Dealer Claims Full Synthetic in Goldwing is Bad? - Page 5 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #41 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 06:42 PM
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The F-150 has been on syn oil for 229,000 miles, so who am I to say no to that?
You have ridden in my 94 chevy with 245,000 miles and I have always used whatever oil I happened to pick up in it, always in the proper 5w30 grade dino oil. It has never even had a valve cover off. Would you think a synthetic would have done better?

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post #42 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 07:53 PM
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You have ridden in my 94 chevy with 245,000 miles and I have always used whatever oil I happened to pick up in it, always in the proper 5w30 grade dino oil. It has never even had a valve cover off. Would you think a synthetic would have done better?
Nope, I think that falls under my caveat of:
change it regularly and it don't matter.

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post #43 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 09:21 PM
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I've been using Mobil T-1 10w-40 full synth for +50k miles and no issues. I ride anywhere between 5 and 125 degrees and change oil between 6 and 7k miles. As I understand its the only oil used in my bike after the break in change, but I'll never know if it is better or worse or if any abnormal engine wear is occurring until its too late... I really don't foresee and issue and I'm not cracking the case to find out without good reason. On my previous bike I used Castrol GTX as somebody mentioned earlier but it had a dry clutch! Castrol GTX has friction modifiers and that is by definition energy conserving; Castrol only recommends its "Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40" for Goldwings, I would assume that is because we have wet clutches. Frankly the other rust preventative oils make me scratch my head as oil itself should be rust prevention by itself, but my wing isn't parked long enough for dust much less rust!

Castrol GTX 10W40 does not contain friction modifiers. Some of the other viscosities of GTX do contain friction modifiers. GTX 10W40 has been spared because of its popular use in motorcycles with wet clutches.


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post #44 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 09:48 PM
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This is an oil thread. I just took in a Polaris Phoenix ATV for whatever it needed. This was my first experience with a Polaris machine. The oil recommended for these machines is strictly Polaris. These Polaris fluids have fancy names and are labeled and sold without a clue to what they are, or the viscosities that they are, or the API standards that they meet. Engine oil change kits are sold for these machines that include the oil filter, two quarts of oil, $50 and more. After 1-1/2 days of searching and talking with my friend who runs an independent shop I have settled on 75/90 gear oil for the forward/reverse transmission and rear differential, and any adequate MC motor oil for the engine, I'll use Castrol GTX 10W40. My friend said that he has come to the same conclusions and uses these oils in Polaris service all of the time. It would have cost over $100 to buy a filter, two quarts of engine oil, two separate quarts of lube for the trans and rear end for this little 200cc machine, according to Polaris. According to Polaris they have re-invented all vehicle fluids.......threaded nail them.


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post #45 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 09:55 PM
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Convenient advertising for Polaris

as long as the buyer believes them, they have it made.

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post #46 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 10:37 PM
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Convenient advertising for Polaris

as long as the buyer believes them, they have it made.

More rant, oil thread, right? I don't see how this is helping their "brand". This is greed at its worse. Frequent oil changes? I don't think so, not at $50 a shot for a 13hp machine. Scheduled oil changes? Maybe not. People using bad alternatives resulting in catastrophic failures, how can this be good for their reputation? Product loyalty and repeat customers, I don't see how this could even happen.


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post #47 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 10:40 AM
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Wow! This thread got ugly. But it's kinda par for the course on any automotive forum as well.


Only 2 reasons I am posting this is to say on a water cooled engine, yes the thermostat controls the temperature. But it is the COOLANT temperature that it regulates. Since coolant does not circulate into the crankcase, it is the oils job to cool the rotating assembly (crank and pistons). Thus the reason for oil coolers in some applications.


#2 I did my own big test on Amsoil in a Mitsubishi Montero I had years back. For 3000mi, I used Valvoline Dura-blend 5W30. Used the same pump at the same gas station for almost all fill-ups. No other changes were made during this time period of 6000mi. The first 3000mi section had 2 tanks that were pure highway. Otherwise, just back and forth to work...daily driving. I averaged 19.2mpg over that 3000mi.
Changed the engine, trans and rear diff over to Amsoil products. Covered another 3000mi, and tallied an average of 20.5mpg This 3Kmi stretch did not have all highway tanks involved. Just daily driving. Now, I don't believe the engine oil by itself will make much, if any, noticeable improvement in mileage. But when that vehicle was traded in, the dealer appraiser thought it stalled while stopped because of how smooth it felt. So he proceeded to make that lovely starter grind noise.
That Montero and a Nissan I had were my guinea pigs to see for myself if that stuff made a difference. And in my experience, it has.
I will absolutely not condemn the idea of use whatever and change it regularly. Because it works just fine. I run an auto repair shop, and know that is the case. We all have our personal preferences, and sometimes the emotions of those preferences interferes with what our fingers end up trying to translate onto the keyboard. As well as, how what is written is perceived by the end reader.


For the Wing, I did not notice ANY difference with Amsoil 10W40 vs the PO's Rotella. Although I did not use an infrared thermometer on the differential before and after changing, I would bet that would probably show a difference there though.
So just keep smiling and enjoy the ride
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post #48 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 12:14 PM
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I am an Amsoil dealer, but mostly diesel automotive. I am new to Motorcycles. My father had a 1985 Goldwing, and always used Honda Oil. The engine blew in 2000, and he had to replace the engine. at 120,000 miles. After the break in period, he again ran Honda Oil. We tested the heat coming off the engine, at 240 degrees. He then switched to Amsoil, and after the first oil change, we tested the heat again. 190 degrees. So, in out little test, the Amsoil did decrease the temp of the engine. Nothing else was changed. I run Amsoil in all my bikes, and change that 9000 to 10000 miles, or once a year. So, that is why I used Amsoil. no that I am a Dealer, does what it is supposed to do. If it had not, then I would have no problem using another oil.
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post #49 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
It was explained in very clear language further back.
and in a PM...
I was being sarcastic. I could not see how you could have been more clear.

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post #50 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 02:26 PM
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I have absolutely no problems with documentary evidence.....
and yes, I am aware that the oil temps can get higher than the coolant temperatures...

experienced that on a 1965 Plymouth 4 speed tranny pulling a much too big trailer up in the Colorado Mountains one year. The next year, that motor had an oil cooler on it with a fan to help hold things under control.... I should have had a good pickup truck, but I only had one vehicle, a 383 CI, 330 hp 4 barrel hot rod that "can do anything I want it too"

If the PO has made it more clear in a documentary way, that the "Oil
temperatures will be cooler" with a synthetic, I would not have reacted as hard as I did.

But, I have been thru the Amsoil schools and I don't like their methods.

~ John


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