1998 1500 Drive line vibration, I think - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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1998 1500 Drive line vibration, I think

Guys,

Looking for some help to diagnose a strange vibration. At about 2100-2200 RPMs in any gear and sometimes when up shifting I get kind of a buzzing vibration. It kind of feels like there is a large bee in the middle of the bike. If I drop below 2100 RPMs, go above 2200 RPMs, or pull the clutch in the vibration goes away. It is not in the pegs and feels like it is more in the bottom of the seat. It is light but annoying.

I pulled the entire drive line today and could not find anything out of the ordinary. The U-joint looks good (I replaced it about 20,000 miles ago). The splines were not dry.

The only thing I saw that struck me as odd was that I had what looked like brake dust on inner rim of the side of the wheel that faces the final drive.

Any ideas? I don't think it is the alternator dampeners as it goes away if you pull the clutch in.

Thanks,
Ed

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 11:30 PM
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Still IMO the alternator dampers are exactly the first thing to replace "just for drill".

The rubber becomes hardened and non-resilient.

~ John


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 06:04 AM
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Have a closer look at the UJ. Twist and pull it for signs of play or roughness.

Dave Heffernan.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 06:16 AM
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Like John said replace the alternator drive dampener rubbers.

Have you been lubricating all the drive splines yearly? From the motor output shaft, drive shaft, to the rear wheel?
If the dust you referred to is red it is lack of moly paste on the drive splines but your words didn't make clear if the brake dust on inner rim was inside the drive hub or not or color. Black would be brake dust.

Stu
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 06:42 AM
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Just a thought....carb synchronization? Another fellow had small vibration from his alternator. He simply pulled unit back enough to CHANGE POSTITON of drive impeller in rubber blocks....vibration disappeared. ....papasmurf

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heffo View Post
Have a closer look at the UJ. Twist and pull it for signs of play or roughness.
I pulled the UJ yesterday, no signs of play or roughness. It was in good shape. I replaced it in July of last year (18,000 miles ago).

Quote:
Originally Posted by newday777 View Post
Like John said replace the alternator drive dampener rubbers.

Have you been lubricating all the drive splines yearly? From the motor output shaft, drive shaft, to the rear wheel?
If the dust you referred to is red it is lack of moly paste on the drive splines but your words didn't make clear if the brake dust on inner rim was inside the drive hub or not or color. Black would be brake dust.
All of the splines are lubricated with Molly often, from the output shaft to the rear wheel. This was last done when I did the UJ in July last year. The dust was black and was on the wheel rim where the large rubber boot from the final drive meets the wheel rim. I don't seem to recall seeing that much dust there in the past, but then again, most of my miles since then have been loaded down pulling a Bunkhouse that we had.

Quote:
Originally Posted by papasmurf View Post
Just a thought....carb synchronization? Another fellow had small vibration from his alternator. He simply pulled unit back enough to CHANGE POSTITON of drive impeller in rubber blocks....vibration disappeared. ....papasmurf
Just asking, if it were a carb sync issue, wouldn't I get the buzz when the bike is in neutral and I took the motor to the RPM range where I am experiencing the buzz?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AZgl1500 View Post
Still IMO the alternator dampers are exactly the first thing to replace "just for drill".

The rubber becomes hardened and non-resilient.
The rubber dampers seem to be the common theme here. I replaced them October 16th of 2010 (36,000 miles ago) when I put a HO alternator in from Ken Hemming. I later replaced the HO alternator with a Compufire in April of 2012 (27,000 miles ago) but did not replace the dampers at that time.

I will replace them, then report back. Thank you for the help guys.

Ed

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 09:53 AM
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The dampeners get oil on them and that causes them to harden and yes 3 years they can be hard.

Stu
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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I ordered the new dampers this morning.

If it\'s got two wheels, I\'m in trouble.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 12:02 PM
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Ah, a good thing IMO.

When that Compufire alternator went in, for me, it would have had new dampeners with it. The cost is neglible.

But, you have the fix "IMO" ordered so it won't matter. Apparently you and the bike are on a one-to-one relationship and maintenance is great in your hands.

~ John


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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 08:40 PM
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If it vibrates at a certain RPM regardless of speed it is not the drive line. The shaft turns a 2.83 times wheel speed regardless of engine RPM or gear position. If you have a vibration at X RPM it is engine related, If the vibration is at X speed, no matter what gear or RPM then it is drive line or wheel related.

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