My new 82 Aspencade - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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I'm chasing ignition problem on this bike. It sat for awhile before I found it and,have no history on it. I got it home and cleaned out the fuel pump,new fuel lines and filter,and it fired right up. Removed carbs and cleaned,replaced needles and seats,set floats. Now I have developed an intermittant spark issue. Coils are new,spark units test good as per Honda manual,along with the pulsers.It ran crummy with eye burning exhaust,unburnt fuel. Of course I suspected wrong float height,bad needles etc.. but, I hooked up an induction timing light just to check that there was spark.Low and behold,I have intermittant spark jumping around to all plugs. Weird ! any thoughts ?
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 07:43 PM
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bad ground, dirty pickups, with timing light hooked up try moving wires around to see if you have a bad connection

some of my past rides:
197? hd z90 sold
197? honda 500-4 traded this to get another engine for my first wing after the belt went within like 100 miles of buying it
1976 gl1000 dressed with all vetter sold
1985 gl1200 interstate sold
1986 gl1000 naked (traded this one to get the work done on my gl1200 sei
1983 magna vf750c (sold)
2010 vw trike (still trying to complete this one)

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 09:02 PM
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Pull the coils off clean them up and look them over very carefully for any splits, cracks or stress points. If you see any of the above your coils are probably leaking and need to be replaced. As a TEMPORARY fix/diagnostic test either wrap the coils in three or four layers of black tape or "tool dip" them and see if the problem changes. If the problem goes away or is reduced then you'll know the coils are leaking.

Also look at the frame on the left (clutch) side for signs of a tar like substance. This will be the pot material from the igniters, from them overheating and melting the pot material.

Another thing to look at is the wires them selves. pull the plug boots off the ends of the wires one at a time (to avoid sequencing issues) and get a good look at the wires where they connect to the plug boots. If there is corrosion trim back ΒΌ inch at a time until you get nice clean wire, then reconnect the plug boots.

Hope there is something helpful here. Good Luck

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 09:02 PM
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Welcome to the World's Greatest Goldwing Site leanjoe!

I suspect the float valves. I've had problems with aftermarket float valves and needles in my old shop. About the only good needle valves seem to be those made by Mother Honda. Pricey but good.

I used to bench check the float valves for leaks by making a temporary fuel tank out of a can or whatever would hold a quart or two of gas. With the tank hanging about three feet above the carbs sitting on the bench and connected with a piece of tubing to the carbs, remove the carb tops and the CV valves. Then fill the temporary tank with gas and see if any fuel comes up out of the jets where the CV needles were. Gas should not flow from any of the four. If it does that float valve isn't sealing. One other thing about the 1100 floats is you need to hang the carbs with the float hinges upper most and the floats just hanging down. Then tip the carb deck until the float tang just touches the spring loaded pin in the needle without depressing it. You can't adjust these carbs by the more common method with them turned upside down or they will be set too low (fuel level too high)

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Past 'Wings: GL1100, GL1200, GL1500, GL1800

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