Dim static test light while setting timing - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 09:06 PM
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I can't believe that I am conversing with satan (small s). That's what I said, I just used less words, people say that I am curt and terse.


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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satan View Post
While I've not read the instructions for testing your ignition module, you've provided a great deal of information in your original post that describes what you're seeing.

If you thing about the circuit that you're testing, and how you're testing it something less that "full power" should be seen at the bulb...

Drawing on your background, this may not be entirely foreign. The circuit that you're working with looks like this (bike stuff in black, and your test in red):


(this is little more than an illustration of Redwing's post)
The parallel filament lamp test is intended to test things under a reasonable load (this helps to discover any extra resistances/poor connections in the circuit), so some of the available voltage will be dropped by other items in the circuit. An ignition point-set (in your case Dyna) is little more than a switched ground, and you're setting timing by when the connection to ground goes open...

Looking at my little sketch above, look at the "Dyna Unit" as an open connection (since this is when your test light would light). The voltage available to your bulbs will be reduced since the ignition coil is in the circuit. I don't know what bulb you used, but an 1157 bulb has a 13W and a 8.3W element that would present ~6Ω and ~20Ω at 13volts respectively (as an aside, resistance in a cold element is less than a fully lighted element, so these resistances are prolly still high for your test, but I'll continue). Placing the 6 & 20Ω in parallel. you're test rig presents a 4.62 ohm load into this circuit. Since the GL1000 coil's primary resistance is typically about 2Ω, the voltage that you'd see at your test-bulb would be only about 8.4volts (and since the filaments are not fully heated, the lower resistance thing I mentioned earlier, you're prolly seeing 8v or less here).

With ~8v across a bulb designed for ~14 (and compared brightness at 12v), you won't have a fully bright bulb at all. You can always grab a volt meter and measure the voltage that you're actually seeing across your test-rig too (My math'll be a little off depending on bulb used, connection and wire resistances and stuff, but it's in the ball park).

Either way, you're seeing a half lighted set of filaments, which is exactly as it should be... nothing to worry about here...

... oh, howdy neighbor, and welcome to the world's best GL resource, GoldwingFacts.com.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
I have been waiting for someone with experience with this system to answer but no one seems to chime in. As to the intensity of the light I would say amber is fine. The reason is at the Blue and Yellow wires you are seeing voltage after the coil. The coils are in effect resistors which will cause voltage drop and dim the light. If you use a ballast resistor that would add even more resistance to the circuit and dim the light. So in a nut shell I think you did good.
Dang! I hadn't even considered the resistance present at the coils and again the OEM ballast. DERP!! Shows you how excited I was to get her up and running.

I am now confident that my mileage is the result of a lean condition based on fuel starvation from a lame pump of out of spec float levels. So onto the carb rack this weekend it seems! Satan and Redwing, you have both been wonderful and informative in both of your posts, thanks!

And Satan, let's go for a scoot before the cold comes!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2015, 09:32 AM
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The reason (and easy solution if it bothers you) for the "dim" bulb is covered in detail on my Tech Blog: http://www.randakksblog.com

Use the various navigation aids or the search box there to find any information you might seek.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-20-2015, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randakk View Post
The reason (and easy solution if it bothers you) for the "dim" bulb is covered in detail on my Tech Blog: http://www.randakksblog.com

Use the various navigation aids or the search box there to find any information you might seek.
Randakk, I have poured over this AND your site over the last month and have learned an incredible amount from your meticulous cataloging. I will look at your Dyna Troubleshooting entry and absorb it.

By the by; thank you for such a comprehensive resource on my GL1000!
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