Crapola! Another Rusty Plug. - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
I've been on the phone to cylinder head repair shops and the ones near here don't really have any M/C experience. I kind of got a sense that if the head is cracked like I think, no one will be able to fix it anyway.

So about the sealers. How are those spendy ones applied? Do you pour them in the radiator just like the cheapies?
Who knows Dennis. The thing might just seep a drop every 10 minutes, 20 minutes???
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post #32 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I decided to run the machine up to Hell's Canyon, and say to hell with the rusty plug.
However, I just drained the oil and this is what I see.
Someone please tell me my bike has just taken a liking to fancy coffee drinks.
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File Type: jpg Oil foam.jpg (270.7 KB, 48 views)

Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #33 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 06:11 PM
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Dennis,
been tooooo long since I saw my 1200s opened up.

What am I looking at?

~ John


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post #34 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 06:12 PM
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I get foam like that from my 1500 during oil changes if I let it drain a long time. It's near the end of the draining and it creates Itty-Bitty bubbles.
If there were water in the oil the whole mess would be colored.


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post #35 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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I get foam like that from my 1500 during oil changes if I let it drain a long time. It's near the end of the draining and it creates Itty-Bitty bubbles.
If there were water in the oil the whole mess would be colored.
So, I'm not to worry about it? I see Ken has tagged into this response as well. That really is what I want to hear, but with the rusty plug, I'm becoming gun-shy I guess.
I did notice that the final drive oil foamed up too when drained into that oil.

John, what you are seeing is a pan full of foaming engine oil. The rest of the pic is washed out because I exposed for the oil.

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post #36 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 09:09 PM
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I think you should use some of that bars leak it should hold a long time for you if you do it before it gets worst.

I used it in mine so I could ride till winter I was able to rinse a lot of the copper back out.

It is the Sodium silicate that makes it work.

I said use some of it cause you don't need to use the whole bottle.



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Originally Posted by Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Sodium silicate can be used to fill gaps within the head gasket. Commonly used on aluminum alloy cylinder heads, which are sensitive to thermally induced surface deflection, and can be caused by many things including head-bolt stretching, deficient coolant delivery, high cylinder head pressure, overheating, etc.

"Liquid glass" (sodium silicate) is added to the system through the radiator, and allowed to circulate. Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100–105C, sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a remelt temperature above 810C.

A sodium silicate repair can last two years or longer. The repair occurs rapidly, and symptoms disappear instantly. This repair only works when the sodium silicate reaches its "conversion" temperature at 100–105C. Contamination of engine oil is a serious possibility in situations in which a coolant-to-oil leak is present. Sodium silicate (glass particulate) contamination of lubricants is detrimental to their function.



Sodium silicate solution is used to inexpensively, quickly, and permanently disable automobile engines. Running an engine with about 2 liters of a sodium silicate solution instead of motor oil causes the solution to precipitate, catastrophically damaging the engine's bearings and pistons within a few minutes.[12] In the United States, this procedure was used to comply with requirements of the Car Allowance Rebate System (CARS) program.[12][13

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post #37 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 09:11 PM
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Have you considered trying a re-torque of the head bolts ? Easy to do and not much to lose.

Also, I think it's always a good idea to use anti-seize compound on spark plug threads...especially on aluminum heads.

I hope it's an easy fix for ya.
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post #38 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 11:05 PM
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I did the Bar's Leaks and the re-torque at the beginning of this season when I had a head gasket leak on my right side. Coolant leaked only when bike was started and cold, no noticeable coolant loss, bubbles at the gasket and steam from hitting the exhaust. I used 1/2 of the 11 oz. container. Heavy Duty, Stop Leak, with water pump lube, Original Pelletized Formula. It's still holding, re-torqueing is a hairy thing to do.


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post #39 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 11:43 PM
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Dennis,
In the old days of Detroit Diesel they had wet sleeves that would leak coolant in to the oil. When it was run it looked way worse than yours. What you can do very easily is each morning before you start the bike screw out the plug only far enough to get some flow out of it. If you get oil screw it back in. If you get coolant let the drip continue until you get oil. When the engine sits over night the coolant will migrate to the bottom. It should be the very first thing you see if the bike sat on the center stand all night or even tipped slightly toward the drain plug so it is the lowest point. Those old Detroits ran forever like that. As long as it doesn't accumulate to a point where it gets too much.
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post #40 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-03-2015, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtwowheel View Post
I did the Bar's Leaks and the re-torque at the beginning of this season when I had a head gasket leak on my right side. Coolant leaked only when bike was started and cold, no noticeable coolant loss, bubbles at the gasket and steam from hitting the exhaust. I used 1/2 of the 11 oz. container. Heavy Duty, Stop Leak, with water pump lube, Original Pelletized Formula. It's still holding, re-torqueing is a hairy thing to do.


Scott
That was an external leak without combustion pressure on it.
What's hairy about re-torquing a head?

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