Jetting question on 76Gl 1000 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2014, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Jetting question on 76Gl 1000

Hey guys im a newby and im hoping you can help out on a few questions. I've searched these forums a bit and cant seem to find an answer.

First off im rebuilding a 76gl 1000 ltd. I cleaned carbs and synchronized them. I put in replacement jets from a kit I bought (size 130) from randakks and am running straight pipes. Bike fires up perfectly and idles strong but when I drive it it falls flat (no/low power) when advance throttle. I dyna ignition and coils. Checked the plugs and they are white (suspecting lean condition).

What size jet should I be using with straight pipes?
How many raising washers should I use to raise main needle?
Anything else im missing?

Thanks, Tony. Please help me...
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 04:58 AM
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Welcome to the forum Tony

As to jetting with straight pipes you will have to try different size jets and do the plug test until you find the best color of the plug. There aren't many members that run straight pipes on the wings so an answer may be longer in coming than just doing your own testing.
Even racers use mufflers of some type to give the needed back pressure.

Stu
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 07:29 AM
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Did you check the advance mechanism behind the points plate? It should move freely. A 130 main jet with a stock needle may cause issues. Last I knew, Randakk doesn't sell jets and most folks don't need to rejet when altering exhaust. Intake side is different.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 07:42 AM
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randakk doesn't sell jets, 130 too big, get 120's. did you change all the rubber bits including in the cutoff assembly?

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 08:15 AM
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Yeah I'm with the others. Go back to a 120 and your original jets if you have them. Aftermarkets are not dependably correct.

Tom

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. After looking back you're right, I got the jets somewhere else and the complete rebuild kit from Randakks. I was just trying to give it some extra power especially since I was going with straight pipes. I did check the advance but I'll check it again. As for all the rubber bit yes, everything that came in the kit. I think I'll try the 125 and use the spacer washer to raise the main needle, if all else fails I'll return to stock and figure out a better exhaust option. I'll post when I get it running correctly, thanks again for the input guys.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, I put in the 125 jets and shimmer the needle. When I did I found the needles were sticking as they were gummed up a little still. Re-cleaned them and it runs pretty good. It hesitates a little under 1500 rpm when coming off a stop but has good acceleration everywhere else (from what guess is good for this bike) with minimal backfiring when retarding the throttle, I suspect once I get straight pipe extension off header with baffles this should clear up. Idle now sticks around 3000 rpm after running it a bit so im going to do a complete carb clean again and run some gumout. Hoping this takes care of her.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 07:27 PM
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IF you dont really want straight pipes ,you might like the sound of using herley davusin take offs . May folks use a set of HD mufflers . A little more tone than a stock wing muffler but not obnoxious loud . they can generally be had for 20,30 bucks . Sometimes less . They require you to build an adapter "S" pipe fronm the header to the muffler and a rear mount braket. If you use the search function here on the forum I beleive there are some photos .

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 07:30 PM
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Is throttle actually sticking? A vacuum leak will give you indication that throttle is sticking.
All engines need some back pressure to run best. It can be anything from mufflers to specific lengths of pipes off the cylinders (for a planned rpm range)
One thing to watch as well running any engine with open pipes enough open breathing area can warp valves on cool down because the cool air drawn in the exhaust hits those hot valves. Snort caps in the pipes can help that and increase back pressures

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