Notes on 1100 timing belt replacement - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Notes on 1100 timing belt replacement

I have an '83 Aspy, which makes a bit of difference to the Chilton manual's instructions.

The job can be done easily enough with just loosening the radiator, as stated in the manual.

You will need a 10mm ratcheting stubby, modified as below:
Drill a hole in the centre, tap it 5mm or 6mm, to fit a short screw. Tap for what you have, or 5mm, as that leaves more meat in the wrench. Drill a 6mm hole in one end of a piece of 1" strap, I used aluminium, I had it to hand.

The rest of the tools should be in the average 'box.

The job: Remove the fairing lowers, but, on the lower screw, just loosen the screw, and remove the bolt holding the bracket, and radiator. Then remove the horn bolts and upper radiator nuts (acorn). Leave the horns dangle, if you wish. All 10mm heads.
Remove the sparking plugs. 18mm deep.
Remove the right forward engine guard straps, upper and lower. No need to touch the rear lower nut. 10mm
Remove the outer timing cover bolt. Then, with your new tool, fully loosen the inner timing cover bolt. You cannot remove them in situ, they must be removed with the cover, and replaced the same way. Again, 10mm.
With a 19mm open end wrench, turn the crank bolt until the "UP" mark on the cam sprocket is, well, "UP". Then, more slowly, make sure the ARROW on the cam sprocket is pointing directly to the mark on the rear timing cover, very much to the outside, it is.
Check the other side. Do NOT assume the last monkey in there assembled this the right way!! Mine was one tooth off on the right bank. There may be a slot cut on the sprocket, this is not the timing mark. Mine had two on one sprocket. Ignore these (unlike the last monkey to work on mine...).
Loosen the two bolts holding each timing tensioner. Push it away and lightly tighten the outer bolt on each. Remove the belt. Note that the cams are now free to move, and the right one may indeed move. Just make sure the cam is held in the correct location when replacing the belt, and that you check the timing before putting any cover back on.
Put the left belt on first, making sure you pull the bottom run (opposite the tensioner) tight when you put the belt over the cam sprocket.
The same with the right, except the top run is pulled tight (again, opposite the tensioner). Check the timing. If correct, proceed to loosen again the tensioner outer bolt, while lightly pulling the cam to tighten the opposite belt run. On both, this will mean pulling the cam (10mm bolt) clockwise. No need to turn the engine, actually, don't pull that hard. Just get the belt run snug, so that the tensioner can remove the slack with just the spring tension. Tighten first the outer bolt, then the inner on both tensioners. Check the timing. If correct, put on the covers. The right cover will make you swear, but it can be done, even by people with gargantuan hands (like me)[no, really, I wear 3XXX gloves, which are snug]. The inner bolts must be put in the cover first, then the cover offered up. The left will slide in with little difficulty, the right will take a bit of pushing and shoving, but it will go in (move the guard away to give room). Tighten the outer bolts first, making sure the cover is lined up well, so the inner bolts can be installed. Remember the bolt hole is a pedestal, and the right inner bolt can be a pain.
Reinstall the rest, in the reverse of removal.
Ride on.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 08:21 AM
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Thanks for that. I personally find it easier to remove the radiator altogether, although it's a bit messier draining the coolant.
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