LLF.



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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 05:48 PM
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http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...l.jsp?id=16170 http://www.automedia.com/Engine_Comp...cr20050801cc/1 Hope this helps.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 05:49 PM
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http://www.automedia.com/Engine_Comp...cr20050801cc/1 http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...l.jsp?id=16170 Hope this helps.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 08:08 PM
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To test compression, you need a fully charged battery & a healthy starter. All 4 plugs out & kill switch to engine off. Choke off & throttle must be wide open. Spin the engine over with tester screwed into one of the 4 cylinders. spin it until the needle does not climb any more. Do this with all 4 cylinders & record your numbers. You should be within 10 pounds of each other. When you squirt oil into the cylinders you are testing for bad rings. if your compression rises dramatically your rings are worn. if it really does not go up that much & your compression is abnormally low, you have leaking valves.
If the engine has been sitting, compression might be a little low on test. once you get it running & put a few tanks of fuel through it, it might go up by 10 or 20 pounds. Wing engines are long life machines. Keep your oil clean & you will turn the clock 4 or 5 times!

If ya cant fix it with a hammer, it's prolly lectrical
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 08:14 PM
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 08:19 PM
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Could have sworn thats what the links I postedend up stating with the exception of ten percent not ten pounds variance.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 08:49 PM
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vtxcandyred wrote:
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Could have sworn thats what the links I postedend up stating with the exception of ten percent not ten pounds variance.
Sorry bout that buddy, I didn't click your link!

If ya cant fix it with a hammer, it's prolly lectrical
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 08:58 PM
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No prob. I do that all the time. I think its sometimes better to have it in a spelled out black and white print. I sometimes have a hard time making out what is in a link.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 08:24 AM
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low level flight wrote:
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To me putting oil in the cylinders does not give a proper reading.

Adding a small amount of oil simulates the heated expansion of compression rings on a cold engine.

Once you get it up and going to NOT, you'll have slight differences from your initial readings if you were to follow this path.

More noticeable ona leakdown test than a quick and dirty compression check.
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