GL1500SEY Throttle Cables Problem - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2012, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Guys

I am new to this forum.

This is my first post and I realise it will need transfering to Technical Forum.

The background is as follows:-

1. I decided to replace the existing Kuryakyn grips with Show Chrome Heated grips.

2. I had to remove old throttle tube as no obvious way to remove chrome cover on grip.

3. Removing the throttle cables from the old tube damaged the tube so cannot be used again.

4. Removed air cleaner/case to gain access to other ends of cables in order to be able to slacken cables to refit new tube. No adjusters there, only nuts that can be undone to slacken the cables.

5. Fitted the cables to the throttle tube and tightened nuts at carbs.

6. The throttle will open but I cannot create any free play nor get the throttle to spring back to close.

NB The adjuster at the handlebar does not seem to make any difference whatsoever increasing or decreasing the tension so perhaps I need a new cable. The bike is 12 years old.

I have spent 4 days rechecking my work, searching the web, reading posts. I have also read 3 workshop manuals, but to no avail.

I have book a biking holiday which is due to start on 28 September so need to fix before then or I've wasted my money.

2 related issues arise:-

a) how do I fit the push cable to the cruise mechanism?

b) how do I remove the metal curved piece from the handlebar switch mechanism after removing the knurled nut.

Here's hoping one of you kind people can help me! This is the first time I have been stumped in 12 years of working on bikes.

Cheers

Paul
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2012, 02:52 PM
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Hi Paul. Was the new throttle tube OEM or aftermarket? Could you have kinked the cables while doing the work?
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2012, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your prompt response SabreJoe

I got a non-Honda mobile mechanic to check my work and he thought the connections etc were ok and he could not find any kinks.

The new throttle tube came with the Show Chrome Heated grips and is stated to be made for this model. However, the mechanic noticed the diameter of the new tube (on which the cables lay) is slightly larger than the OEM (34.2mm compared to 30mm) so he suggested I order new Honda grips/tube. I am waiting for these to be shipped from europe to uk.

I would be surprised if the tube is the problem as http://www.cruisercustomizing.com gives one positive review for these grips.

Paul
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2012, 03:51 PM
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Query: Without the cables installed, does the new throttle tube move freely at the bar (assuming no grips installed yet, and that you've got the OEM throttle tube)? (some will have annoying burs from manufacturing that will cause drag - I usually run a polisher through the tube's bore and offer a little silicone grease to the bar - rather slick feel)

For your related item "b)" The metal curved piece at the grip should be threaded... it'll spin out for ya-- replacement cables MUST have the same bit fitted to them

What year are you working with? all should be pretty similar for all of the SE series...

Just for diagnosis I would sugest kinda backing up from where you are and ensuring that the cables are all moving freely, and having a good look at the grip-end of things since there must have been quite a bit of trauma there to knacker the throttle tube.

It would help to look at the "Mixer box" for some indication of additional trauma -- this little bit is on the Left side of the bike under the inner fairing above and forward from the reverse lever. You can follow the cruise actualtor's cable into the box. This little box houses the trottle cruise cancel switch for the SEs and also has input from your grip's cable... it's possible to bend these up with some tugging, and one of the cables that you loosened at the carb is fed from this box - if it's popped loose there or kinked - you'd have some of the symptoms you describe...
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2012, 03:57 PM
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happyrider wrote:
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...
the diameter of the new tube (on which the cables lay) is slightly larger than the OEM (34.2mm compared to 30mm)
...

If you're measuring the cable-draw groove, this would represent a bit over 6.5mm more cable that you would need (combined from both cables) to accomodate a 180-degree wrap.



If you think about how tight these cables were to begin with, did you have 6mmof cableto spare with the adjusters fully compressed?



(seems that my prior post would be irrelevant at this point)
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2012, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Satan

I have greased the handlebar and the new non-oem tube runs smoothly with no cables connected. Also, if I connect the pull cable only the tube does spring back, so seems to me that as the tube will not return automatically with both cables attached at grips that there is too much tension somewhere.

Mine is year 2000. I knackered the old tube because I did not realise the ends near the carbs need to be removed from brackets to create sufficient slack - I broke the plastic which held the nipples.

I have found the "mixer box" you refer to - can you expand on what I should do in more detail and give some indication of what is inside the box(eg just wires or electrical as well)? Presumably I would need to remove front fairing to gain access to that box?

I think I have answered your second post.

Re removing the metal bend at the handlebar presumably this is only possible if the end at the carb is removed?

Paul
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 08:50 AM
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Yeah you do need to have the cable assembly "in hand" to get that little elbow free at the grip.

That mixer box is a bit of a 3-legged bell-crank where the 3-rd leg is allowed to "pull" only without interfering with your grip cable's operation... the idea is that the cable from your grip runs to the mixer box directly, and the solid-side of the belcrank connects to a short bugger of a cable that passes to the carb linkages. (one of the cables that you disconnected at the carbs). The 3rd cable input is from your cruise actuator and is limited to increasing tension on the that short carb-actuating cable. (This is similar to some of the older automotive "throttle" cable setups that would allow a thottle cable to pull-up for increased idle speed whilst still allowing the accellerator pedal to increase over that set idle value)

If you're thinking about replacing throttle cables, you will ned to have at that mixer box - not so much fun wedged into the corner between inner and main fairings like that. I'd offer insight, but I usually end up bleeding, and have only worked on one of the newer-style mixers ( I think?)

As far as your binding issue, I was suggesting that there may've been something a bit tweaked in the mixer and giving you a bind in your throttle motion (Since you'd disconected at the carb, and tugged through the mixer - loading the bellcrank without even knowing that it was still "in the loop").

Given that you can get the pull cable to run would kinda indicate that your issue is likely related to some other friction (push sied), or just simply trying to stretch the cables too tightly around the larger drum/longer cable path.

Do you have the in-line cable length adjuster fully collapsed? I didn't see any mention of collapsing the in-line adjuster (throttle cable -- should be within a few inches of that elbow ...)?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Satan

I can't see my adjuster at the handlebar end makes any difference whatsover.

What I don't understand about this adjuster is that we have 2 threads separated by a gap with the adjuster in between and the cable beneath. Surely all the adjuster is doing is moving from one thread to the other.If we undo one locknut move the adjuster to it, the other locknut then has to be tightened up to the adjuster and so the length does not change.I'm clearly missing something here although I do appreciate the outer cable ends are fixed as are the inner cables.

Paul
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 10:43 AM
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If the cables are still stiff when you test them straight as possible, one of them is kinked or has a broken strand inside. You seem to have ruled out the pull cable, so I would say the return one is the problem.

Dave Heffernan.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to everyone who has commented so far.

I have ordered new cables and throttle tube.

Can someone please tell me what problems, if any, I am likely to encounter connecting one cable to the cruise control cancel switch (mixer box) and an easy way to connect both nipples at the carb end (due to strong spring effect).

Many thanks

Paul

BTW I am surprised no one appears to have posted a write up on replacing throttle cables for the GL1500
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