89 1500 idle surge after #60 slow jet installed? - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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89 1500 idle surge after #60 slow jet installed?

My 1989 GL1500 had the hesitation off idle issue. I pulled the carbs and installed the #60 slow jets. Hesitation off idle issue solved. However, now I have the idle surge issue???? Idle surges about 100-200 RPM +/-.
I have changed the slow jets (#60), spark plugs (stock NGK gapped at .035) synched the carbs and lubed the idle adjuster by the gas cap. Air filter is clean but it doesn't matter if the air cleaner is in or out, it still surges. I did adjust the pilot screw to 2 turns out rather than 1 1/2 turns per instructions by member agnogel (see attached image, he has been a huge help).
I did check vacuum lines and replaced a couple that were suspect. Maybe I missed one? The 2 under the carbs with the 90 degree bend I replaced just because they seem to give everyone problems.
I am leaning to the pilot screws but not sure where to start adjusting, in or out? Or maybe I need to look in another area? I am now in search mode for answers.
I also have read that the coolant sensor has been an issue for some that has fixed issues.
I just don't know why I didn't have a surge and now I do. Did the new jets cause this?
Any help/feedback is appreciated.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 10:50 AM
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The Rubber Isolators (between carbs and intake manifold) are a common source of air leaks, especially on a bike as old as yours. The leaks sometimes come and go depending, which causes erratic idle.

If you're not going to replace the Isolators, then try re-installing them with a light coat of grease (ex: K&N Air Filter Grease) on the mating surfaces, to seal.


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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I will give that a shot. I was careful to make sure those were very tight but I didn't put anything on them.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 1sweetlover View Post
I will give that a shot. I was careful to make sure those were very tight but I didn't put anything on them.

You can make them as tight as you want, but unless you remove, replace with smaller ones, or make the spacers in them smaller, you will not get them to clamp any harder. I normally either replace the spacers with nuts or grind down the spacers, but only a small amount. IF they need more I just replace the isolators.

If you can still move the clamps around when they are 'tight', you need to do the above.


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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 12:27 PM
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surging

Check out the post on page two of this section titled "Surging problem solved".
Surging problem solved - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums


Not sure if it applies but it's worth a read.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't think about that. I will remove and make the spacers smaller. Good point.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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I did read that post. I will go that route of making the spacers smaller doesn't work.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 07:02 PM
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Whatever else you do, if you're going to be in there that deep please replace the rubber insulators and all 4 vacuum hoses coming off the carbs! And, remove what you can of that idiotic thin rubber mat that traps the heat that cooks all of them. That mat in the single stupidest thing I've ever seen on a motorcycle!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 07:14 PM
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What is the purpose of that rubber mat? I could never figure it out.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 07:29 PM
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What is the purpose of that rubber mat? I could never figure it out.
My thoughts for the rubber mat usage are echoed the same to keep heat from rising. As we know the cooling system is borderline when challenged on hot days, any interference between radiator and fan operation above engine for removal of heat however small would compound the problem. The less the fans run the better everything is battery included with OEM alternator.

Second item would be for fuel line vapor lock which is a real problem of carb equipped engines, the low 2 psi pump of the 15 more so. This can be evidenced with fuel line choice, thin walled from pump to filter then it goes to a very thick walled hose after filter the rest of the way to the carbs. This area happens to be right over the mat. Further evidence is that the carb heated coolant riser is thermostatically controlled shutting off carb spacer heat before engine reaches operating temperature. The engineers here are clearly heading off a vapor lock scenario. With the enclosed design there is zero natural air movement under the shelter when standing still which can be correlated to underhood temps of automobiles.

Keeping heat in close would also aid in quickening engine warm up times equaling better MPG, lower emissions and better cold driveability as a side note.

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