Dealer Claims Full Synthetic in Goldwing is Bad? - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amsoil Dealer View Post
I have used Rotella in my other bikes, but found that Amsoil gives me much better shifts, runs cooler, and has rust and corrosion protection. Rotella and Mobil 1 do not have rust or corrosion protection. I have left in my engine 3 times what Honda states the oil should be change. I took a sample of the oil, and had it tested. The oil came back still good, 45% effective. So that is why I use Amsoil.
Shields at 45% captain, we can't take much more of this. Do you actually expect us to believe an engine oil has no corrosion or rust protection? I was born at night but not last night. As you have been informed you can pay your dues and register as a vendor if you want to sell this stuff.

With no God over the state, the state then becomes not the defender of liberty but the definer of liberty.


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Last edited by DaveO430; 09-01-2015 at 06:28 AM.
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post #32 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77Pinto View Post
Not true.


Just because the dealer(s) that you have been to have techs that you think might know less that average, its un-fair to make the comment you made. I go to two dealers in my area, and the techs know these bikes very well. Maybe its that you think you know more? I will ask one of the techs I know and see if Honda school has a class: "All Honda Motorcycles, less the GoldWing".





Honda makes (has made for them) and sells oil MADE FOR THESE BIKES!!! In my 30+ years of riding Hondas, always using Honda oil, NEVER an oil related issue!!


Sure, save a few bucks with cheap-o crap oil, and cross your fingers!!




Bill
That is unless you have them do a warranty repair that requires engine removal. I wonder how you would feel if they scratched up your 2012 near mint bike. They more often don't know or, worse, don't care. They know very little compared to this forum. Every problem will have a solution on this and most other forums. The answers are here!

As for oil, keep it changed at regular intervals. 4K on just about any oil made with today's technology probably retains 4 times the modifiers of oil made 30 years ago. Oil and tire threads should be deleted as soon as they are posted. They all just go nowhere but in circles.
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post #33 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Peppi-Le-Pew View Post
Oil and tire threads should be deleted as soon as they are posted. They all just go nowhere but in circles.
I can't much disagree with that.

With no God over the state, the state then becomes not the defender of liberty but the definer of liberty.


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post #34 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amsoil Dealer View Post
I have used Rotella in my other bikes, but found that Amsoil gives me much better shifts, runs cooler, and has rust and corrosion protection. Rotella and Mobil 1 do not have rust or corrosion protection. I have left in my engine 3 times what Honda states the oil should be change. I took a sample of the oil, and had it tested. The oil came back still good, 45% effective. So that is why I use Amsoil.

As Dave just said, this is your absolute LAST CHANCE AT REMAINING A MEMBER OF THIS FORUM.

You will NOT in any way make any claims for Amsoil in this forum, you are a blatant Vendor, and it is against the Forum Rules which you have NOT bothered to read.... or you would NOT be making statements like this.

There is no way an oil is going to make a water cooled engine run cooler period. The thermostat takes care of that job.

Think what you want about Amsoil, but I told you before, I used to be an Amsoil Dealer and all you are doing is spouting off the same damn rhetoric that they pushed on me back in 1981.... and that is against forum rules.

IF you want to be a Vendor, do what I already told you, Purchase a Support Sponsor membership and have at it, you can advertise in your own private sub-forum, but never, ever in any of the regular forums.

I normally do this with a PM, but you have ignored my PMs, so this one is in Public ON PURPOSE.

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post #35 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 12:20 PM
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Maybe you have not explained it clearly to the salesman? In my experience they sometimes need it explained in little words. The ones that do not listen anyway. I am good with ones that listen and respect others.

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post #36 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 03:59 PM
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Oil Documentation: synthetic vs. dyno

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpeters549 View Post
Maybe you have not explained it clearly to the salesman? In my experience they sometimes need it explained in little words. The ones that do not listen anyway. I am good with ones that listen and respect others.

It was explained in very clear language further back.
and in a PM...

all that aside, the cost of having an 'oil analysis' done negates the "savings of using any synthetic oil".

the oil needs to be changed out at regular intervals to negate the effects of combustion and water condensation products.

I'm not against synthetic oils, I have it in the F-150 and in a '07 Pontiac Vibe... both because I was told to do it that way or else.... and SWMBO'd gets the last laugh...

The F-150 has been on syn oil for 229,000 miles, so who am I to say no to that?

The Vibe has been on syn oil since it was new and the title is in SWMBO's name....

neither vehicle seems to use any oil between changes, so I'm not knocking "success" as it were.

Oil discussions are fun, and we all have a chance to learn a lot.

I have two threads to another forum that documents the effects of many different types of oils... and in the end, that user could not make a claim that synthetic is "god's saving grace" for the oil to use.

Here is his 1st thread and the start of his documentary:

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...il-Jaso-MA-oil


Here is his 2nd thread and the end of the documentary and his conclusions.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showt...2-Oil-Analysis


and here is an explanation of the different Viscosity ranges.


http://widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

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post #37 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 04:32 PM
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synthetic oil is fine for 1500 and 1800 wings, friends of mine use it, although it maybe advisable to use caution, with the earlier wings, as it may cause leaky seals. I tried it in my 1200 and indeed had some seals go out. Some say that maybe the seals where bad already, which may be true, but I never had an issue beforehand.

I also felt the bike didn't run well on it either, but strangely after switching to a semi synthetic, it runs really nice.

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post #38 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 05:41 PM
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I've been using Mobil T-1 10w-40 full synth for +50k miles and no issues. I ride anywhere between 5 and 125 degrees and change oil between 6 and 7k miles. As I understand its the only oil used in my bike after the break in change, but I'll never know if it is better or worse or if any abnormal engine wear is occurring until its too late... I really don't foresee and issue and I'm not cracking the case to find out without good reason. On my previous bike I used Castrol GTX as somebody mentioned earlier but it had a dry clutch! Castrol GTX has friction modifiers and that is by definition energy conserving; Castrol only recommends its "Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40" for Goldwings, I would assume that is because we have wet clutches. Frankly the other rust preventative oils make me scratch my head as oil itself should be rust prevention by itself, but my wing isn't parked long enough for dust much less rust!

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post #39 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 05:45 PM
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If rust is forming inside the crankcase, there is a lot more wrong than just the "type of oil".

Any old garden variety oil of the proper grade and viscosity that does not have friction modifiers in it, will work just fine in our slow turning Goldwings. Change it often and go on

That said, some oils seem to work better with our transmissions.

~ John


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post #40 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 06:31 PM
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Folks interested in Oil topics should go to the Bob the Oil Guy website. Everything you'd want to know about oil and then some.

There is a difference in dino and synthetic motor cycle oil and it is primarily in the way they are formulated. For the purposes of our discussion Dino oil starts out as a base stock of 10 or 20 weight ( first number ) and then has additives added to it to make it work like a 40 or 50 weight oil when hot, ( second number ). Synthetic is the opposite, starts out as a 40 or 50 weight oil and then has additives added to make it act like a 10 or 20 weight when cold,

As the dino oil's additive package is used up it tends to thin, moves more towards the lower number and as the synthetic additive package is used up it tends to thicken, moves more to the higher number.

There has been lots of good work done over the years with respect to motorcycle oils, but it still boils down to use what the manufacturer specs and change it regularly. There are some advantages to using synthetic over dino, mainly in the two extremes - very cold and very hot. So when you first start your engine you'll get better lubrication and it won't burn off as much at higher temps.

So as a lot of things with bikes, use what makes you happy, the bike really doesn't care that much, just change the oil & filter regularly.

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