GL1500 petcock conversion - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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I have read all the posts on this issue from 2011. There seems to be no clear winner. My mechanic want to put another new unit in $135. Can someone break down the parts needed for contverting to a manual shutoff and parts needed for 12v elec conversion? I know the gentleman from Ireland can get some in a couple weeks but my bike is in shop now, and i would rather get away from rubber parts, Hey Rudy still prayin brother

smoke/co detector good for 6 years..check mfr date on back. will churp once for battery or six years are up
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 05:14 AM
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Why not simply bypass the petcock altogether? Several members of the fprum have done just that and are not reporting any issues.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:19 AM
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gaswing wrote:
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Why not simply bypass the petcock altogether? Several members of the fprum have done just that and are not reporting any issues.
You could do this for a short time as in waiting for a rebuild kit from Wexy.
The purpose is that if the engine stalls out or shuts down by the BAS as in a tip over,
that the fuel will stop flowing to the engine.
An Electric valve with a tip over switch would be the best option.

Stu
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John 14:6 Psalm 118:19-29
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 10:07 AM
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newday777 wrote:
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gaswing wrote:
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Why not simply bypass the petcock altogether? Several members of the fprum have done just that and are not reporting any issues.
You could do this for a short time as in waiting for a rebuild kit from Wexy.
The purpose is that if the engine stalls out or shuts down by the BAS as in a tip over,
that the fuel will stop flowing to the engine.
An Electric valve with a tip over switch would be the best option.
Stu, wouldn't the engine stop in a tip over anyway due to the spark being cut off & fuel pump stoppedby the BAS? I think the fuel petcock is for when the bike is parked & fuel does not flow to the carbs, flooding the cylinders. When I installed my electric valve, I disconnected it with the biking running & the engine ran on with the fuel in the line & carbs keeping the engine at an idle for several minutes....-Rich


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 10:23 AM
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Redeye1620 is correct !

The winner is the man with most tools !
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 10:30 AM
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Thank You Smeden.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 01:11 PM
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The electric cut-off conversion is very simple to install and sits neatly next to the fuel filler box where the vacuum unit used to be.

I got the idea from this web site:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/

(I hope it is alright if I mention a fellow HondaBBS albeit Valkyrie)

You can search there for petcock conversion and get all the details. I do not have access to my bike database from here otherwise I would give you all the nuts and bolts needed for the conversion (truely not many pieces).

Total cost was close to US$30.00-$50.00 (can't remember for sure but it was a lot cheaper than getting the new one fixed). This includes thecopper fuel linefittings. No rubberfuel line changes needed and you end up with a few extra hose connections.

If you do not already have an auxillary electricalcircuit setup on the bike you would have to install a relay somewhere hooked upto the auxillary fuse circuitso that may add a little to the cost. (You'll need relay and 5 amp fuse and a little wire - See Rudy's writeup on auxillary wiring).

Since this topic keepscoming up I am going to have to figure out how to take pictures and show everyone just how clean this install looks. The only thing you have to remember is to plug-off the vacuum line that went to the fuel petcock in the first placeonce you get the new electric oneinstalled.

One advantage to this new systemthat no one mentions is thatif you hook this up to a switch itmakes a very good security device as well.When it is shut-off no fuel gets to the engine and the fuel in the carbs is just enough to get the thievesabout 2-blocks down the road. Don't ask me how I know.

I hope this help even a little bit. I have really enjoyed this system and the added security it brings to my ride.

Best to keep the rubber side down and the bike between you and the pavement
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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I read in another post that you ground the pump to a good ground and +12v wire to access fuse side . Your absolutely positive a relay has to be installed and if so does the relay have a rating and do I get one from autozone or such

smoke/co detector good for 6 years..check mfr date on back. will churp once for battery or six years are up
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 04:49 PM
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Goldwingman;
I can guarantee you that you do not have to have a relay to make this work. The extremely small amperage needed to keep this valve open is next to nothing. Using the fuel pump circuit was recommended by the Valk guys. I just decided to make it a security device and wanted a separate electrical circuit. That way I have more to track down when something goes wrong (just kidding).
This is a real simple plug and play (almost) switch.
The valve I used was:
http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html
It needs two 1/8" to 1/4" brass hose connections and 2 1/8" close nipples. I got one straight and one 90° angle hose connection so I could sit it right as the fuel line drops down into the carbs.
You could do this this afternoon if you had access to Dan Marc and Home Depot. Most of the plastic can stay on but the seat has to come off.



Best to keep the rubber side down and the bike between you and the pavement
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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danmarc sent this item 79-AFC1231412 by mistake, they said it will work. The in/out ports are on the side of the round black housing which is the diameter of an oreo cookie.

smoke/co detector good for 6 years..check mfr date on back. will churp once for battery or six years are up
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