carb sync and air mix screws - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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does anyone know if there is a good tutorial on how to sync the carbs other than in the Clymer manual i have? Also i know the 1.5 turns is just a starting point on the idle mix screws but how do you adjust once installed and how much difference do they make on /with the carb sync. I just cant seem to get the sync right . thanks

jeff

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 09:27 AM
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Synch first..then use tach to drop idle on each carb with the air mix..which actually is fuel mix...then check sycn again..two completely different issues..synch matches air flow of each carb so it's even at idle..mixture screw adjust fuel flow at idle by watching idle and when it drops a bit you set screw back a bit.

There is a how to in the index..and ref. section.

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewto...?f=11&t=81

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 09:35 AM
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Getting the sync "right" is just a matter of practice and patience.
Depending on how far each carb is off from the primary and how stable your tool is makes a difference as well.

I use a set of gauges and they'll jump a lot until I get the three carbs pretty close. Once I'm closing in I start seeing all the needles settle down and pointing to common numbers.

Like RB said, set your idle last and use your tach.

Main thing is not to rush each step, let the engine settle after each adjustment.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 11:17 AM
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morram wrote:
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Getting the sync "right" is just a matter of practice and patience. ..
Yup.. and you can work yourself into a box that is hard to get out of easily if not careful.. (getting a throttle plate too far closed)

not to explain.. but to avoidthese problems, I turn up the idle (with the idle screw) to at least 2000 rpm.. sync as best I can without worrying about rpm... then turn it back down to idle (about 1000) and do a fine tune with the sync.. avoids getting any throttle plate closed

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 03:08 PM
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Make certain you have no air sucking from anywhere, especially the O-rings at the manifolds.

A small vac leak will make it look good one moment, then bad on another moment, getting you to start all over again.

Patience is good too.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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ok- all good advice. I did finally learn to establish a basline reading off of 3 then sync 1 to it. Then sync 2 to 4 using the middle screw and then left side to right side using the adjuster behind 4. Problem is - when i get to 4 and try to adjust the idle runs away with itself. Also- idle mix screws- go with 1.5 turns out and do not touch them? I am still having low readings on 1 and 3 header pipes. Ugh! Thanks
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 10:24 PM
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the 1.5 turn outs are just your base starting point for the idle mixture screws..You still need to do the idle drop procedure after getting the carb sync done.

And if you haven't read the idle drop procedure in the manual then either you've skipped over that section or you don't have a good manual.

When ever I sync carbs and the idle starts to creep up on me then I adjust it back down, then continue till done. I may have to adjust it half a dozen times before I'm done.




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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 10:26 PM
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#9 Man wrote:
Quote:
ok- all good advice. I did finally learn to establish a basline reading off of 3 then sync 1 to it. Then sync 2 to 4 using the middle screw and then left side to right side using the adjuster behind 4. Problem is - when i get to 4 and try to adjust the idle runs away with itself. Also- idle mix screws- go with 1.5 turns out and do not touch them? I am still having low readings on 1 and 3 header pipes. Ugh! Thanks
jeff
81 rebuild
Use Jim's 2000rpm trick.



Are the carbs from an '81 as well? If not, make sure you start with the mixture screw adjustment for the carbs you have. You will have to do an idle drop procedure to get those screws set to optimum.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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yes, they are 81 carbs and i started with the 1.5 turns out. I will probably attempt another sync this weekend. I will look for the idle drop procedure in my Clymer manual.
thanks

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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i'm really dismayed. # 1 and #3 cylinders continue to plauge this bike. Enough that i would just check and see what diff it made if i just removed the sync adjustment screws while it was running. Well, basically NONE. These are the cylinders that continue to run on the cold side # 3 under 200 and # 1 around 100 F. Did the same thing when i adjusted the other side and it killed the bike.

What besides carbs could be causing this. Fat spark on both cylinders, Cleaned pilot jets recently. Would readjusting the valves again help? I just dont know where to turn.

Jeff

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