Soft brake pedal/ poor braking, GL1500 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Need some help, I bought this bike back in February. been going thru everything to get it ready to ride. I can't seem to get the brakes right. I have had to take all 3 calibers apart & clean them up. Pistons froze up on all three. Anyway, I have bleed the rear brake & front left 2 times now. I can't find any air in lines but you have to push the pedal almost all the way down for brakes to start working. Brakes will not lock up at all. The front brake works fine. I am starting to think maybe I need to tear the rear master cylinder down & go thru it. Could that be causing a soft pedal & poor brakes? I have been using a Mighty Vac to bleed brakes also.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 11:24 AM
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Are the rotors within thickness specs?
Are you using new pads?
Did you clean the pistons up when you took the calipers apart?
Are the pistons pitted?
Sometimes you will need to release the air at the line out at the master(bench bleeding) before bleeding the system. Use that point as a bleeder valve first the bleed the rest of the system.
Yes you may need to pull your masters and clean them, well advised if the rest of the system was that bad. There are the tiny return ports in them that need to be cleaned with a wire from a wire brush or the smallest welding tip cleaner. If you don't clean them the brakes will not release and you will burn/warp rotors and pads will wear out fast.

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John 14:6 Psalm 118:19-29
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+2008 Cabernet Red ABS/Airbag bought 6/2013 @16,000
+1983 ASPENCADE Barn find @36,000 to be sold
+1976 CB750K6 @25,000 was Dad's
Previous bikes
-1999 GL1500 ASPENCADE Red Sold barn find restored
-1999 GL1500 SE(@57k)(totaled by cagger @105,000) Feb 2013
-76 CB750K Red(new) sold @ 45k
-75 CB750K Blue(new) 9,000 mi Before cousin totaled it.
74 CB450 Burnt Orange(new) 9,000 miles sold
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply,
Yes, all pads were replaced with EBC's
The rotors are fine, very little wear.
The pistons were rusted but cleaned up nicely, no pitting. I even bought 2 new pistons & did not need them.
Should I get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder or just clean it up real good?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 02:56 PM
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EBC ? , - dont now them , but if your brake pedal travels more than an inch or so , (with heavy pressure) , you migth still have air in the system !

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 05:17 PM
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"Should I get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder or just clean it up real good?"
Depends how many miles on it. Put that in your profile and keep it updated or update it in each post.
Sometimes you can get away with just cleaning and reusing, sometimes not. @$15-$30 for a kit.

Stu
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John 14:6 Psalm 118:19-29
CMA Wings of Eagles-Escondido, Patriot Guard Ryder
+2008 Cabernet Red ABS/Airbag bought 6/2013 @16,000
+1983 ASPENCADE Barn find @36,000 to be sold
+1976 CB750K6 @25,000 was Dad's
Previous bikes
-1999 GL1500 ASPENCADE Red Sold barn find restored
-1999 GL1500 SE(@57k)(totaled by cagger @105,000) Feb 2013
-76 CB750K Red(new) sold @ 45k
-75 CB750K Blue(new) 9,000 mi Before cousin totaled it.
74 CB450 Burnt Orange(new) 9,000 miles sold
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-08-2012, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for everyone's reply. I was sure hoping not to have to tear this thing back down again! Oh well that's what you get for buying old used bikes!
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-08-2012, 07:12 AM
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mine did the same thing. try pumping the brake pedal and then hold it down with a screwdriver wedged under the foot peg, leave it over nite and see if you get a solid pedal. I don't know why this works, but it does.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-08-2012, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will give it a try.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-08-2012, 09:47 AM
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There is a trick for the GL1500 rear brake setup and Bleeding. There are other posts where I have explained this but here you go.

The 1500 front brake cable is very long and does some twists and turns. So you bleed the brakes always do the front first if you don't do the front first you are just wasting your time. After the brakes are bled (by the way to do it right you need one of those one man bleeder bottles from the auto parts store usually for around $10.00) you put the bottle back on the front brake push a little fluid through the bottle then put something heavy on the rear brake pedal (I use a sledge hammer it works great) Leave it overnight you will usually be surprised in the morning to find air bubbles in the fluid. They just seem to work themselves out overnight. Tighten the valve back up and see how your brakes are.



One thing it is always good to bleed the front brake also. Check the color if its not pretty clear bleed them. If the fluid gets dirty it can plug up the return hole. If that happens the brakes will work one time but will never releasethe pressure and hold your wheel locked tight untill you release the pressure which of course means afterwards you have to bleed your brakes anyway so why not save yourself some trouble.




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