Need help - GL1500 wont idle after carb rebuild - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Year: 1988
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Model: GL1500 Champion Trike
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Thumbs down Need help - GL1500 wont idle after carb rebuild

I've got a 1988 GL1500 that had the off idle hesitation since I bought it in 2013. This summer the hesitation got worse, so thought I would clean rebuild the carbs and rejet them with 60 pilot jets and 158 secondary jets. I don't have any experience with these carbuerators, so I purchased a used set on ebay and cleaned and rebuilt those. Idle mixture screws are set at two turns from soft seat. I also replaced all the vacuum hoses, including the ones under the heat shield. Got the newly cleaned/rebuilt carbs installed and everything hooked up. Turned the key and hit the starter and the engine started right up.

Now the problem. The engine is running at 2700 rpm (cold). Tried to reduce the idle with adjuster knob near the gas tank filler with no effect. Pulled the air box back off and checked the carbuerator end of the idle adjustment cable. The screw is now backed out to the point it does not make contact with the throttle linkage. Still runs at 2700 rpm. I have not yet sync'd the carbs nor set the idle mixture. Will those adjustments bring the idle down? Do I have another problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 02:46 PM
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There is no doubt it has to have a leak somewhere. IF both throttle plates are closed the air has to be getting in elsewhere for the engine to even run, say nothing about 2300 RPM. I would spray some carb cleaner around the carb area. When you hit the right spot the engine will change. Did you replace the boots that fit between the carbs and engine? It is common for them to get hard and not seal. The clamps on the carbs have stops to keep from 0ver tightening. If the boots get old and you tighten the clamps you might have just hit the clamps stop and the boots are loose on the engine or carbs. Very common issue.

Edit: Another thought. Are you sure the chokes are hooked up properly?
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, the boots were replaced with new ones.

The choke cable is hooked up correctly. That is the first thing I checked.

Also, the choke linkage on the carbs is connected exactly like the linkage on the old carbs.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 03:14 PM
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Don,
There are only two possibilities. Either air is coming by the butterflies, (as it should) or it is entering in another way. (wrong way) If the butterflies are closed it has to have an air leak somewhere. No doubt about it. Maybe try the carb spray to find the air leak?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I'll check it out tomorrow. Too late to get back in the shop tonight.

Thanks.

Don
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 07:01 PM
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Could be the throttle cable adjustment is too tight allowing no slack. Could be an accelerator pump linkage issue. Could be a way out of sync issue. Could be sticking throttle linkage in carbs. Could be a cruise actuator issue. Could be a combination of items.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2014, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Here's what I've checked so far, this morning.
1) Tried the carb spray around the carbs and vacuum lines, with no change in the running of the engine.
2) Checked that the throttle cables were adjusted correctly according to the manual and that the butterfly valves were opening/closing with no binding..
3) Checked that the choke cable was adjusted correctly according to the manual and that the linkage was not binding anywhere.
4) Checked that the accelerator pump linkage was not binding. Accelerator pump was rebuilt when I did the carb rebuild.

I've got the carbs off the bike again (gets easier the more times you do it). I plan to go through them again and recheck the internals and linkages. Before I do that, I think I'll re-install the original carbs. If I have the same problem, the only thing different would be the new vacuum hoses/connections; problem would have to be there. If I get back to the original hesitation problem, it would have to be in the rebuilt carbs. Will post back after all that.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2014, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Re-installed original carbs, now back to my original problem of hesitation.

Looks like the inability to adjust idle problem is in the rebuilt carbs.

Last edited by donspicer; 12-20-2014 at 02:38 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2014, 02:50 PM
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You need to sync your carbs..not sure why no-one has'nt stressed that..its so important, especially after changing carbs. Rather than rebuild the set I had I grabbed another set already done from a friend whose a Goldwing Mechanic and gave him my set. It stumbled off idle and would'nt idle very good. We took the right lower fairing off hooked up the carb sync instrument and sure enough the carbs were way out of sync. as we balanced them we had to alternately keep turning the idle down until finally they were balanced and the rpm was steady at 850. No more stumbling off idle,more power, better mileage and steady idle rpm. The bonus is quicker warm up time off the choke. My bike is a 93 GL1500 SE.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2014, 03:43 PM
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Did you read post # 6....??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky65 View Post
You need to sync your carbs..not sure why no-one has'nt stressed that..its so important, especially after changing carbs. Rather than rebuild the set I had I grabbed another set already done from a friend whose a Goldwing Mechanic and gave him my set. It stumbled off idle and would'nt idle very good. We took the right lower fairing off hooked up the carb sync instrument and sure enough the carbs were way out of sync. as we balanced them we had to alternately keep turning the idle down until finally they were balanced and the rpm was steady at 850. No more stumbling off idle,more power, better mileage and steady idle rpm. The bonus is quicker warm up time off the choke. My bike is a 93 GL1500 SE.
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