GL1500 Cruise Control Still Not Working...... - Page 7 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #61 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:58 PM
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Chris,
Don't be too hard on yourself. If you have been around the automotive industry we all have been in a situation like this. It comes with the territory. Look at the bright side. When you get this figured out, and I bet you will, you can be the "cruise control Guru."
My thoughts are that you are right. The service manual does not have all the answers. It can't. You wouldn't be able to lift it. Some things just take experience to solve. Like what you are experiencing now. When I had issues like this I would usually do exactly what you are doing. Get frustrated and ready to quit. Then it would bother me so much I would go at it again. Lots of frustration but a good reward when you figure it out. It's extra hard for you with little equipment.
Some of my oddball issues turned out to be bad connections. When you test with a meter minimal amounts of current flow through the conductor. You get normal results. When you try to use the cruise much more current is present and the high resistance drops voltage to a level that it will not function. You seem pretty smart and I am probably not telling you anything new but sometimes you need to test the circuit with a load.
Pick something very much at random. Say....the cruise set button and circuit. There is a
bad wire. Maybe just a single strand holding on by a thread. Could be a switch that has poor contacts. When you test it with your meter 1 /1000 th's of an amp flow through the circuit and all checks out well, as it is able to handle that current. Now when you set the cruise 1/2 amp flows through the circuit and no joy. In a case like that a test light might show the issue as it supplies a greater load. It would be like "I have 12 volts with my meter but the light won't come on." This might be the issue with cruise set, front brake, rear brake,throttle switch etc. Might even be an intermittent problem. What if the ground for 4th and 5th gear is poor or jumps around when you go down the road. You might have to "mock up" some of those things to find the issue. That is ground the 4th, 5th gear by jumper wire. Send 12 volts to the appropriate wire in the module directly from a "hot" source. I would purchase the module as a last ditch effort only after I was completely sure everything else is fine.
To add to the difficulty is trying to communicate via this crazy machine. The guys here are good guys and willing to help but it is much more difficult to explain things some times that it is to actually do them. I think through this whole ordeal you have come to recognize the logic of the thing. That is it has input (set etc) safety, and output signals. With that knowledge, good information and persistence you can do this. Then make sure you check back anytime someone has an issue with cruise control. You could be the best.
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post #62 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Chris,
Don't be too hard on yourself. If you have been around the automotive industry we all have been in a situation like this. It comes with the territory. Look at the bright side. When you get this figured out, and I bet you will, you can be the "cruise control Guru."
My thoughts are that you are right. The service manual does not have all the answers. It can't. You wouldn't be able to lift it. Some things just take experience to solve. Like what you are experiencing now. When I had issues like this I would usually do exactly what you are doing. Get frustrated and ready to quit. Then it would bother me so much I would go at it again. Lots of frustration but a good reward when you figure it out. It's extra hard for you with little equipment.
Some of my oddball issues turned out to be bad connections. When you test with a meter minimal amounts of current flow through the conductor. You get normal results. When you try to use the cruise much more current is present and the high resistance drops voltage to a level that it will not function. You seem pretty smart and I am probably not telling you anything new but sometimes you need to test the circuit with a load.
Pick something very much at random. Say....the cruise set button and circuit. There is a
bad wire. Maybe just a single strand holding on by a thread. Could be a switch that has poor contacts. When you test it with your meter 1 /1000 th's of an amp flow through the circuit and all checks out well, as it is able to handle that current. Now when you set the cruise 1/2 amp flows through the circuit and no joy. In a case like that a test light might show the issue as it supplies a greater load. It would be like "I have 12 volts with my meter but the light won't come on." This might be the issue with cruise set, front brake, rear brake,throttle switch etc. Might even be an intermittent problem. What if the ground for 4th and 5th gear is poor or jumps around when you go down the road. You might have to "mock up" some of those things to find the issue. That is ground the 4th, 5th gear by jumper wire. Send 12 volts to the appropriate wire in the module directly from a "hot" source. I would purchase the module as a last ditch effort only after I was completely sure everything else is fine.
To add to the difficulty is trying to communicate via this crazy machine. The guys here are good guys and willing to help but it is much more difficult to explain things some times that it is to actually do them. I think through this whole ordeal you have come to recognize the logic of the thing. That is it has input (set etc) safety, and output signals. With that knowledge, good information and persistence you can do this. Then make sure you check back anytime someone has an issue with cruise control. You could be the best.
Thanks for the encouragement Redwing.

I will have a step back, take a deep breath and start over. Maybe when I find the answer it'll be something simple? Sorting the transistor in the ECU proved that last week....
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post #63 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 06:30 PM
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Just take the bike to a shop and they'll have it back to you in a day, working as it should. That should be worth a few pounds.
Now that's funny.

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post #64 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Now that's funny.

Yes! H. Ha. Ha.

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post #65 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 04:15 PM
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Chris I had the same problem and all checked out OK electrically.
But when I removed my front brake and clutch lever, I instantly found my problem. I had two worn bushings on the clutch lever and one on the brake lever.

I replaced the brake lever bushing then replaced the clutch lever piston bushing and then finally the clutch lever itself, and my cruise works just fine now. I didn't feel like reading all the above pages, but one sure fire way to tell if this is your problem is to inspect those bushings if they are out of round or oval shaped they will not make good contact with the micro switches

also you can try to push outwards on your hand levers while trying to engage the cruise control this will tell you right away if your bushings are shot and need replacement and BTW, I would never add a shim to make contacts with any micro switches that's an indication of worn bushings on your levers!

Dennis

Last edited by AZgl1800; 07-19-2015 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Edited for Emphasis... great post
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post #66 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dmill1220 View Post
Chris I had the same problem and all checked out OK electrically.
But when I removed my front brake and clutch lever, I instantly found my problem. I had two worn bushings on the clutch lever and one on the brake lever....................................
Thanks for the advice.

This was one of the first things I checked some time ago. I even removed the micro-switches and replaced them with toggle switches, I then took the bike out for spin and operated the toggle switches, but still - no joy!

I do know that the micro-switches are making full contact and operating properly but, as a matter of course, I may remove the levers again, just to ensure there isn't any further issues!
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post #67 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Right. Just an update

I have decided to give up, at least for the foreseeable future, trying to get the cruise control working.

I think I will have to accept that it is never going to work.!

Maybe, during the winter months, i will give it another go, but to be honest, I am so disheartened and fed up doing the same old tests, and getting nowhere !!

Thank you to all who have offered their help and advice !


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post #68 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 01:21 AM
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Have any of your tests proved that the bike knows when it is in 4th or 5th gear?

GL1800A 2006
Previously:
GL1500SE \'98
Harley Fatboy 2004
Triumph Rocket Touring 2010
Honda Valkyrie 2002 (fantastic!)
Pan European ST1100
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post #69 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 02:52 AM Thread Starter
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Have any of your tests proved that the bike knows when it is in 4th or 5th gear?
Yes. Covered those tests as per the attachment !
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 4th and 5th gear tests.pdf (192.7 KB, 9 views)
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post #70 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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Where is C323 connector .... Help...

I am still trying to sort out my cruise control issues and am currently going through the tests listed in the ETM, (test shown below), but I cannot find connector C323 so does anyone know where it is? My wiring diagram lists C94 as the clutch cruise cancel switch? Very confusing...!!!

Test D: Clutch Cancel Input Test

1. Disconnect C323 (clutch cruise cancel switch). Turn the ignition and cruise switches ON, and the engine stop switch to RUN. Check for battery voltage at BLK/YEL circuit.

If yes, check clutch cruise cancel switch and GRN/BLU circuit for an open between C323 and C33. Replace/repair as necessary.

If no, service BLK/YEL circuit for an open.
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