Replacing GL1500 brake lines with stainless steel lines - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing GL1500 brake lines with stainless steel lines

I have a 98' GL1500 SE. I decided to replace the brake lines with stainless steel lines. I know lots of you guys have replaced yours, but there seems to be little on the forum here as to the specifics of doing it. I'm looking for ideas on how to loosen the brake line connection between the metal and rubber line on the front/rear interconnected system that goes to the left, front caliper.



This is the connection. It's on the right side of the bike. It's mounted to the frame above the engine.



Here's another picture taken a few feet back to give a better perspective of the location.

I've bent a 10mm flare nut wrench that I can now slip onto the flare nut. However, there's very little room to turn the wrench. I can hold onto the 17mm fitting on the rubber hose side with an open end wrench. I've heated the fitting with a mini-torch and sprayed it with penetrating oil, but so far I've had no success breaking it loose. I've been thinking of cutting the rubber hose I'm trying to replace so that I can slip a closed end, ratcheting Gear-head 17mm wrench onto the rubber hose end. Even if this works, I'm not too confident that I'll be able to re-tighten the flare nut to the new stainless steel line. Does anyone have any other ideas?








\'02 750 Honda Shadow Spirit
\'94 GL1500 ASPY 45K miles (my son rides it)
\'98 GL1500 SE 81K miles (I plan to sell it! ;( )
\'06 GL1800 ABS 24k miles




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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 09:25 PM
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I just removed the bolt holding the bracket, and bent the metal line down and outward. Made changing the line a breeze.

I also removed the air duct in the right side of the fairing for more space...
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1997 GL1500 SE Pearl Sapphire Black
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Silicon Sam,
Did you have have the front fairing off the bike too?

\'02 750 Honda Shadow Spirit
\'94 GL1500 ASPY 45K miles (my son rides it)
\'98 GL1500 SE 81K miles (I plan to sell it! ;( )
\'06 GL1800 ABS 24k miles




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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 09:47 PM
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No, not at all. I want to say I took off the sub air filter, and right fan and right air duct. Just a couple of screws each.

I did not even tackle the rear line.

1997 GL1500 SE Pearl Sapphire Black
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I'll tackle it again later this week.

\'02 750 Honda Shadow Spirit
\'94 GL1500 ASPY 45K miles (my son rides it)
\'98 GL1500 SE 81K miles (I plan to sell it! ;( )
\'06 GL1800 ABS 24k miles




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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 10:17 PM
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Did the front SS line make a noticeable difference in anything?

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 10:39 PM
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Be really careful with flare fittings, they all seem to be made of something about as soft as lead. I have damaged them on cars before using an expensive name brand flare nut wrench of the proper size. Now whenever I need to loosen or tighten a flare nut, I put the wrench on it, then take a small pait of ViseGrips and clamp down on the wrench. This makes the wrench fit very tightly on the fitting, so it doesn't distort it. The wrench returns to normal when you remove the ViseGrips.

I have gone with SS lines on a couple of sportbikes, they made a minor difference, not sure it was worth the hassle of having to deal with them. SS lines are like a saw blade, they will cut through anything. You need to keep them completely isolated from any part of the bike. They will damage any part they rub against.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2012, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got around to replacing the original rubber brake line that goes to the left, front caliper with a stainless steel line. I didn't have to bend the steel line that comes up from the rear master cylinder. But I did remove the fan on the right side of the engine and the duct from the right side. One of the first things I did was to bend a 10mm flare nut wrench. I had to heat and reheat the wrench a couple of times to get the correct angle. I used a MAPP gas torch to heat the wrench to red hot to bend it.



I also realized I could get a closed-end 17mm wrench on the rubber brake line. I disconnected the brake line at the left front caliper and pulled the line up through the front fork. The 17mm closed end wrench easily slipped over the banjo end of the brake line. The 17 mm closed-end wrench I used is a swivel-head, ratcheting GearWrench. I have an entire set, both metric and SAE. They have a fine 5 degree ratcheting mechanism. They are one of the best tool investments I ever made and I highly recommend them for anyone performing work in tight quarters. Here's a close-up view of the GearWrench on the end of the rubber brake line after I had removed the brake line.




Here's a picture of the 10mm flare nut wrench on the flare and the GearWrench on the brake line before I got the connection loose. I placed a vise-grip on the far end of the flare-nut wrench for leverage.


One more picture to give another perspective. You can see the rubber brake line dangling off to the right.


After installing the new stainless steel lines and bleeding the brakes, I decided to take a sledge hammer to it. I read somewhere on this forum about placing a weight on the rear brake pedal and leaving it overnight to push through any remaining air. I haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet to test the new stainless steel lines, but when I do, I'll post back here with a review. By the way, I purchased the stainless lines from VencoWings. The lines are coated a thick vinyl covering which should keep them from acting like razor blades.






Attached Images
File Type: jpg sledge.JPG (88.8 KB, 132 views)

\'02 750 Honda Shadow Spirit
\'94 GL1500 ASPY 45K miles (my son rides it)
\'98 GL1500 SE 81K miles (I plan to sell it! ;( )
\'06 GL1800 ABS 24k miles




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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jlbc212 View Post
I finally got around to replacing the original rubber brake line that goes to the left, front caliper with a stainless steel line. I didn't have to bend the steel line that comes up from the rear master cylinder. But I did remove the fan on the right side of the engine and the duct from the right side. One of the first things I did was to bend a 10mm flare nut wrench. I had to heat and reheat the wrench a couple of times to get the correct angle. I used a MAPP gas torch to heat the wrench to red hot to bend it.



I also realized I could get a closed-end 17mm wrench on the rubber brake line. I disconnected the brake line at the left front caliper and pulled the line up through the front fork. The 17mm closed end wrench easily slipped over the banjo end of the brake line. The 17 mm closed-end wrench I used is a swivel-head, ratcheting GearWrench. I have an entire set, both metric and SAE. They have a fine 5 degree ratcheting mechanism. They are one of the best tool investments I ever made and I highly recommend them for anyone performing work in tight quarters. Here's a close-up view of the GearWrench on the end of the rubber brake line after I had removed the brake line.




Here's a picture of the 10mm flare nut wrench on the flare and the GearWrench on the brake line before I got the connection loose. I placed a vise-grip on the far end of the flare-nut wrench for leverage.


One more picture to give another perspective. You can see the rubber brake line dangling off to the right.


After installing the new stainless steel lines and bleeding the brakes, I decided to take a sledge hammer to it. I read somewhere on this forum about placing a weight on the rear brake pedal and leaving it overnight to push through any remaining air. I haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet to test the new stainless steel lines, but when I do, I'll post back here with a review. By the way, I purchased the stainless lines from VencoWings. The lines are coated a thick vinyl covering which should keep them from acting like razor blades.


sadly can'y see any pictures in your post.....
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pippomaranga View Post
sadly can'y see any pictures in your post.....
All my pictures on the forum disappeared when the forum switched format. I sent you the pics via e-mail.

\'02 750 Honda Shadow Spirit
\'94 GL1500 ASPY 45K miles (my son rides it)
\'98 GL1500 SE 81K miles (I plan to sell it! ;( )
\'06 GL1800 ABS 24k miles




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