GL1200 ignition system - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 06:08 PM
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pdbro wrote:
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pretty sure PGs are N/A new for the 1100, if 1200 is the same deal, i'd get spares
The 84 is the only 1200 with the pulse generators in the rear like the 1100 and although they have the same function they're not interchangeable. Plus they're N/A for the 84 too.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 06:16 PM
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Ken Bergen wrote:
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pdbro wrote:
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pretty sure PGs are N/A new for the 1100, if 1200 is the same deal, i'd get spares
The 84 is the only 1200 with the pulse generators in the rear like the 1100 and although they have the same function they're not interchangeable. Plus they're N/A for the 84 too.
Don't know how long they will be available but just this week I ordered and received a set of pulse generators for a 1200. C$105 + taxes
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 06:28 PM
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tricky wrote:
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Don't know how long they will be available but just this week I ordered and received a set of pulse generators for a 1200. C$105 + taxes
That would be for the 85-87. For the 1100 and 84 1200 they're NLA.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 08:01 PM
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Ken Bergen wrote:
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tricky wrote:
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Don't know how long they will be available but just this week I ordered and received a set of pulse generators for a 1200. C$105 + taxes
That would be for the 85-87. For the 1100 and 84 1200 they're NLA.
Yes forgot to mention 85 Aspy
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 11:19 PM
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While the ignition system is probably ok, the 1200 is well known for charging system problems. I would check the stator and the R/R per the manual, and check ALL the white plastic connectors in the wiring, from the stator to the R/R. If you find anything burned, cut out all the connectors and solder the wires together. Also check the R/R itself for excessive heat. It is normal for it to run pretty warm, but it it is hot enough to burn you from just a momentary touch, something is wrong. Since you have an '84 with a 350 watt stator, hopefully you will not have the problems I had with my '85 LTD with the 500 watt stator.

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies folks, really appreciate it!
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 08:23 AM
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Ken Bergen wrote:
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As gaswing said just ride it.
Your ignition components have lasted for 28 years and there's no reason to expect them to fail now.
Good suggestions all, but I like this one the most.......

There are simple maintenance items that you could look out for but I wouldn't start replacing parts just because they might fail. Go ride! Enjoy!

2012 Gl1800 Trike w/Hannigan Kit. 16000
2001 GL1800 ........ 73000 Miles
1989 GL1500 ...... 133000 miles and climbing

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 03:44 AM
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Just want to mention that 1984 GL1200 pulse generators are in fact mounted in a difficult to access location on the engine (requires swing arm removal), but, the failure rate of 1984 pulse generators are almost non existent compared to the failure rates for 85 - 87 pulse generators which are mounted directly in the intense heat of the radiator. Not certain, but, I'm guessing the reason for the better lifespan of the 84 pulse generators could be in their location which is in a much cooler spot behind the engine.


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A place for GL1200\'s to gather.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 11:21 AM
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Sorry just jumping on here, I too just got an 84 and like yourself I'm planning a big ride but to Seattle this summer. I too have been trying to figure out what else to replace and I have just done the alt conversion too. I replaced the maintance items,belts, hoses, plugs, coolant, t-stat,oil and some wires. Other then that I need to get it on the road and see what else it needs or doesn't?

Ron
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1986 Honda 700F VFR 39000miles
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 01:27 PM
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Don't forget to check brake pad thickness, change clutch and brake fluid and make certain that you properly grease the rear wheel splines with moly 60 lube. Brake hose condition ( I use braided stainless steel hose) because 30 year old rubber brake hose may have cracks and weak spots. Make sure you have extra fuses for all electrical circuits and it would be wise if you disassembled, cleaned and tightened all electrical connections, because, doing it on the side of the road in the dark is a real pain. Thank goodness Tricky was riding with me when my electrical connections failed as it took two people to fix the darn thing on the roadside at night. You should also check all wheel bearings for smoothness, if any roughness felt then change the bearings before you leave. Final drive lube is often overlooked, but, without proper oil level the driveshaft can fail. This will get you started as I am certain there are more items that you can check. Good luck.


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