Battery drain - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 06:03 AM
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I thank all for the advice but have done it all. bike off I have a 12v drain with neg cable off and reading between that and the post.
have disconnected all after market add ons and even removed all the fuses one at a time. I'm interested in the diode theory. is there any way to check the diode only. the regulator checks out and the system is charging 14.5 or so at idle. when the bike sits for 10 or twelve hours it does not start. after 8 or 10 the charging system is working so hard it heats up the connectors from the stater and solenoid.
Alex, Like Ken said you should be testing amperage between the battery post and cable end. Not voltage. That is meaningless. It is possible to have a battery with an internal short that drains itself but that is rare and easy to find. Just disconnect the battery when you park the bike. If it sits and holds a charge good by disconnecting then it is not the battery. If it is charged full when you disconnect it but goes dead sitting disconnected the battery is no good.
When you talk of the "diode theory" are you talking about the diodes in the regulator rectifier? If so you can check that with a voltmeter set to AC volts low scale. Usually on a car it would be checked at the alternator but on your bike check it at the battery. Put the red on positive and the black on neg like normal. With the engine running it should read less than .5 volts AC. That is point 5 volts AC. (.5) I suspect you will not have an issue there if you are getting 14.5 volts DC running but who knows.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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battery has been tested and shows good.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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the battery does not drain if I disconnect it.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 09:28 AM
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alex,
Read post #11 and retest for high battery current. While reading current pull fuses until the faulty circuit is found. If after pulling all the fuses you still have high current, look for after market items that may have inline fuses wired directly to the + side of the battery or input to the fuse block. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Charlie
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 11:33 AM
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alex,
Read post #11 and retest for high battery current. While reading current pull fuses until the faulty circuit is found. If after pulling all the fuses you still have high current, look for after market items that may have inline fuses wired directly to the + side of the battery or input to the fuse block. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Also if all the fuse tests fail to show an issue, then unplug the regulator rectifier. If the issue is resolved it probably is the regulator rectifier.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 06:52 PM
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Alex, I don't know what kind of meter you were using but it probably looks something like the one below. You need to have it on the milliamp scale when making your tests for current draw when the bike is off. As shown on the picture, start on the highest milliamp scale and work you way down to where you get a reading. If you measure over about 5 milliamps then there is something wrong. Start pulling fuses and disconnecting things as described in the above posts until you find where the trouble is.


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Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former.
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