Gl1500 stalls when rideing restart after sitting - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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GL1500 1988 i just bought this bike It will start run fine. I can get on it and ride for 10 min or an hr then it will start to sputter and then die. I can look at the fuel filter it will be empty. If I sit for 10 min or so the bike will restart i can ride again for 10 min to hr then dies again. I was told it could be the filter, petcock. no go still dies, was told the cap vent could be plugged got a new one , no still died. I ordered a fuel cut off relay but it is back ordered for 3 weeks. I ordered a fuel pump to change it out also. any help. I was told bank censor, I called dealer they said no recall, I took a copy of the recall he said no recall but would call honda. Returned my call said to bring him bike so he can photo the vin and the frame to show it has not been maked as listed in recall. I have read throught passed post most all say the same things I have listed above. any help..

1988 GL 1500
2002 Ultra Classic
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 02:29 PM
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I think the bank angle sensors on Goldwings cuts out the electrics dead, no sputtering. If your fuel filter is dry, the problem is fuel related and not bank angle sensor. You say "I was told it could be the filter, petcock", does that mean you replaced the petcock?

Tom, GL1800


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 02:43 PM
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If the filter is empty, then you're likely looking at the pump or its circuit. If you're getting the longer rides out of it while the tank is fresh and full, then I'd jump to the conclusion that the pump and/or its strainer is suspect.

The Petcock comes after the pump, so shutting it off while the pump is running will generally leave the filter full as your carbs starve for fuel.

A stopped-up cap would leave a vacuum in the tank and an empty fuel filter when your pump could no longer pull strong enough to overcome the vacuum in the tank. Open the gas cap, you'll be able to feel the vacuum (cap kinda sucks in), then try to start again while you watch the filter (with the cap still off) - if you get pump-action and a start (will take a bit to refil the floatbowls), thn your cap is suspect.

The filter media is on the outlet side of the filter housing, so if the filter is plugged (and the pump running) you'll have a full-looking filter while your carbs starve.

There is an Airtex (aftermarket car-part) pump that can save a few $$$ on replacing the pump, if you're not already too far down that road...

You could bypass the fuel-pump cut-off relay and/or the BAS to see if you run well that way (typically, a failing BAS will allow you to restart as soon as you've cycled the ignition key fully off, then back on; similarly, the "typical" fail mode for the relay is to fail on shut-down and not 'pull-in' for the next start.)


Each time you turn the ignition key to the "run" position, the fuel pump should run for about 1-2.5 seconds. If you bring some 3/8" fuel line with you (for your next failure) you could use this feature to check for proper output from the pump pull the outlet side of the fuel filter, conenct your "spare" hose there and run the other end back into the filler hole (gas cap), then turn the key to run... You should hear the relay click and the pump humm for a second or so; fuel should flow outta the hose (not like a garden hose, less than a half-cup total). May not help much, but it'll give you a look to see if your pump and control circuit is working at that exact instant.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 02:50 PM
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See…. we say there's a recall. Your dealer says 'no recall'. You even have a copy to show him... dealer contacts Honda. Now there's a recall. How does that happen.

Some of us on this site have more information and experience than many dealers have. We also have experience on our side since most dealer personnel weren't born when Honda started making Gold Wings.

This reeks of one of two things. Either the fuel pump has gone bad or the pulse generators might be bad. I'm leaning to the fuel pump because you noticed the fuel filter was dry. Many pumps will heat up as the fuel level gets lower. Start to fail…. then after cooling down a bit start to pump. Heat up and the cycle starts all over again. If you have a full tank the pump might take longer to heat up because the pump is inside the tank.

I had this same thing happen to my 88 but it only lasted a few minutes after the initial failure.
I rebuilt mine with a kit I bought on Ebay. It's worked great for me ever since.
This is personal experience and not a guarantee of your future performance.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...ld+kit&_sacat=

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 03:47 PM
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i had the bank angle senser problem and it does no splutter it is like you hit the kill switch

sit back and relax on the straight bits
drag your pegs on the twistie bits
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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ya I was just told the bank censor would cut power to pump then when fuel runs out from line it dies.
(satan) yes I tried the cap then just bought a new one, I ordered the E11000 john deer pump as listed in other post on this site. just waiting to come in to change it out. I will try the bypass next week when I get back home from work I did also order a new fuel cut off relay.

one of the times it died we did pull the pump out and turned on the key and no fuel came out, lol put it all together then it started and ran crazy

1988 GL 1500
2002 Ultra Classic
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 05:06 PM
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As akwright posts -- the BAS drops all the ignition voltage (IIRC even the temp/fuel gauges) so the bike dies DEAD. The BAC controls the IGN/Cruise relay is actually "up stream" from the kill switch -- so everything that the kill switch kills dies... as well as the ability to crank the engine (pull fuse 11, IGN Start Cruise - all of that dies with the BAS locked-out.

The BAS will drop your bike like a stone (no spark, or fuel, or much of anything else)


From what you're saying here - it really does soun like the pumop -- if you had it in hand, then it ran well for a bit -- the vane-type pumps will loose their brushes and or bearing just like other motors and a little jiggle or cleaning will let em run for "just a bit" longer...


My fingers are crossed for ya!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 07:37 PM
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The bank angle switch will also reset right away even if the damping fluid has leaked out. If the bike goes suddenly dead and will restart after turning the key off and on it's likely the bank angle sensor. If turning the key off and on doesn't do it it's not. The first thing I try when suspecting fuel starvation is to loosen the fuel tank cap and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't it's not the venting system. The fuel pump can be tested by disconnecting the hose, aiming it at a can and seeing how much flow comes from the pump. You can also bypass the vacuum petcock to see if that's a cause of your problem.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all input, ya it restarts AFTER IT sit for a few so ill post my findings as they come should hav new pump in next week and fuel cit off relay will b in by 16th april hope i can ride again soon

1988 GL 1500
2002 Ultra Classic
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 09:25 PM
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I spent many years turning a wrench and there are four basic steps in a repair. 1) Verify the problem. Recreate what brought the customer in. 2) Identify the problem. Through diagnostics determine what is causing the problem. 3) Repair the problem. 4) Verify the repair. Could be a road test.

It is important to accurately diagnose. In the case of a 1500 suspected fuel delivery issue, two tests I would perform is fuel pressure and pump battery voltage. This being an intermittent condition test equipment will need to be hooked up and bike ridden with it in place.

Remove factory fuel line between pump outlet at tank and filter. Replace with fuel line with tee installed to hook up low pressure fuel pump gauge. Tape your gauge to the top shelter to monitor on your ride. Run a length of small diameter fuel line from tee to your gauge using caution not to pinch, chafe or place near excessive heat sources. I would remove the battery cover, run it down, out and up to gauge. Be certain there are no leaks before riding.

Remove your pump positive lead from top of sender. Install a female spade to 2 male terminal. Reattach pump wire and make a jumper wire to the last spade and run that to top shelter or pocket area. You will have your test light or volt meter where that can be also monitored while riding. Negative lead to something common.

J.D.

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